12-28-2017, 09:50 AM
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#16
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Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: New York
Posts: 38
Real Name: Joey
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Thanks OP for this, worked like a charm this morning at 14 degrees!
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12-28-2017, 09:56 AM
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#17
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Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: Midlothian VA
Posts: 540
Real Name: George
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Join Date: Aug 2017
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Antman
I seem to recall that it was on models with dual zone only- as in LE's.
I guarantee you my SR5P doesn't have it. I freeze my balls for at least 5 mins when it's cold out, lol.
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Heated seats...ma' balls be warm and toasty.
Everything else is frozen.
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12-28-2017, 10:40 AM
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#18
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Nevada
Posts: 1,184
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I have PTC 1 and PTC 2 fuses in place but NO PTC 3. What does this mean? What exactly am i looking for if i crawl under the passenger side? My 4runner came out of California so maybe they don't equip these with PTC heaters?
Now when you say headlight dimmer off. Do you mean headlights off completely or will it work in DRL mode?
EDIT:
I'm going to say that it does indeed work. I started to feel slight heat within a minute and half coming from the vents. The temp gauge was still on the C. Can someone confirm what PTC No.3 Fuse is for? Heated seats?
Last edited by 1jzgte; 12-28-2017 at 05:18 PM.
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12-29-2017, 11:22 AM
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#19
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Midland, MI
Age: 36
Posts: 1,983
Real Name: Charles
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Senior Member
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Quote:
Originally Posted by walterego
EDIT: Instead of crawling on your passenger side floor, you can look under the hood in the fuse/relay box and see if there are relays labeled PTC No. 1,2,3. See attached.
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It does indeed have the PTC heater - I confirmed the fuses and gave it a try - nothing to write home about but far better then nothing. After about 2-3minutes the air goes from "frostbite" to just plain cold and then shortly after you can feel a bit of warmth but by then the coolant gauge is starting to come off the bottom peg so not sure if thats the PTC getting warmer or the coolant starting to supply heat.
Good to know we have it and thanks for the easy confirmation
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12-29-2017, 11:28 AM
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#20
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Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: Tucson, AZ
Posts: 153
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My 13 TE has it, manual controls. After about a minute it was putting out warm enough air to feel comfortable and get me by until the engine warmed up. Awesome!
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12-29-2017, 12:50 PM
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#21
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Junior Member
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Join Date: Apr 2017
Posts: 19
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Headlight dimmer switch? Is that the instrument cluster dimmer switch?
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12-29-2017, 01:49 PM
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#22
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Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Fernley, Nevada
Age: 83
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Real Name: Ron
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Join Date: Dec 2014
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Age: 83
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Yes, my 2013 SR5 has it (Sold new in New Jersey). I don't know if it would have had it if it had originally come from California/Nevada but I would imagine it would.
This past couple of weeks it has been between 5 and 10 degrees every morning and has helped.
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Totally stock 2013 SR5 4WD. Have added Toyo Open Country M/T LT 265/70-R17 (E) tires the first week I owned it. Added second set of Toyo M/Ts at 86900 miles.Added RCI OFF-ROAD Rock Slidersat 84000 miles. Added RCI OFF-ROAD front skid plate at 90,000 miles.  Daily driver and so far spending about 30% of time/mileage off-road. Previous truck 2004 Land Rover Discovery that also spent about a third of it's life off-road. I HANG AROUND HERE "THE T4R FASHION FORUM" JUST FOR LAUGHS.
Perfect vehicle as it stands for northern Nevada terrain. Keep it stock - it'll go most anywhere as is.
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12-29-2017, 02:56 PM
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#23
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Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Houston, Texas
Posts: 10
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It worked today in my Houston bought 2018 limited. Thanks for the tip - makes what I paid this forum worth it  Took about a minute 15 to get warm, but that was starting from a relatively warmer 44 degrees outside. I wonder why they programmed it for headlights off? You wouldn’t think that lights and heater element would be a big drain on the battery with the engine running, but maybe it’s an issue in really cold weather.
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12-29-2017, 06:35 PM
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#24
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Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: Toronto
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+1 for the factory block heater, we're in the -25 range at night in the Toronto area and it does the trick, the melting snow on the hood in the pic is typically where I see it when plugged in from residual heat loss, so I know it's doing something and certainly helps on the cold crank. I'll have to pay more attention to the air temp coming out of the vents after it's running after a cold start at work... I've got a remote start installed (Viper) so typically there is some warmth coming out already by the time I get across my parking lot to it.
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12-29-2017, 07:59 PM
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#25
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Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Red Stick Louisiana
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Quote:
Originally Posted by walterego
According to the repair manual, the following conditions must be met: - Engine running (1250 rpm or more)
- Temperature setting MAX HOT
- Outside temperature 10°C (50°F) or less
- Engine coolant temperature 73°C (163°F) - 79°C (174°F) or less
- Headlight dimmer switch off
- Blower switch on
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Worked for me this morning
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12-30-2017, 12:29 AM
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#26
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Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: CO
Posts: 912
Real Name: Tom
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2016 4Runner SR5
Remote start, problem solved lol. You should be warming the engine up before driving it anyway, especially in very low temps. With that said, this is a cool piece of info that I will test on my 2016 later on today when I head out.
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-With modern engines and fluids, there is no need to let your car idle for any period of time to "warm up". Starting the engine and driving off will do no harm, and this how how many vehicles (at least the test vehicles I drove) are tested. Granted, you should not be driving like a crazy person from a cold soak, but any normal driving style will be fine.
-Also, why the hell does the dimmer position have to be off? I really hope I have this, but my dimmer is never off so maybe I just never used it?
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12-30-2017, 12:54 AM
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#27
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Nevada
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headlight dimmer completely off? as in turn off DRL as well?
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12-30-2017, 01:05 AM
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#28
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Join Date: Oct 2016
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 17KT4R
+1 for the factory block heater, we're in the -25 range at night in the Toronto area and it does the trick, the melting snow on the hood in the pic is typically where I see it when plugged in from residual heat loss, so I know it's doing something and certainly helps on the cold crank. I'll have to pay more attention to the air temp coming out of the vents after it's running after a cold start at work... I've got a remote start installed (Viper) so typically there is some warmth coming out already by the time I get across my parking lot to it.
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Question: With just the block heater running and WITHOUT remote starting, where does the needle point on your temp gauge when you fire up the car?
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12-30-2017, 09:00 PM
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#29
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Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: canadian cave
Posts: 101
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Location: canadian cave
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-45 degrees celsius tonight
Christmas was great up here, snow and the polar vortex set in,when plugged in the needle is still on cold when you start it up just moves up into the warm zone, faster than not plugged in. Checked out that to see if that electric heater gizmo worked, and yup, definitely warmer air than the -40 degrees celsius with everything on max and that was just driving to the end of the street. Now time to go ice fishing!
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12-30-2017, 11:50 PM
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#30
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Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: MB Canada
Posts: 457
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Quote:
Originally Posted by walterego
According to the repair manual, the following conditions must be met: - Engine running (1250 rpm or more)
- Temperature setting MAX HOT
- Outside temperature 10°C (50°F) or less
- Engine coolant temperature 73°C (163°F) - 79°C (174°F) or less
- Headlight dimmer switch off
- Blower switch on
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Headlight dimmer switch off....would that mean having it on auto would prevent it from kicking in?
It's current -31 c or -24 f here, so could really use this! lol
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