They would be if not aligned. Here they are aligned:




Link to full review: 2018 4Runner Pro LED Upgrade | 4runner LED headlight testing




Link to full review: 2017 Toyota 4Runner LED Kit review | 2017 Toyota 4Runner LED kit Install Guide



Link to full review: 2017 Lexus CT200h LED Kit review | 2017 Lexus ct200H LED kit before / after

Video:

https://www.facebook.com/xenondepot/...8463443330068/

Steve

what are those fin/fan things for?

The aluminum fins are the LED bulb's heat sink. They need to be separated and folded out inside your housing in order to properly disperse the heat generated and thrown backwards by the bulb/other components.

~Robert

When used in the high beam spot - is it ok that the heat sinks are exposed and not covered inside any type of housing?

Yes, no problem at all.

Steve

I had purchased the early version of the XenonDepot H11 LED HL kit back in 2016.

After seeing the latest version of the Xtreme Pro kit I decided I would give it a try and see if it was worth it.

@XenonDepot graciously offered a price break since I was replacing the older kit with the newer one so I ordered them and put them in.

There is certainly a bigger "hot spot" since these new ones are clock-able.

I set both the new ones to 3 and 9 o-clock. Basically one side of the stalk with the LED chips is completely facing forward.

I took pictures facing my garage doors with the front bumper about 24' away. My driveway slopes down as you back away from the garage so don't focus on the height of the light on the doors other than to see that the upper cut-off is at the same place for all lights.

DSLR camera set to:
400 ISO
2.8 aperature
1/13 exposure
lens at 24mm
Shot RAW converted to jpg.

The first picture is the original XenonDepot H11 LED set purchased in June of 2016. Picture is untouched in the sense that I did not perform any corrections from the above settings other than to convert to jpg of-course.

Second picture is the new XenonDepot Xtreme Pro LED on the Driver side and the original LED on the passenger side. Again, no adjustments from the above settings.

Third picture is the new XenonDepot Xtreme Pro LED on both lowbeams. No adjustments from above settings.

Fourth picture is the same as the original H11 LED set but now the exposure was auto corrected in LightRoom. there really isn't a "hot-spot" but a slim bright-spot near the top cut-off.

Fifth is the new Xtreme LED on the driver side, original LED on the passenger side and exposure is auto corrected. You can start to see the bigger hot-spot on the driver side due to the LED's facing straight out to the headlight lens.

Sixth has the new Xtreme LED on both low beams, also auto-corrected for exposure. Now you can see the full "hot-spot" from both headlights.

Attached Images

           

I solved the issue. I guess when I siliconed around the grommet there was still some moisture in the housing. I pulled the dust cover and used a hair dryer to blow hot air into the housing through the dust cover opening. I did this for an hour at a time, twice. Once around lunch time and second later in the afternoon. Since then, I have not seen any moisture! Back to loving the LED lights!

@Boyds4Runner - Thank you for posting this great comparison between our first and 3rd generation LED kits! Hope you are happy with the upgrade

I've been an outspoken critic of HID and LED conversions, but I'll go ahead and admit that I'm highly tempted to buy a set of these, haha. Standard halogen bulbs just look so out of place on a 2018 vehicle, and these LEDs seem that they may perform adequately and without excessive glare. And I've also got to give credit where credit's due regarding XD's customer service on this forum.

Thank for posting some feedback! Let us know if you end up purchasing the Xtreme LED Pro kit and what your thoughts are after installing them.

Danny

Two questions:

Any issues with the flicker on the DRL function of the high-beam LED bulb? Will it damage the bulb or decrease the life of the bulb?

What angle do the bulbs need to be set at on low-beam to get the LED to line up at the 3 and 9 position?

Thanks!

I am running these bulbs in my Sequoia and have to say they make a world of difference.

1- You'll need to add a canbus/PWM module to the install to ensure the lights don't flicker in DRL mode. However, this will cause the lights to be on at full brightness in DRL.

2- We recommend the LED diodes on the bulb to face 3 and 9 o'clock for best results.

Danny

The question I have is what if you DON'T use the PWM module. I wouldn't want to have the DRL on at full blast as that would be illegal, but will the flicker voltage do any potential damage to the LED lights?

Before I pull the trigger on these, are there any issues with heat build up with having the heatsink bottled up behind the dust cover? What about melting or damage to the housing from direct contact with the heatsink? Not quite sure how how hot they get (I possibly remember someone saying they couldn't touch it, it was so warm?).

Also, how stable are they as far as output? I would guess it gets reduced a bit once they've heated up, but is it a big decrease? I know the cheapo LEDs have a problem with this, but I'm assuming XD did tested this well.

I have installed the LED low beams kit from xenonHIDs. I see people argue that we should be going with the HIDs for higher output. As it is with the LEDs, people flash me for having too bright of headlights quite often. I see no purpose in having even brighter lights. The LEDs were very easy to install myself and have given me zero problems for the last 4 months I’ve had them. For those reasons I’d recommend the LEDs as they look great and really do a lot to brighten my view at night. I don’t see it being nessesary to go further although I would consider yellow LED fogs to add to the look.