10-05-2017, 12:57 PM
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#1
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Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: I. E. So. Cal
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RCI transfer case skid contacts exhaust :(
Noticed a different sound when driving, looked under, saw it.
Going to have to get the exhaust moved.
Last edited by delloro; 10-05-2017 at 01:01 PM.
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10-05-2017, 01:05 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Texas
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Super common problem with a 50 cent fix. Put a hose clamp over the rubber isolator and tighten it enough to stop the rubbing. Include a zip tie in case it ever slips off. No need to tighten much.
Moving the exhaust will cost way more. I eventually did that because I wanted to raise the t-case skid up an inch...
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2011 SR5 4x4, Magnuson Supercharger, ICON ET coil overs, MT ICON LT rear, MT offset lower links, URD Y-Pipe, TC UCAs, Baja Rack, MT Sliders, RCI Aluminum skids, 4.56 gearing with ARB lockers front and rear. 305/70 Goodyear MTRs (34") on Konig Countersteer 17x8. Addicted front bumper, Custom undercover tube protection rear. LT font or SAS going on next.
1989 Hilux - 22RE, SAS, hydro assist, Full Exo cage, dual ultimate cases, RCVs, 529s w Detroit locker rear + ARB front, Diamond Axle, bead locks, 40s.
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10-05-2017, 01:28 PM
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#3
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Apr 2015
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Thanks!
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10-05-2017, 03:52 PM
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#4
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Junior Member
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Join Date: Oct 2016
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Might also wrap that section of pipe in some heat wrap? It would cut down on the clanking in case the hose clamp comes lose or isnt tight enough.
I saw this issue as well last night installing my skids. I ended up waiting to install the transfer skid to think through a solution.
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10-05-2017, 04:56 PM
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#5
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Join Date: Dec 2012
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Real Name: Ben
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I've been planning to do the hose clamp fix for quite a while. I guess it must not bother me as much as I pretend because I've had a vibration for about 4 years and still haven't done it. I have replaced that skid a couple times when I've bashed it up mercilessly. 
Edit: decided enough is enough and ran out (working from home), threw a worm driven clamp on there that I had (nice stainless with rounded edges so I don't cut into the isolator). Cranked it down... moved the exhaust up off skid. Now I need to drive... thanks as always
@ wfo9
for the reminder!
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Last edited by bimrunner; 10-05-2017 at 05:13 PM.
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10-05-2017, 06:09 PM
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#6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wfo9
Super common problem with a 50 cent fix. Put a hose clamp over the rubber isolator and tighten it enough to stop the rubbing. Include a zip tie in case it ever slips off. No need to tighten much.
Moving the exhaust will cost way more. I eventually did that because I wanted to raise the t-case skid up an inch...
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Man
@ wfo9
you are really delivering these days. I had this problem as well and ended up putting spacers on the skid plate bolts to drop them down just enough. Will try this trick next!
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Xtremluck's 2012 SR5 Build Thread
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10-05-2017, 06:55 PM
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#7
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Good to know as I am thinking about these skids. This forum is an incredible wealth of knowledge and information.
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10-05-2017, 07:54 PM
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#8
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Wrapped mine in exhaust wrap from O'Reillys before I installed mine. No more noise of clanking but I can feel it vibrate (only when in reverse for some reason). Will also be doing the hose clamp mod at some point to alleviate this.
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2016 SR5P 4x4 Nautical Blue Nitto Ridge Grappler 285/75R17 ~ Stealth Custom Series SR8 ~ King Racing 2.5's ~ RCI Skids ~ Pelfreybilt Hidden Winch Mount Use "T4RZAN" at Rago Fabrication for 10% off Keep up with my adventures on Instagram: @_jacksonjenkins
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10-05-2017, 08:40 PM
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#9
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Could you give the frame hook for the isolater a whack and maybe pull the exhaust up while still keeping it vibe free?
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10-05-2017, 08:50 PM
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#10
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Mine's been on for over 6 years. You want to hear skid and exhaust piping contact?! lol
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10-05-2017, 10:39 PM
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#11
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I biased the cross-member downward when installing that skid and wrapped the exhaust in exhaust wrap--no noise.
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10-05-2017, 11:17 PM
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#12
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This is a handy piece of information, I order a skid plate kit on the RCI group buy and when they come in I'm sure I would've been 🤦🏻*♂️
So thanks in advance!!
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11-14-2018, 09:16 PM
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#13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wfo9
Moving the exhaust will cost way more. I eventually did that because I wanted to raise the t-case skid up an inch...
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Any references on how that is done.
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11-14-2018, 10:25 PM
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#14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by T4RZAN
Wrapped mine in exhaust wrap from O'Reillys before I installed mine. No more noise of clanking but I can feel it vibrate (only when in reverse for some reason). Will also be doing the hose clamp mod at some point to alleviate this.
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I have wrapped many exhausts on previously owned cars and motorcycles. Just know that exhaust wrap holds in moisture and leads to extremely premature rusting of the pipe underneath the wrap. I learned the hard way on my old Subaru that I wrapped the downpipe after the turbo on, thing was basically rotting underneath. You can google "exhaust wrap rust underneath" and see plenty of picture examples.
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11-14-2018, 11:08 PM
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#15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pDubs
I have wrapped many exhausts on previously owned cars and motorcycles. Just know that exhaust wrap holds in moisture and leads to extremely premature rusting of the pipe underneath the wrap. I learned the hard way on my old Subaru that I wrapped the downpipe after the turbo on, thing was basically rotting underneath. You can google "exhaust wrap rust underneath" and see plenty of picture examples.
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Thank you for the heads up. It definitely makes sense.
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2016 SR5P 4x4 Nautical Blue Nitto Ridge Grappler 285/75R17 ~ Stealth Custom Series SR8 ~ King Racing 2.5's ~ RCI Skids ~ Pelfreybilt Hidden Winch Mount Use "T4RZAN" at Rago Fabrication for 10% off Keep up with my adventures on Instagram: @_jacksonjenkins
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