12-22-2017, 08:49 PM
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#1
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Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Alaska
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Join Date: Oct 2013
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RAGO Toyota Switch w/ KC Ditch Light issues...
ISSUE: Rago Ditch Light (RDL) switch is hooked up and works perfect EXCEPT the dimmer is backwards from the rest of the dash and factory switches (ie:when the dash gets dimmer the RDL gets brighter, when the dash gets brighter the RDL gets dimmer.). RDL switch has two images: 1) double pods, 2) DITCH SWITCH.
HOW I GOT TO WHERE I AM:
Diagrams for both the KC and Rago (attached). However, the KC ACTUALLY has yellow, red, and black wires with NO end piece (as pictured). The Rago diagram switch colors are correct, but the connection colors are NOT (ie: no white or blue connection wires).
1st Attempt:
(KC) Blk to (Rago) Blk
(KC) Yellow to (Rago) Green
(KC) Red to BOTH (Rago) Red 1 & 2
1st Outcome:
Ditch lights come on when RDL switch is on.
Switch light has NO illumination with switch off, but has FULL brightness ("blinding" in backcountry Alaska) for both switch images when switch is on.
2nd Attempt (current set up picture in next post):
(KC) Blk to (Rago) Blk
(KC) Yellow to (Rago) Green
(KC) Red to (Rago) Red 1
(Rago) Red 2 to (RSCA harness) Grey
2nd Outcome:
1. RDL switch has illumination to "Ditch Light" label whether factory lightswitch is on or off (FYI- no other factory switches have illumination with headlight switch OFF)..
2. RDL switch adds illumination to the picture of pods when RDL switch (and ditch lights) is on. RDL switch turns ditch lights on regardless of factory headlights being on or off.
3. Dash Light Adjust Control Dimmer Switch (DLACDS) controls RDL dimming EXCEPT dimming is backwards from the rest of the dashboard and factory switches.
///BREAK///
DISCLAIMERS:
First most, please don't flame me. I've never done electrical on my vehicles. After a bunch of home electrical fixes, SNAFUs, and remodeling, I felt confident enough to try electrical work. I'm now stuck, and the more I research the more I'm learning that what I'm doing could be potentially an expensive fix. I have many electrical questions I'll be researching answers before completing the rest of the electrical, but in the interim I'm hoping someone can help with the main issue.
Secondly, I didn't see the Rago Fabrication "hater threads" until AFTER trying to search for the answers to my questions. So, I want to be clear- this is NOT a Rago bashing thread. Rago Fabrication (Ms. Melissa) has offered excellent customer service every time I called and emailed.
Finally, I bought a multimeter, but the more I research the more confused I'm getting on how to use it. For example, I get 0.00 readings when testing wires. On the battery, when I touch the red to positive and black to negative I get 24 reading....
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2013 T4R TE w/ KDSS, ICON Ext Travel w/ ICON tubular UCA, Metal Tech upper and lower links, Sonoran Steel KDSS panhard bar, RCI aluminum skids, All Pro APEX sliders, 285/75/17 Yokohama Geolander MT, BMC, Front Runner rack, C4 front & rear bumper, C4 ladder
Last edited by mattyrides07; 12-25-2017 at 11:32 PM.
Reason: Better clarification of issues and including pictures
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12-22-2017, 08:51 PM
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#2
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Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Alaska
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How wires are currently connected.
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2013 T4R TE w/ KDSS, ICON Ext Travel w/ ICON tubular UCA, Metal Tech upper and lower links, Sonoran Steel KDSS panhard bar, RCI aluminum skids, All Pro APEX sliders, 285/75/17 Yokohama Geolander MT, BMC, Front Runner rack, C4 front & rear bumper, C4 ladder
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12-22-2017, 10:17 PM
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#3
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: NJ
Posts: 1,221
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Have you reached out to
@ RagoFabrication
? Melissa is on here frequently, but her response might be delayed with the Holiday weekend.
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Troner envy... the struggle is real!
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12-22-2017, 10:36 PM
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#4
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Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Alaska
Age: 39
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Join Date: Oct 2013
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CF_Machete
Have you reached out to
@ RagoFabrication
? Melissa is on here frequently, but her response might be delayed with the Holiday weekend.
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Not regarding this issue as they're on holiday until the 26th. I want to respect their family time. Just hoping someone on here would know. I found a couple threads with the same issue, but no posted resolution.
