I thought I would do a brief review of the my swap to 4:56 gears.
I decided to go with the pre built clam shell from East Coast Gear Supply. I purchased them myself at the suggestion of High Country 4x4, so I could avoid them marking the parts up.
I had a bunch of questions prior to purchase to make sure I was getting the right parts which I submitted by e-mail. I must have sent 20 e-mails clarifying everything and all their responses were within an hour. Really amazing customer service!
The Parts and options I ordered are as follows: (Note, this is copied straight from their invoice) Also I decided not to go for the front locker as it seemed a bit overkill for my situation

OPTIONS:
Select Shipping Options: Send Return Label
AWD or 4WD: 4WD - Selectable Add New Bearings: Use good used bearings ADD 4 SERIES CASE: NO CASE
Select Core Charge: Core Charge ($400.00)
Select Gear Ratio: 4.56 Thick ($50.00)
Add Locker: NO LOCKER
Add Solid Spacer: No Solid Spacer Add CV Bushing: Add Bushing ($45.00) Select Gear Oil: Gear Oil ($32.00)

PARTS and NUMBERS;
DIFF-BUILD-T8CS Complete Assembled ECGS Differential Toyota 8" Clamshell Front with 456 R&P $600

T8CS-BUSHING T8CS - Toyota 8" Clamshell Case Sleeved Bushing. Replaces Needle Bearing Part # 90364-35010 and 90364-35008

DIFF-BUILD-T8.2ELOK ECGS COMPLETE DIFF - TOYOTA 8.2 ELOCKER 2010 + FJ CRUISER/4RUNNER/PRADO 150 (12 BOLT RING GEAR 14MM NUTS ON 12MM HOUSING STUDS) $830

CORE-T8.2-ELOK CORE-T8.2-ELOK: Toyota 8.2" Complete Elocker 3rd Member Housing for 2011 and newer 4runner/FJ Cruiser
CORE CHARGE: Your cores must be in transit back to East Coast Gear Supply within 30 Days of receipt of new differential or you will be charged a restock fee. Restock Schedule: 45 Days 15% / 90 Days 30% / 120 Days + 50% $650.00

CORE-T8CS CORE-T8CS TOYOTA 8 CLAMSHELL 3RD MEMBER HOUSING COMPLETE W/ CARRIER (NO TUBE) CORE CHARGE: Your cores must be in transit back to East Coast Gear Supply within 30 Days of receipt of new differential or you will be charged a restock fee. Restock Schedule: 45 Days 15% / 90 Days 30% / 120 Days + 50% $400.00

OIL-85W-140-LUCAS-BULK 10064: Bulk Lucas SAE 85W-140 Gear Oil - 3 quarts for most

The parts arrived 5 business days after ordering, In 2 boxes packed well and very heavy!

I used High Country 4x4 for the Install. They did a great job and their customer service is always the best. In addition their 1 year parts and labor warranty far exceeds everyone else in Denver. They have always taken great care of me, even when parts manufactures wouldn't stand by their products. I let them have the truck while I was out of town for three days and they had it done promptly when I returned, with the old gears boxed up and ready for return. Install ran me $687.90

I sent the old gears back within a day or two and had my credit card credited for $1000 (-$23 for shipping the gears back to them) back on my card within 7 working days, before my Credit Card bill even came due!

All in all, amazing service and work by both ECGS and High Country 4x4, I would highly recommend both to anyone.

So total bill for gears and install came to $2307.26

I changed the gear oil myself at 500 miles. Note that you must use lucas oil as recommended by ECGS or you will void their warranty.

So down to the performance: (I have about 4000 miles on the gears now.)

What a huge difference this made. After I went from 285/70 duratracs to 285/75 Ridge Grapplers the truck really suffered. Especially in the mountains here. She was searching for gears constantly and driving over 70 mph was miserable even on the flat. I don't even really remember what stock was like anymore, it's been 3 1/2 years since the original tire size change, but I imagine it runs more like stock now. Shifting is more predictable and power is much more reasonable at all speeds and power ranges. I can cruise at 85 mph no problem. And 75 mph up the mountains doesn't feel like I'm pushing too hard anymore. Power and acceleration from stop is much better.
Fully loaded (2 adults, 2 kids, 2 labs and gear for a week) she drives much better.

