Nice, what kelvin did you end up going with?
Steve

Thanks!

Went with the Extreme HID kit with Philips bulb upgrade for the 4Runner, and decided to try the Extreme LED Pro H4 kit for my older Tundra.

Good move!! Let us know how they work out for you.

Steve

If I want to go matching LEDs for hi, low, drl, and fog on a 2013, what do I need to get? How hard is install?

@XenonDepot

I am looking at the H11 Xtreme LED Pro Headlight Kit for my '18 SR5 and am just wondering if you could explain the canbus option to me a bit?

Here is a great install guide form a 2017 4Runner which should be about the same as a 2013:

2017 Toyota 4Runner LED Kit review | 2017 Toyota 4Runner LED kit Install Guide

Danny

You won't need the canbus for the low beams but to answer your question, the canbus option includes our PWM anti-flicker module which is designed to prevent flickering, error codes and also allow DRL lights to work.

Danny

Perfect, thanks Danny.

I've had my 4runner for almost a year and have been trying to figure out what I want to upgrade the headlights with. Yeah they are not the greatest in output, but they are still better than my 3rd gen.

I've done a ton of research on here and have found a few posts of people purchasing the HID kit than later removing it due to getting flashing by oncoming motorists quite a bit due to the brightness. Although this could be from improperly aimed headlights as well. This LED kit may be a great alternative.

Can anyone comment on the reliability difference between the LED kit and the HID kit? I understand the HID kit is brighter, however I know a few people that have had problems with the ballasts in HID kits (they were morimoto brand) going bad. I see the LED kit comes with an "LED driver" and the bulb life is rated for 50,000 hours. The HID kit bulb is rated for ~3,000 hours. I guess I could keep a spare ballast and bulb if I decide to go with the HID kit.

I've also heard that LED bulbs run cooler and are more prone to accumulating snow/ice on the headlight since they won't melt it off.

thanks in advance

This is really more due to the fact that LED bulbs are not pushing any of the heat they generate Forward, and must send it all Backwards instead. Halogens and HIDs shine light in all directions and some of that disperses into the surrounding area as heat.

Ultimately, both HIDs and LEDs draw less power than stock halogens of comparable fitment, so if snow/ice accumulation on the headlight lenses is a common issue where you live, you are likely to find that sort of problem with both types.

~Robert

Sorry, I may have missed this earlier. Why do you not need the canbus option that includes the PWM anti-flicker module for the low beams?

Will it not flicker?

Basically, I am ready to order the H11 XTREME LED PROs for my low beam on a 2016 Trial.

Also, If I want yellow fog lights are these a good option? YELLOW PHILIPS H11 LED FOG BULB

Is it ok if the wires inside the compartment are touching the heat sink fins? How hot do they get?

Do the low beams require canbus as well?

I had the same concerns with the potential for HID glare off the road, I suppose adjustment tweaks are the key for sure but I didn't want to get involved with that and also the drilling of the dust caps but I'm sure if the grommet is properly installed there is no concerns. Regardless - did my research too and went with the SL1 LED Bulbs from Diode Dynamics ( only because I already have the DD switchbacks for signals ).

Recently installed - They matched perfectly of course (5600K I think) and for sure they seem to have a sharper pattern and cut off than the oem halogens did sitting in the projector lens. The install was no problem, the bulbs clicked in just fine with a push and all tucked in nicely within the cavity. Check them out as an option I am very impressed with them.

I replaced my highs with the Phillips halogen option from XD. Very pleased with their performance too.

@ForgetYourMap - The 4runner uses a stable 12V signal for the low beams. The CANbus module is needed if the signal from the car's harness is not stable (DRL).
@transistor - Heat sink fins get warm, as they're doing their job shedding heat off the LED emitters. You don't have to worry about wires touching them though.
@Cde1218 - No, not needed.

Just make sure that when you install the H11 Xtreme LED pro kit in the low beams that the diodes are facing 3 & 9 o'clock. You twist the H11 bulb into place, and in some cases the diodes don't end up perfectly aligned at 3 & 9. The Xtreme LED PRO bulb is clockable, so that you can optimize the diode placement once you twist the bulb into place. It's not the greatest picture, but take a look at the difference between having the diodes at 3 & 9 vs 12 & 6:



Steve