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2013 T4R TE w/ KDSS, ICON Ext Travel w/ ICON tubular UCA, Metal Tech upper and lower links, Sonoran Steel KDSS panhard bar, RCI aluminum skids, All Pro APEX sliders, 285/75/17 Yokohama Geolander MT, BMC, Front Runner rack, C4 front & rear bumper, C4 ladder
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12-23-2017, 02:09 AM
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#5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mattyrides07
Not regarding this issue as they're on holiday until the 26th. I want to respect their family time. Just hoping someone on here would know. I found a couple threads with the same issue, but no posted resolution.
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Hard to figure out your issue.
Some dimmers get dim with power and some with a ground. Test your switch with a multimeter.
Use the continuity feature. When it’s off it should read nothing. When on it should show something.
Next is which one is the ground. And power. Usually only matters if it’s a led vs a bulb.
How many wires come off your switch?
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12-23-2017, 02:45 AM
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#6
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Join Date: Oct 2013
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Quote:
Originally Posted by boyguan
Hard to figure out your issue.
Some dimmers get dim with power and some with a ground. Test your switch with a multimeter.
Use the continuity feature. When it’s off it should read nothing. When on it should show something.
Next is which one is the ground. And power. Usually only matters if it’s a led vs a bulb.
How many wires come off your switch?
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The multimeter is definitely user error... I can't get readings off any wire in the dash whether or not car is on. The only readings I've got off the multimeter was when testing battery posts and that number was 24V?
Four wires come off the switch (as seen in the Rago diagram from my first post). The issue with the Rago diagram is that connection wires from the lights are NOT the same colors as as in real life.
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2013 T4R TE w/ KDSS, ICON Ext Travel w/ ICON tubular UCA, Metal Tech upper and lower links, Sonoran Steel KDSS panhard bar, RCI aluminum skids, All Pro APEX sliders, 285/75/17 Yokohama Geolander MT, BMC, Front Runner rack, C4 front & rear bumper, C4 ladder
Last edited by mattyrides07; 12-23-2017 at 02:01 PM.
Reason: clearer explanation
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12-23-2017, 10:21 AM
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#7
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1) why aren’t the vehicle side wires in the diagram the same wires you are connecting to?
2) what are you connecting to??
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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1995 ECR33 GTS-T (sold)
1990 s13 coupe TONS of work
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12-23-2017, 01:53 PM
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#8
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Join Date: Oct 2013
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DZNUTS
1) why aren’t the vehicle side wires in the diagram the same wires you are connecting to?
2) what are you connecting to??
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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1) I can't say why they're different... But it's why I'm having difficulties with the install.
2) The lights are connected to the battery as in the KC diagram. The only difference between their diagram and real life is I have a black wire that comes out instead of brown, and the black wire is simply a wire (no connection piece like the brown in the diagram.
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2013 T4R TE w/ KDSS, ICON Ext Travel w/ ICON tubular UCA, Metal Tech upper and lower links, Sonoran Steel KDSS panhard bar, RCI aluminum skids, All Pro APEX sliders, 285/75/17 Yokohama Geolander MT, BMC, Front Runner rack, C4 front & rear bumper, C4 ladder
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12-23-2017, 02:55 PM
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#9
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I asked once if the switches dimmed and she said they didn’t.
So maybe they’re not meant to be dimmed and that’s what’s causing the problem
My Rago switch is illuminated when the engine is on. When I turn it on another led will light indicating power. The switch works independently of the ignition. I can turn it on anytime with or without the ignition being on.
Last edited by kuh; 01-14-2018 at 01:01 AM.
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12-23-2017, 03:09 PM
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#10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mattyrides07
1) I can't say why they're different... But it's why I'm having difficulties with the install.
2) The lights are connected to the battery as in the KC diagram. The only difference between their diagram and real life is I have a black wire that comes out instead of brown, and the black wire is simply a wire (no connection piece like the brown in the diagram.
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The switch should be wired in between the battery feed and the lights. Your wiring should begin at the battery, go straight to the switch supply/feed/hot side. From there, the lights should be wired onto the load side of the switch. The remaining wire should be connected to the dimmer wire on the truck.