Off road in 4-wheel low she just rolls over obstacles without having to rev the engine then hit the brakes. Much easier driving. I don't favor using the crawl control and other gadgets (other than the locker and ATRAC) much as I prefer to drive the rig myself so I can't comment on that.

As far as MPG go I haven't noticed more than a 1 MPG improvement. So I average about 14.7 MPG after 14 tanks. (Using GPS and SCANGUAGE)

The speedometer is off by about 2 mph at 75 mph after the regear. So very close to stock now.

Overall I would recommend this to those who are thinking about it.. I had to hold off on a rear bumper to do this and I now feel it was a good choice. (Although I really want the rear bumper!)

I used them when my one bearing went. I got a rebuild 3rd member with all new bearings for less that I could of had mine rebuilt. They service was great, shipping was fast and the warranty made it worth it.

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Great review with loads of great detail about the ordering, part numbers, and what to expect with shipping and returning, and time for the CC refund for returning the cores.

This answers a lot of questions. Thanks for taking the time to put this together.

I'm glad you're enjoying the difference. This seems like the best change one could make for the money.

Great write up of the parts you ordered. I was trying to understand some of this in the thread on 4.56 gears.

I looked through the East Coast Gear Supply website yesterday and I could not tell what any of the part names meant. Can you explain some of the parts you listed here?

What does the 3rd Member Housing mean?
What does the 8.2 designation refer to?
Did you reuse your OEM E-locker and that's why your invoice says no locker? You say you use the locking differential so I assume you still have one.
Any explanation of the invoice names and parts would be very helpful. TIA

Does anyone know of a good west coast shop that can install these parts? I'm in the Los Angeles area. I did my lift install but taking a differential apart and replacing gears may be beyond my skill set. And I don't have some of the tools required or a good shop bench I can get oil all over. Plus I am working a lot and have a house restoration project I work on during the weekends. This Old House requires a lot of work.

No offense, but I think you need to do a bit more studying before going with gear swaps and locker installs. For starters, if you don’t have all of the tools, it’s VERY easy to install these components incorrectly and break shít. I’ve always found it most rewarding when I fully understand how a component works, rather than just throwing it at the vehicle.

GL on your house projects. I am doing the same thing now as well lol.


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No offense taken. I know my mechanical skills are limited when it comes to engines, transmissions and gear boxes. I figure I'll be hiring a shop to swap the parts.

We have a 105 year old Craftsman Bungalow in Pasadena. We've just about finished restoring most of the house but there is always another something that needs replacing or repairing.

First and foremost just let the guys at ECGS tell you what you need based on your situation. They are very knowledgeable.
Second, I don't profess to be an expert on this so someone will likely chime in and either correct me or expound upon what I have said. I appreciate that in advance.
The 3rd member housing is part of the housing that holds the rear differential.
8.2 is the size of the differential we have in inches
I have a trail which came stock with an e-locker. I reused this and did not add front locker as was spelled out above.
I'm not sure what else you would like defined. Take a good look at their website and use your friend google to learn as much as you can.

Just as an FYI, I got a quote from high country to do the gear install on mine today, they quoted me 1000. I'm not sure if their prices have really gone up that far or what

FWIW -

There are a couple things that people would be describing as "installing gears". The first one is where you buy the actual ring gear and pinion gear sets (they come as matched pairs) and remove your differentials from the vehicle, take them apart, put the new stuff all together, and then put them back in your vehicle. Typically a set of gears for this type of swap will cost about $500-1,000 depending on whether you replace the bearings or reuse them. This is a complicated process that requires some technical skills and training that most home mechanics don't have and may not have the tools to do so properly. It's not hard. It is high precision and requires a few expensive tools that you may not already own. In this version you get this in the mail and you take it from there:



