I absolutely love this! I have a similar set up but without the drawer on the one side, the head room is fantastic. When i redo mine i'll definitely reference what you did and the original.

Got some requests for more details on the Aluminum Extrusion Frame platform:



The Frame (all parts from Tnutz.com):

Side Rails -

2 Series 10 EX-1020 1" x 2" Smooth T-Slotted Aluminum Extrusion, Length 38", no machining

Front Cross Rail -

1 Series 10 EX-1010-D 1" x 1" Smooth Tri-Slot T-Slotted Aluminum Extrusion, Length 37 11/16", Machining M6 X 1.0 X 25mm Deep Tap BOTH ENDS (this could be 1" x 2" if more strength is needed)
2 1-Hole Side Connectors EF-010 10 Series Blank End Fastener Clip (you will need to drill holes though the side of the Side Rails to tighten these)
2 Metric Button Head Socket Cap Screw M6 x 20mm

Middle Cross Rail -

1 Series 10 EX-1020 1" x 2" Smooth T-Slotted Aluminum Extrusion, Length 37 11/16", no machining
2 Series 10 6-Hole Plate Connectors - JP-010-F 10 Series 6 Hole Joining Plate (this allows you to move the middle Cross Rail forward and back a bit if needed to compensate for top panel clearances; in the original design/picture, this was a 4-Hole Plate)
12 Combo-010-E M6 Standard T-Nut & 12mm Button Head Cap Screw

Rear Cross Rail -

1 Series 10 EX-1020 1" x 2" Smooth T-Slotted Aluminum Extrusion, Length 37 11/16", Machining M6 X 1.0 X 25mm Deep Tap BOTH ENDS
2 2-Hole Side Connectors EFD-010 Double End Fastener Clip Only (you will need to drill holes though the side of the Side Rails to tighten these)
4 Metric Button Head Socket Cap Screw M6 x 20mm


The Feet:

Front Feet -

Toyota 4Runner Front Cargo Panel feet FROM SLIDING CARGO TRAY VERSION
58456-35010 Slide Assembly Mount Bracket
58457-35010 Slide Assembly Mount Bracket
These will replace the shorter feet from the sloped Front Cargo Panel of the non-sliding cargo tray version floor.
2 M6 Button Head Cap Screw 20mm min

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Rear Feet -

Connection to Side Rails -
2 CB-010-H 10 Series 8 Hole Inside Corner Bracket
8 Combo-010-E M6 Standard T-Nut & 12mm Button Head Cap Screw

Connection to Floor -
2 Steel L Framing Brackets (min 2" wide, min 3" high) from Home Depot/Lowes/HW Store (e.g. Simpson Strong-Tie 2 in. x 3-7/8 in. x 2-1/2 in. Galvanized Angle)
2 M8 Button Head Cap Screw 25mm min

4 M6 Bolts & Nuts to tie the two brackets together.



You will need to find the threaded nut locations for the Sliding Cargo Tray rear mounting points and drill down to them from the top of the floor, being careful not to strip out the threads. I found them by laying on the ground and looking up at the bottom of the floor; you will see welded-in nuts with RTV filling the insides. Scrape out the RTV and hit the middle with a punch so that you make a dimple in the floor sheetmetal, then drill down from the top using a small drill first, working up to the correct hole size.

Bolt the 8 Hole Inside Corner Bracket to the bottom of the side rails (flat extensions inward) and place the Steel Framing Brackets inside of them (feet facing inward). After aligning the Frame, some drilling will be required to mount the Steel Framing Brackets to the floor and to the 8 Hole Inside Corner Brackets.


The Top Panels:

The combined Top Panel length is 41". I cut them 43 1/4" wide to leave clearance on the sides in case I decided to cover them with carpet (a la Volvo). I made the rearmost panel 24" long and the forward panel 17" long, but you could allocate the length of the two panels any way you want. Each panel is held to the frame with 4 hinges from your local hardware store, e.g.
Everbilt 20257 2-1/2 in. Stainless Steel Narrow Utility Hinge Non-Removable Pin (Home Depot)
or
Everbilt 15397 2 in. Zinc Plated Narrow Utility Hinges (Home Depot)

You may have to "ovalize" the holes that mount to the Frame with a rattail file to get the correct hinge height and keep the Top Panels flush with the floor.

I used 1/4" Birch Plywood (which now seems to be metric, so it is actually thinner), so I ended-up reinforcing the larger panel with some leftover scrap plywood and some aluminum channel I had lying around.

