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Old 06-05-2021, 12:50 PM #121
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 4boer2 View Post
Like many of you, I have sought out to level out the back of the 4Runner using a simple sheet of plywood on some runners. I also wanted to add some storage to it while maintaining room to sleep in and didn't want to lose too much space, so behold the pictures below! Full disclosure: I do not have the time, skill, or resources to build this myself so I paid a pretty penny to have it done. It is based on and built by the same guy who did this: Building a 5th Gen (2010+) 4Runner Storage Platform – ADVENTURE TACO with a custom twist.

The drawer uses these: Firgelli Automations Full Extension Ball Bearing Drawer Slides 400 lb Capacity (36 Inch) - - Amazon.com
I absolutely love this! I have a similar set up but without the drawer on the one side, the head room is fantastic. When i redo mine i'll definitely reference what you did and the original.




Last edited by Ripper238; 06-06-2021 at 10:12 AM.
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Old 06-16-2021, 01:53 PM #122
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Got some requests for more details on the Aluminum Extrusion Frame platform:



The Frame (all parts from Tnutz.com):

Side Rails -

2 Series 10 EX-1020 1" x 2" Smooth T-Slotted Aluminum Extrusion, Length 38", no machining

Front Cross Rail -

1 Series 10 EX-1010-D 1" x 1" Smooth Tri-Slot T-Slotted Aluminum Extrusion, Length 37 11/16", Machining M6 X 1.0 X 25mm Deep Tap BOTH ENDS (this could be 1" x 2" if more strength is needed)
2 1-Hole Side Connectors EF-010 10 Series Blank End Fastener Clip (you will need to drill holes though the side of the Side Rails to tighten these)
2 Metric Button Head Socket Cap Screw M6 x 20mm

Middle Cross Rail -

1 Series 10 EX-1020 1" x 2" Smooth T-Slotted Aluminum Extrusion, Length 37 11/16", no machining
2 Series 10 6-Hole Plate Connectors - JP-010-F 10 Series 6 Hole Joining Plate (this allows you to move the middle Cross Rail forward and back a bit if needed to compensate for top panel clearances; in the original design/picture, this was a 4-Hole Plate)
12 Combo-010-E M6 Standard T-Nut & 12mm Button Head Cap Screw

Rear Cross Rail -

1 Series 10 EX-1020 1" x 2" Smooth T-Slotted Aluminum Extrusion, Length 37 11/16", Machining M6 X 1.0 X 25mm Deep Tap BOTH ENDS
2 2-Hole Side Connectors EFD-010 Double End Fastener Clip Only (you will need to drill holes though the side of the Side Rails to tighten these)
4 Metric Button Head Socket Cap Screw M6 x 20mm


The Feet:

Front Feet -

Toyota 4Runner Front Cargo Panel feet FROM SLIDING CARGO TRAY VERSION
58456-35010 Slide Assembly Mount Bracket
58457-35010 Slide Assembly Mount Bracket
These will replace the shorter feet from the sloped Front Cargo Panel of the non-sliding cargo tray version floor.
2 M6 Button Head Cap Screw 20mm min

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Rear Feet -

Connection to Side Rails -
2 CB-010-H 10 Series 8 Hole Inside Corner Bracket
8 Combo-010-E M6 Standard T-Nut & 12mm Button Head Cap Screw

Connection to Floor -
2 Steel L Framing Brackets (min 2" wide, min 3" high) from Home Depot/Lowes/HW Store (e.g. Simpson Strong-Tie 2 in. x 3-7/8 in. x 2-1/2 in. Galvanized Angle)
2 M8 Button Head Cap Screw 25mm min

4 M6 Bolts & Nuts to tie the two brackets together.



You will need to find the threaded nut locations for the Sliding Cargo Tray rear mounting points and drill down to them from the top of the floor, being careful not to strip out the threads. I found them by laying on the ground and looking up at the bottom of the floor; you will see welded-in nuts with RTV filling the insides. Scrape out the RTV and hit the middle with a punch so that you make a dimple in the floor sheetmetal, then drill down from the top using a small drill first, working up to the correct hole size.

Bolt the 8 Hole Inside Corner Bracket to the bottom of the side rails (flat extensions inward) and place the Steel Framing Brackets inside of them (feet facing inward). After aligning the Frame, some drilling will be required to mount the Steel Framing Brackets to the floor and to the 8 Hole Inside Corner Brackets.


The Top Panels:

The combined Top Panel length is 41". I cut them 43 1/4" wide to leave clearance on the sides in case I decided to cover them with carpet (a la Volvo). I made the rearmost panel 24" long and the forward panel 17" long, but you could allocate the length of the two panels any way you want. Each panel is held to the frame with 4 hinges from your local hardware store, e.g.
Everbilt 20257 2-1/2 in. Stainless Steel Narrow Utility Hinge Non-Removable Pin (Home Depot)
or
Everbilt 15397 2 in. Zinc Plated Narrow Utility Hinges (Home Depot)

You may have to "ovalize" the holes that mount to the Frame with a rattail file to get the correct hinge height and keep the Top Panels flush with the floor.