The reason ECGS is popular is that they send you the differential assemblies already put together. So you take yours out, put the new parts back in, and mail them the parts you took out of your vehicle. They will reuse them for the next customer. That does two things - it saves down time where you would otherwise have to wait for the parts to be assembled and it makes it easy for a DIY mechanic to do at home. This is more complex than a lift kit - but honestly, not a lot. It's basically just unbolting stuff, then bolting new stuff back in its place. In this version of swap you get this in the mail

for the rear, and this for the front:

You can see that there's a big difference in what you're going to be taking on in terms of assembly between the two versions of doing a gear swap.

If you removed your differentials, took them to a shop to swap gears, then re-installed them yourself, it would probably cost about the same as ECGS. But with ECGS you get the benefit of having the new stuff already sitting there ready to go.

You could also take your vehicle to a shop and install the ECGS diffs. Or you could take your vehicle to a shop and have them pull the diffs, re-gear them, and reinstall them. My guess is that the total cost would be a wash between doing those two options. The benefit of ECGS is you get the high precision part of the build done by a pro who does them every day. Not all local mechanics are pros at setting up diffs for Toyotas. If you know one you trust, I'm sure they are equally competent at doing this setup.

This is a big benefit of Toyota engineering. In most axles you can't remove the complete assembly. You have to setup the ring and pinion inside the axle housing. It's a huge PITA and practically requires doing it on a vehicle lift or removing the axle and doing it on a bench. You can't do this type of swap with a Dana 44. The Ford 9inch is another common axle that has a removeable differential assembly known as a "third member". The toyota axle is a copy of a ford 9" in many respects.

Hope that helps.

Other stuff that I think was already answered - 8.2 is the nominal differential size of the rear axle. It's approximately 8.2 inch diameter ring gear. The sizes are nominal though - meaning they aren't actually the real measurement. For example the reinforced Tacoma diff is called an 8.4" but it's actually about 8". The most common diff is known as an 8" diff. The 8.2 is actually larger than an 8" and because of other design changes it is significantly stronger.

The front differential is known as a "clamshell" because of how it goes together and is a reverse cut 8" ring and pinion. It's reverse cut meaning that the pinion is at the top, not the bottom of the differential, so the gear teeth have the angles the other direction as compared to the rear differential. This isn't important other than knowing what it's called and why.


This is a good resource to read to learn about the stuff inside - even though it's not Toyota stuff. https://www.pirate4x4.com/articles/t...sta/Gear_Setup

I can't explain the pricing from Hi Country, maybe ask them. Kind in mind it was last October this work was done. Labor costs are going crazy in Denver so maybe that's it. I have a long standing relationship with them also so maybe that's part of it.

I'm about to do this same swap, except add air lockers to both axles as well. How is it going with your swap?

Thanks!
Cory

I've no regrets with the gear swap. Been in for 4 years and 70,000 miles with no issues whatsoever. I would absolutely do it again and use ECGS. Good luck with yours!

I just hit about 650 miles on my 4.56 swap. I did the fluid change at just over 500 miles and I expected the fluid to be dirty and gritty, but it was clear as could be, looked like new with just a bit of sludge on the drain magnets.

So far, it drives like new. I couldn't be happier and I expect these will last longer than I will at this point.

I'm in Pasadena as well, and this shop in Monrovia has been great:

RPM Garage | Auto Repair Monrovia, CA | Tires | Brakes |

Actually been planning to ask them about a re-gear. Thanks for the reminder.

For anybody near ECGS, I recently dropped the truck off for them to regear and wire the e-locker up front. Great service from the shop.

I'm changing the gear oil this weekend as per the break-in instructions. 4.56 gears have returned on-road driving to a pleasurable experience with big tires. Planning a trip up to Shenandoah to crawl in a few weeks. I know the benefits of gears and tires. There was one obstacle I couldn't clear last time and wished for a front locker. Now that it's in, nothing stands in my way!