16 Combo-010-E M6 Standard T-Nut & 12mm Button Head Cap Screw (to mount the hinges to the rails)

16 M6 x 14mm Flat-Head Screws and Nyloc Nuts (to mount hinges to the Top Panels - SCREW LENGTH WILL BE DEPENDENT UPON PANEL THICKNESS)




Notes:

Remove rear threshold trim, cargo area carpet, front cargo tie-downs, front cargo panel, and styrofoam under pad. Information on how to do this is in the first part of this post:

5th Gen Sliding cargo tray Install - Pics/Steps

Unbolt the front cargo panel brackets from the floor and replace them with the factory Slide Assembly Mount Brackets with the "wings" pointing outward.

After you have assembled the frame and established it's location in the cargo area, you will need to locate and drill 6mm access holes down through the top of the inner channel of each side rail so that you can slide 6mm button head cap screws into the channels (which will mate to the captive nuts of the Slide Assembly Mount Brackets) and tighten them through the access holes. Wads of paper or dollops of RTV can be used to keep these screws in place.

I reused the front cargo tie-downs on the very front of the forward floor, passing the bolt through the outer hinge plate for strength.



The rest of the cargo tie-downs/floor retainers are M6 x 11.2 mm SS Eye Bolts (available from Amazon). If you make the floor panels out of a thicker material, you will need to find longer Eye Bolts.

Amazon.com: Glarks 36Pcs 304 Stainless Steel M6 Male Thread Machinery Shoulder Lifting Ring Eye Bolt with Lock Nuts/Lock Washers/Flat Washers Set: Home Improvement

The stronger 6m channel nuts (DB-010 Drop-In T-Nut w/ Spring Ball, M6 x 1.0) should be used to anchor these. On my floor, they are retained to the panels using 1/4" Pushnut Bolt Retainers.

Youre the best.

Hmmm this has my gears turning.
I'm thinking of maybe a 2" with the top inset flush so rails could be used for tie down points. My simple one has one advantage of being able to get my folding table out even when there is stuff in the back...well as long as its not too heavy.
Time to do some measuring...

This is next level! Inspiring me to get something built!

We go camping with the whole family. My wife and I sleep in the tent and the kids in the car. Usually, my kids don't like to sleep in the tent. They are afraid of all tiny creatures. So, I decided to look for a multifunctional air mattress. I bought two enerplex mattresses, one that I set in the car and another in the tent. I prefer them instead of sleeping pads. Much comfortable.

Some of us have bad knees and backs! we have a large Cabela's hunting tent that will take 2 cots, chairs, and a small table. However, still requires kneeling!

We opted for an Air-Bedz mattress and put a hitch step on the back. Should be here today!

As a retired Wildlife Biologist for the Feds, we have camped in grizzly & wolf country many times. I am more afraid of moose than bears! We had one "redesign" an elk camp in '89!

haha actually since i posted that i have done a week long trip and camped outta the back of the car. it worked great!

Bought an AirBedz last year and took it on our 3 day 2 night Mojave Preserve trip. First night was very good as part of the mattress goes over the fender wells and gives you a full size mattress. I’m 6’3” and my wife and young son were comfortable. Next night it leaked and trying to get a refund through the manufacture that sells on Amazon is a pain. Great idea, size and easy inflate/deflate. Too bad most air mattresses eventually leak. Bring the repair kit with you and maybe some Gorilla plumbers tape. Good luck.

bought a inflatable queen mattress at walmart. inflated it in the car and it snugged up nice and was perfect. Deflated it in the AM to put the gear back in.

too hot in the summer months to sleep inside in the summer months without some sort of swamp cooler, portable AC.

I was searching for how to fill the gap between the rear seat backs (seat bottoms removed easily with 4 bolts) and found this post. Low and behold - the 8Gal Rubbermaid Action Packers are still available and are a perfect fit. Such a great solution - fit the space AND provides useful accessible storage.

Here they shown in my T4R with a sliding rear cargo tray.



The usable dimensions are 83" long x 54" wide (at the forward part by the doors) // 44" wide (at the wheel wells). By reference - a standard FULL mattress is 75" long x 52" wide. I've ordered a tri-fold foam Full mattress and plan to make a small adjustment to make it fit into the narrowing part of the "bed".

While I have use an Autohome RTT for warmer weather, I'm going to opt to sleep inside the T4R during colder fall/winter camping.

Tri-Fold 4" FULL mattress sourced from Amazon arrived. Took out the turkey carving knife and trimmed 2 sections to fit.

Overall length is 82" with a filler foam at the head side.

Looking forward to some chilly fall camping inside the T4R next week.

Front Runner wolf packs fit perfectly as well, but the front seats have to be all the way forward. The high lid makes it close to even with the seats laying down. Then I place a portable power station between the boxes to power my phone and fan at night.

I like those light on the molle panel!
Can you share the brand/model? Thanks

HardKorr lights...

HardKorr 10" Orange/White Bar
– Lolo Overland Outfitting