Anyone in the LA area have a recommended shop to do the install? Im getting ready to pull the trigger on one.

If you're down to drive up to Santa Clarita (still technically LA) the shop that installed mine is great. They've done a few of them now, so they are pretty proficient at installing them.

The shop is called Big John's Performance. 661-254-1611 ask for Rob and tell him Derrick with the red 4Runner sent you (he will give better prices if you say that, because I refer a ton of people to them).

Valencia CA Tires & Auto Repair Shop | Big John's Performance

EDIT: I just saw that you are in Santa Clarita, so they would be perfect for you. They've done all the work on my truck that I haven't been able to do myself. Steve who is the guy who does the installs is great, does meticulous work.

Awesome! If you dont mind me asking, how much did they charge you for the install?

Hi, one of the main reasons I got the SC was for trailering. I have had significant improvements: better pulling, less shifting, and actually improvements in MPG. Good decision.

I'll be honest, I don't know exactly because I usually save up a bunch of stuff for them to do, then drop off the truck for a few days and let them do it all. I would call over their, ask for Rob and then ask him for a price. Since they've done it before, he should be able to give you a price.

When I spoke to Magnuson they recommended Superchargers Online in Simi. That's where I'm likely going to do mine.

@Magnuson.
My friend has a 2006 gen 4runner 4.0 and wants to put a supercharger on his Truck. We have been looking high and low for a CARB(in CA) legal supercharger and in running circles, I found:
https://ww3.arb.ca.gov/msprog/afterm...o/d-488-40.pdf

It lists a part number for a 2003-09 4runner supercharger. Do you offer part number 01-90-40-011-BL?
Please let me know. Thank you.
Kevin

All sorts of updates... None good.

61k on vehicle now. SC installed at around 40k miles.

1. Transmission overheated multiple times up in Death Valley and the Eastern Sierras this past weekend. My buddies stock SR5 did not do so. It was warm on a slow climb in low gears (2Hi or 4Hi). Nothing close to as steep as what the vehicle can handle. Just going slow as it was a both bumpy/rocky and somewhat steep. It was basically a single lane dirt fire/access type of road. Vehicle was full of camping gear and 2 little ones. Nothing being towed. It was warm but not above 95 degrees. I kept going for a mile or so driving more gently after the first episode. No limp mode or forced stop (don't know if our trucks do so). Warning message was gone after leaving the truck sitting (engine off) for 20-30 minutes. Continued on up to the 8k foot summit without recurrence. On the second overheating I stopped immediately and the warning message was gone after a very short cool down, maybe 5 minutes max. It did not come back over the next 2 hours of climbing up to 10k feet.

It seems that the SC intercooler blocks some considerable portion of the stock radiator, but largely speculative if this could be the cause. I do also have some much bigger rubber than my buddy, 285 70 R17 BFG K02. I haven't asked Magnuson about this. Anyone else experience it?

2. Two engine noises, pretty sure both post SC install.

a. When engine is cold there is a noise that sounds a bit like a leaking exhaust manifold, kind of a periodic puffing/chuffing. Can't get a good recording of either sound. Definitely goes away when engine is fully warm.

b. Truck also sounds a bit like a diesel (rattly/metallic/preignition) when repeatedly reving slowly in neutral around 1000-1500 rpm. Can also get the same sound in higher rpm ranges. Found some forum posts stating that the truck can sound like a diesel at times and is generally a "noisy" engine. 99% sure these noises were only post SC install.

Magnuson was no help on the noises. They said, you installed with more than 30k miles on the vehicle/enginer so absolutely no warranty. I was not aware of this major exception/fine print in their warranty policy. The reputable local shop who installed the SC can hear both noises but can not identify either noise. Same with Mossy Toyota Pacific Beach, who put their shop manager on the issue and kept the truck for 2 or 3 full days. He suggested a full engine tear down on what sounded like a bit of a wild goose chase. He would only do this if the SC was removed and vehicle put back to stock. Unfortunately I discarded the factory parts. This was just shy of 60k mi so it would have been a warranty issue. Seems like a reasonably strong profit/reimbursement motivation for the shop getting paid from Toyota directly. Either way, I declined their recommendation. The shop that installed the SC had very different advise. They know these trucks are generally rock solid so they advised to ignore the noises and go drive and enjoy the truck, which is precisely what I was doing when the transmission overheated...

Any one else experience anything same/similar? Any other advise or recommendations greatly appreciated.

I answered in the other thread about why the wrong ATF that was put in the transmission is almost certainly the cause of the overheating.

As for engine noise - yeah, the 1GR version 2 (the current 1GR shares less than 1% of parts with the earlier 1GR, not even the same block - but the name is the same...), has noisy valve train. Mine is the same way at idle. I don't know totally why, but the valve system makes a good bit of rattle. From all indications it has never been an issue. Every Toyota engine I've had since the 90's has been this way. Some Hondas too. Never had an issue. Oddly, my Lexus with a very similar engine is totally silent. So, they must add some sort of sound dampening to the Lexus version of the 2GR. I would not worry about the rattle noise.

Sad to see these results.

Mine have been much more satisfying.

Nearly 20k miles on my SC from Magnuson.
Never had temps go over 197 degrees F
Even pulling a 3400 lb trailer up white bird hill in NC Idaho.
Did drop from 5th to 4th and sometimes even to 3Rd, but pre MAG, , on the same hills I lived in 2nd gear.

Way better, less engine strain, less time hunting for gears, more time in OD on EZ terrain.

Yay!

For those that have submitted the tune themselves, is hooking the car up to a battery tender/charger absolutely necessary? I know the voltage must stay above a certain level I'm just wondering if I can get away with doing it right after a drive so it's fully charged.

So I noticed this damp marking on the side of my magnuson SC on Tuesday 9/17/19 when stopping to air up in Crested Butte after a day of light wheeling. I had just travelled from Kansas City to Crested Butte on 9/15 just 2 days before. I can say I never noticed this damp spot any time recently. It’s fresh and still damp to the touch.

Waiting on my local shop and Magnuson for some answers.

It’s now 9/20 and I just did 3 days in Ouray and been checking the marks/wetness daily since did I noticed it in Crested Butte. I’m in Denver now, still 9/20/19. It appears that the dampness is so slightly growing and still damp (not dripping) to the touch. I mean it’s growing but very very little.

Any thoughts/ideas what’s going in here?

My coolant reservoir for the SC is still at good levels and I see no other fluids/leaks around the engine bay. I have put 17k miles on it and only been at altitude above Kansas City (about 900’) for the first time this week while in Colorado.

Attached Images

 

2012 120k miles w 285/70/17 Coopers w a 1k lbs of Armor and extra crap. No SC.
Mine over heated in the Mingus Mountains, AZ (loose gravel and baseball sized cobble stone) doing a slow climb on a cool day in Dec a few years ago. I realized I was in 4Hi. That was a mistake. Now days I do all these slow climbs in 4LO and the temps never get above 200*. I have the Torque Pro app and can see when torque converter temps start climbing too high and adjust my driving, or just let her cool down. I also installed a B&M cooler with a push fan to help in slow speed conditions. She doesn't like doing strenuous uphill offroad driving in any of the Hi gear selections, so I adjusted and it seems to help. Not sure if the intercooler is part of the cause, but might be even more of a reason to install a trans cooler. Hope you get it sorted out.

How did you hold the crankshaft pulley in place to torque the new one to spec??

They make a tool that attaches with 2 bolts to the crank pulley that allows you to attach a breaker bar to the tool preventing movement.

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