I used 1/4" Birch Plywood (which now seems to be metric, so it is actually thinner), so I ended-up reinforcing the larger panel with some leftover scrap plywood and some aluminum channel I had lying around.

16 Combo-010-E M6 Standard T-Nut & 12mm Button Head Cap Screw (to mount the hinges to the rails)

16 M6 x 14mm Flat-Head Screws and Nyloc Nuts (to mount hinges to the Top Panels - SCREW LENGTH WILL BE DEPENDENT UPON PANEL THICKNESS)




Notes:

Remove rear threshold trim, cargo area carpet, front cargo tie-downs, front cargo panel, and styrofoam under pad. Information on how to do this is in the first part of this post:

5th Gen Sliding cargo tray Install - Pics/Steps

Unbolt the front cargo panel brackets from the floor and replace them with the factory Slide Assembly Mount Brackets with the "wings" pointing outward.

After you have assembled the frame and established it's location in the cargo area, you will need to locate and drill 6mm access holes down through the top of the inner channel of each side rail so that you can slide 6mm button head cap screws into the channels (which will mate to the captive nuts of the Slide Assembly Mount Brackets) and tighten them through the access holes. Wads of paper or dollops of RTV can be used to keep these screws in place.

I reused the front cargo tie-downs on the very front of the forward floor, passing the bolt through the outer hinge plate for strength.



The rest of the cargo tie-downs/floor retainers are M6 x 11.2 mm SS Eye Bolts (available from Amazon). If you make the floor panels out of a thicker material, you will need to find longer Eye Bolts.

Amazon.com: Glarks 36Pcs 304 Stainless Steel M6 Male Thread Machinery Shoulder Lifting Ring Eye Bolt with Lock Nuts/Lock Washers/Flat Washers Set: Home Improvement

The stronger 6m channel nuts (DB-010 Drop-In T-Nut w/ Spring Ball, M6 x 1.0) should be used to anchor these. On my floor, they are retained to the panels using 1/4" Pushnut Bolt Retainers.

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Last edited by AdventureMan; 06-16-2021 at 02:09 PM.
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Old 06-16-2021, 05:37 PM #123
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AdventureMan View Post
Got some requests for more details on the Aluminum Extrusion Frame platform:
Youre the best.
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Old 06-23-2021, 12:31 PM #124
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AdventureMan View Post
Got some requests for more details on the Aluminum Extrusion Frame platform:
Hmmm this has my gears turning.
I'm thinking of maybe a 2" with the top inset flush so rails could be used for tie down points. My simple one has one advantage of being able to get my folding table out even when there is stuff in the back...well as long as its not too heavy.
Time to do some measuring...
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Old 06-23-2021, 07:58 PM #125
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AdventureMan View Post
After looking at all the platforms and drawer setups other guys did for their 4Runners, our needs dictated a low flat platform to sleep on without having to remove the rear seats (but level with the rear seats when they're down). Since this particular 4Runner has the lowest cargo floor (2-row seats/no sliding cargo tray), that requires a raised floor. In an homage to our family's dearly departed '99 Volvo station wagon, we wanted to be able to use the area underneath the floor for storage, and as this 4Runner is also used as a tow vehicle, whatever we built needed to be light-weight.

Using information from other posts on this forum, I ended-up pulling out all the cargo floor carpet, foam padding, and trim, and building a slightly raised floor out of a combination of 2"x1" and 1"x1" aluminum T-nut extrusions and birch plywood (some of us have been making roof rack crossbars out of these extrusions for the stock roof rack). The frame is made of parts purchased from Tnutz.com, who will cut all the rails to whatever length you specify (so measure 3 times). It uses 4 of the the sliding cargo tray mounting points to secure it to the floor. The front of the frame sits on the front mounting brackets from the sliding cargo tray version of the 4Runner floor (available from Toyota parts).



To keep things light, 1/4" birch plywood was used for the floor panels, but 1/4" plywood really isn't 1/4" thick anymore, so the larger panel needed to be reinforced with a doubling panel and some small aluminum U-channel that was laying around. The whole assembly came in around 25 lbs. before finishing.



Because the birch plywood actually had figuring in the grain, it was sprayed with urethane varnish (mostly for water protection) and the floor was secured down with hinges from the local hardware store and stainless cargo eyelets (threaded into channel nuts). The original chrome floor cargo rings are used for the very front of the floor.



We also purchased a Napier Sport Cove tailgate tent/awning (the large size) which actually fits the 4Runner pretty well. It adds both space and ventilation and can give you at least 6 more inches of leg room if you need it. When at a track event, I use a foldable futon from home on the wide (passenger) side and don't even have to remove my Pelican 50qt cooler. If you pull the cooler and put more sleep pads, there's enough space for two "very friendly" people.





There is room to stow a considerable amount of gear under the floor, so long as nothing is more than 4" tall.





The floor panels are a bit willowy but the frame is really strong. The whole assembly is plenty strong enough to support human weight, but you wouldn't want anyone to drop an anvil on it. Maybe there will be 3/8" birch plywood in the next iteration.

If people want details, let me know and I can post more info.


This is next level! Inspiring me to get something built!
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