Bingo. Worst... Dealer... EVER!! Seriously, nearly every experience there has been terrible. Totally wrote off the north store, I won't step foot in there again on principal. Been trying to give the south store a chance but done there now too.

How can you get $450 back is this from the dealer or from Toyota Corporate?

Why are pulling the RCI skids to change the oil? There’s access to the drain plug and a nifty little door to get to your oil filter.

Pretty much the same experience in Albuquerque.

A good question.

Yes, the canister filter can be reached through the RCI door. But everyone says it makes an oil mess when you try to get the filter canister out. I can see the canister but the opening is not directly below the canister, IIRC.

Anyway, for only $500 plus $100 of AN-10 hose and fitting parts and several days labor making a mount for the engine bay (trial and error fabrication), I have a Mobil 1 filter (or any compatible brand) sitting up above the left wheel well, behind the battery and power control box. If you don't have KDSS you can mount the remote filter down lower, just below the battery.

Baxter also makes a spin on oil filter adapter that uses a spin on filter below where the canister filter is. The filter fits above the RCI skid plate and I'm beginning to see the advantage of that now.

Agreed.
LHM sucks.
I can not figure out how they stay in business.
Treated me bad when I was buying the 4Runner. Salesman wouldn't even let me look at a Trail. Went to Mountain States to get it and they were great.

I stopped by Larry Miller on the way back to TX from buying a new to me 2000 SR5 in Idaho. Wanted to get the oil changed and have a driveline sound diagnosed. They sent me on my way saying everything checks out. As I'm down the road I look at the invoice and see they put 0W20 and later came to find out the noise was the third member on its way out. I felt dumb for trying to be prudent and taking it to a Toyo dealership. Interesting to see they have a reputation. I no longer equate a manufacture's dealership with the best service available for your car.

the proper way to know if the toyota oil is the same as the M1 oil would be using the oil lab test results sending both samples never used .

I noticed that the toyota oil @3K miles on vehicle odometer new had sludge under the oil fill cap ... after using M1 no sludge .. also the oil filter elements is like new after 7.5K miles .. oil level at oil change is not down any amount .. M1 0-20 wt ..

No mess here. With the Fumoto drain valve and a hose attached to the filter canister drain, I don’t get a drop of oil on the floor. I usually rotate the tires and grease the driveline while the oil drains so there’s nothing left to make a mess with when I remove the filter. I do like the convenience of a spin on filter but it’s not very high on the priority list.

When I drop the cartridge through the RCI window....I never use the bottom ''drain'' fitting. Just unscrew the cartridge and drop it straight down and out...no spilling or big mess and one less ''o'' ring to leak or change.

I left my wife's car overnight at Larry Miller Lexus in SLC. The employee parked it outside the fence by the street and came back later and stripped the interior. They even stole all of the door switch plates. Only a lexus tech would know that they're all a matching set. And you'll notice that all of the plugs were unclipped. A car thief who thinks he might get caught - they just cut the wires. Not a random smash and grab... And the dealership was super shady about the whole thing. They first repaired with used damaged parts. The car was in nearly new condition. Nothing fit well. They fawked up basically everything trying to repair it. Including simple stuff. Like the tinted windows - they tried to give it back without tinting the window that was broken. And we bought the car there - and had them tint the damn windows initially, so it's not like they couldn't figure out what tint film to use. They are by far the worst hacks I have ever been involved with. Even their own sales person told us not to have them repair it... should have gone through insurance and then subrogated the claim and had it repaired by a professional.

If you just had a crappy oil change - you're lucky.

Did you get the refund from Toyota or the dealer. I have declined my complimentary services as well so I'm very interested.

that is horrifying. what happened to the employee? prosecuted to the full extent of the law and permanently blacklisted, i'm hoping...

Mobil 1 0W20 vs Toyota 0W20

Resurrecting an old thread to the original topic with some interesting info. This guy, 540Rat is an oil guru. I read through a lot of his blog, it’s very long and comprehensive. He actually *tests* motor oils, instead of analyzing them, and ranks them. If you read his blog you will be enlightened. To get to the rankings go to the site and search for “Wear Protection Ranking List”. At about the 24th search instance you will find the list.

540 RAT - Tech Facts, NOT Myths

Of interest to 5th Gen owners there is another tabulation of 0W20 oils that he tested.
Search for “Eight 0W20 Oils Tested and Compared” to get to that list. What’s interesting is that (after Amsoil 0W20 Signature Series) the top three are:
1. 0W20 Quaker State Ultimate Durability, API SN, synthetic (gold bottle) = 124,393 psi
Its onset of Thermal Breakdown = 270*F

2. 0W20 Toyota Motor Oil, API SN, synthetic = 101,460 psi
Its onset of Thermal Breakdown = 255*F

3. 0W20 Mobil 1 Extended Performance, API SN, dexos 1 approved, synthetic = 100,229 psi
Its onset of Thermal Breakdown = 265*F

So you can see that although Mobil1 EP and Toyota are both great oils they are not the same.

Never any love for RP.

Amsoil is better according to his test .

5W30 Signature Series, produced 134,352 psi, and is ranked 2nd for oils “just as they come, right out of the bottle” (only Amsoil 0W20 Signature Series, was able to slightly beat it),