06-26-2017, 07:48 AM
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#1
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Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Bryan/College Station, TX
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Real Name: Roberto
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Member
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Bryan/College Station, TX
Posts: 209
Real Name: Roberto
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Any Welders in DFW?
Hi all, I'm putting this out there to see if there are any welders here, that live in the DFW area that can help me out.
I did something really stupid yesterday! I was trying to find a good ground point for my sound processor, and read that the rear seat bolt was a good option. Well, as I was trying to put the seat bolt back in, it was getting stuck. After cleaning and using a wire brush to clean, it was still getting stuck --- so stupid me, I was forcing it and the weld nut ended up popping off!
From what I've seen online, some people have cut out the section where the weld nut is,and welded in a new piece of metal, with new weld nut in place.
Any welders here in DFW that can help me out?
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06-26-2017, 08:59 AM
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#2
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Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Palmdale
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Quote:
Originally Posted by roborob1969
From what I've seen online, some people have cut out the section where the weld nut is,and welded in a new piece of metal, with new weld nut in place.
Any welders here in DFW that can help me out?
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Post a picture, that sounds like a really extreme solution. Should be able to tack weld a new weld nut on or even use a riv-nut.
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2014 sr5 premium bilstein 5100's 1.75", 17" method NV, LT285/70 falken wildpeak a/t3w, hids, full led swap, custom sliders
2013 ktm 500exc desmog, euro mapped, supermoto
1951 chevy 3100 bagged and body dropped in progress
IG: r.tinniste
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06-26-2017, 10:00 AM
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#3
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Member
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Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Bryan/College Station, TX
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Real Name: Roberto
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Member
Join Date: Feb 2013
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Real Name: Roberto
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I'll take a pic after I get off work, but this is very similar.
Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
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06-26-2017, 10:09 AM
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#4
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Elite Member
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Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Utah
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I've also had one weldnut come off on my '15 - one of the front bumper flange weldnuts came off. Poor welding. It appears that on these newer 4runners they're meant for one time use only. I have access to the back so I can re-weld it on. Depending on location it may be harder for you.
On my own vehicle - it would depend on location. I would seriously consider epoxy as an alternative. But you'd want to make sure it's the correct epoxy. Lots of two part resin glues are called epoxy. The good stuff is extremely strong.
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06-26-2017, 10:40 AM
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#5
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Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Palmdale
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Quote:
Originally Posted by roborob1969
I'll take a pic after I get off work, but this is very similar.
Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
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I would try a nutsert first. Cutting and welding in that spot sounds like a hassle. And if the nutsert doesn't work then cut it out and weld it.
Don't quote me on the thread size btw, I'm assuming is m8.
https://www.fastenal.com/products/de...et%20Nuts%22|~
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2014 sr5 premium bilstein 5100's 1.75", 17" method NV, LT285/70 falken wildpeak a/t3w, hids, full led swap, custom sliders
2013 ktm 500exc desmog, euro mapped, supermoto
1951 chevy 3100 bagged and body dropped in progress
IG: r.tinniste
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06-26-2017, 11:13 AM
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#6
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FWIW - if this is the bolt that holds the rear seat in place - I would not use a nutsert. They pull out pretty easily. It may not be safe in a collision.
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06-26-2017, 11:22 AM
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#7
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Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Bryan/College Station, TX
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Member
Join Date: Feb 2013
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jetboy
FWIW - if this is the bolt that holds the rear seat in place - I would not use a nutsert. They pull out pretty easily. It may not be safe in a collision.
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I was about to order a nutsert! Maybe in the right application it would work, but yes, this is one of 4 bolts that holds down the rear passenger seat -- so maybe a welded plate replacement is the best option. -- Or take the seat out
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06-26-2017, 02:03 PM
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#8
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Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Dallas (Carrollton), TX
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I've got a welder. My son(@Cruzadoblanco) would probably be happy to weld it up for you.
I'm in Carrollton.
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2012 Trail Edition, Salsa Red, MetalTech (Icon) Long Travel Rear, Panhard Relocation Bracket, Radflo 2.5" Extended Travel Front, LR UCA's, 17x9 XD wheels, Cooper S/T Maxx 285/75-17's (34"), 4.56 Gears, Wet Okoles, Weather Tech FLoor Covers, Canvasback Cargo Covers, Shrockworks Sliders, BudBuilt Hidden Winch w/ Warn 9.5ti, On-Board Air (using sliders as air tanks), Rigid D2's, RCI Skids, Body Mount Chop, Console Vault.
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06-26-2017, 02:16 PM
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#9
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Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Bryan/College Station, TX
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Member
Join Date: Feb 2013
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BigredTEX
I've got a welder. My son(@Cruzadoblanco) would probably be happy to weld it up for you.
I'm in Carrollton.
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Heck yes! PM'd
I pass through Carrollton on my way home from work.
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06-27-2017, 09:52 AM
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#10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by roborob1969
I was about to order a nutsert! Maybe in the right application it would work, but yes, this is one of 4 bolts that holds down the rear passenger seat -- so maybe a welded plate replacement is the best option. -- Or take the seat out
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Sounds like you've found a friend to weld it! I think they work great for some things. Just not for sheet metal in a pretty critical spot. Something like this welded or bolted in will be a lot stronger. They're generally called "washer nuts" http://www.shopjeepparts.com/round-w...nt-p-6964.html
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06-27-2017, 09:13 PM
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#11
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Member
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Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Bryan/College Station, TX
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Real Name: Roberto
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Member
Join Date: Feb 2013
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Real Name: Roberto
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jetboy
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Interesting!
To me, it seemed that the weld nut gave a little too easy, so this seems like a great solution for my application. Three other bolts, plus this solution, should be a good fix Thanks for the link!
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