In order to find the dimmer wire, turn your lights on, stab a wire in the harness with the red test lead from your meter and find a good unpainted piece of steel under the dash. Steering column usually works pretty well. Move the dimmer switch, if the voltage decreases as the dash lights dim, congratulations, you’ve found your dimmer wire. If voltage does not decrease, try a different wire until it does. Then it’s just a matter of splicing into said wire with a 3M scotchlock or equivalent in-line splice and you should be good to go.
Let me know if this doesn’t make any sense.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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1995 ECR33 GTS-T (sold)
1990 s13 coupe TONS of work
2005 4Runner Sport V8
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12-23-2017, 04:27 PM
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#11
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Join Date: Oct 2013
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Age: 39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DZNUTS
The switch should be wired in between the battery feed and the lights. Your wiring should begin at the battery, go straight to the switch supply/feed/hot side. From there, the lights should be wired onto the load side of the switch. The remaining wire should be connected to the dimmer wire on the truck.
In order to find the dimmer wire, turn your lights on, stab a wire in the harness with the red test lead from your meter and find a good unpainted piece of steel under the dash. Steering column usually works pretty well. Move the dimmer switch, if the voltage decreases as the dash lights dim, congratulations, you’ve found your dimmer wire. If voltage does not decrease, try a different wire until it does. Then it’s just a matter of splicing into said wire with a 3M scotchlock or equivalent in-line splice and you should be good to go.
Let me know if this doesn’t make any sense.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Makes sense. Thanks. I'll try the multimeter again.
Do I need the ground and supply hooked up to test the load?
I drew the wiring of what I did. Here's first attempt:
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2013 T4R TE w/ KDSS, ICON Ext Travel w/ ICON tubular UCA, Metal Tech upper and lower links, Sonoran Steel KDSS panhard bar, RCI aluminum skids, All Pro APEX sliders, 285/75/17 Yokohama Geolander MT, BMC, Front Runner rack, C4 front & rear bumper, C4 ladder
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12-23-2017, 04:30 PM
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#12
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Join Date: Oct 2013
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I was thinking if I switched the switch red wires around maybe it'd work??? Here's how it's wired now:
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2013 T4R TE w/ KDSS, ICON Ext Travel w/ ICON tubular UCA, Metal Tech upper and lower links, Sonoran Steel KDSS panhard bar, RCI aluminum skids, All Pro APEX sliders, 285/75/17 Yokohama Geolander MT, BMC, Front Runner rack, C4 front & rear bumper, C4 ladder
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12-23-2017, 04:36 PM
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#13
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Join Date: Oct 2013
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Age: 39
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Member
Join Date: Oct 2013
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kuh
I asked once if the switches dimmed and she said they didn’t.
So maybe they’re not meant to be dimmed and that’s what’s causing the problem
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I really hope that's not the case. Attempt #1- The switch is so bright and distracting when ditch lights are on (with the two switch reds connected to the red light harness) and difficult to find when ditch lights are off with no switch lum.
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2013 T4R TE w/ KDSS, ICON Ext Travel w/ ICON tubular UCA, Metal Tech upper and lower links, Sonoran Steel KDSS panhard bar, RCI aluminum skids, All Pro APEX sliders, 285/75/17 Yokohama Geolander MT, BMC, Front Runner rack, C4 front & rear bumper, C4 ladder
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12-23-2017, 04:36 PM
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#14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mattyrides07
I was thinking if I switched the switch red wires around maybe it'd work??? Here's how it's wired now:
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I’d recommend disconnect one at a time and see what happens. I would make sure which one is the ground and apply 12volts to the other wires and see what happens to the switch
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12-24-2017, 09:35 PM
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#15
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Join Date: Oct 2013
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Quote:
Originally Posted by boyguan
I’d recommend disconnect one at a time and see what happens. I would make sure which one is the ground and apply 12volts to the other wires and see what happens to the switch
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Haven't had the time to try anything yet, but did realize the ditch lights stay on permanently after vehicle is turned off and vehicle gets locked (when all other lights shut off even though switch is on)... Just more fodder for you smart ones who are reading this.
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2013 T4R TE w/ KDSS, ICON Ext Travel w/ ICON tubular UCA, Metal Tech upper and lower links, Sonoran Steel KDSS panhard bar, RCI aluminum skids, All Pro APEX sliders, 285/75/17 Yokohama Geolander MT, BMC, Front Runner rack, C4 front & rear bumper, C4 ladder
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