02-12-2018, 11:50 PM
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#31
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Join Date: Oct 2014
Posts: 830
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sandcrawler
i think there's value in a plug-and-play kit. what it's "worth" is up to the buyer, really.
i will submit, however, that most dog owners would appreciate, if not prefer, a recessed push-button for the hatch release...
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seconding this!!!!
@ nytosc
please make it a harder to inadvertently press.
overall i know the haters are going to hate but i think this is a cool idea, and charging for it is your choice and no one else's.
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SOLD 2010 MGM TE w/ KDSS SOLD
Consolidated Slider Info Thread :: 5th Gen Features/Models/Differences :: New member? Please read this.
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02-13-2018, 12:31 AM
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#32
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Member
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Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: Slaughter Beach
Posts: 68
Real Name: scottie
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Member
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: Slaughter Beach
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Real Name: scottie
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Sorry, but right off the bat, no offense intended to anyone at all, but I couldnt tell you for a million who is responsible for this kit now.
See in the movies when someone is trapped in the trunk n they gotta plasma cut their way to a wire for signaling? Not any more! Been thinking bout this for some time now, escape from within kinda deal. Got the runner, totally forgot about this concept/idea n adding something like this is master clutch.
So my thanks to the creators n whomever is kindly putting this shindig together.
Now, importantly...the buttons for the window, key in ignition? Cause that's right next to the stock rear window switch(in my '16, dunno if it differs)
Horrible question, perhaps? Break the flow of terror, yet to be seen
Regardless, this is one of those things, making life easier...winning
I'd be in
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02-13-2018, 12:45 AM
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#33
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Join Date: May 2017
Location: San Diego
Posts: 253
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Thank you everyone for the interest!
To address On Point's concern:
I am not a business- I am a car enthusiast working out of his cramped garage to build up a few of these kits. This whole thing started after I wanted my 4R to have a certain function that it didn't from the factory. I had to do a bulk buy on wire and terminals plus I purchased a much better soldering iron than I already had to solder to the momentary switch. I was proud and figured it was a cool feature so people would possibly be interested.
I must say, I feel it is entitled to think that everything should be free. It takes roughly 20 minutes to build one of these up with electrical test (I do 100% electrical continuity with my Fluke multimeter). Add in shipping, paypal fees, the two switches, bulk wire, terminals, heat shrink along with the hours it took to figure this out on both a 4th and 5th gen plus write up instructions and you'll see I am not making a killing on these.
I am doing this as a fun little hobby to pay for random mods on my 4Runner. So far, I used the profits from the run of 4th gen parts to buy a HiLift and to do the rear diff mod. Next up, I want to get some 80/20 aluminum and build a roof rack.
OK now that that rant is over, regarding the pet proof switch- I do include a few extra feet of wire so you can relocate this around if you'd like, and I am happy to include a few additional feet in there as well. The recessed switch is a good idea, but i think the best option would be to go with a Mil Spec switch. In a past life, I was a sales engineer for an aerospace electronics company. We manufactured switches that had very high engagement forces that were used on the joystick of aircraft for fire controls.
These switches are not cheap in the least bit- roughly $30 each. I would be happy to incorporate one of these into the build and feel they would easily be pet proof. If anyone has any other switch ideas, please feel free to share.
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02-13-2018, 12:47 AM
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#34
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Member
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Join Date: May 2017
Location: San Diego
Posts: 253
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Join Date: May 2017
Location: San Diego
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scottiezilla
Sorry, but right off the bat, no offense intended to anyone at all, but I couldnt tell you for a million who is responsible for this kit now.
See in the movies when someone is trapped in the trunk n they gotta plasma cut their way to a wire for signaling? Not any more! Been thinking bout this for some time now, escape from within kinda deal. Got the runner, totally forgot about this concept/idea n adding something like this is master clutch.
So my thanks to the creators n whomever is kindly putting this shindig together.
Now, importantly...the buttons for the window, key in ignition? Cause that's right next to the stock rear window switch(in my '16, dunno if it differs)
Horrible question, perhaps? Break the flow of terror, yet to be seen
Regardless, this is one of those things, making life easier...winning
I'd be in
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To answer your question, key out of the ignition. That way, in the middle of the night, you can roll the window up or down, temperature dependent, without having to crawl up to the front and put the key in the ignition.
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02-13-2018, 01:09 AM
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#35
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Member
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Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: Slaughter Beach
Posts: 68
Real Name: scottie
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Member
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: Slaughter Beach
Posts: 68
Real Name: scottie
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bangarang
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02-13-2018, 01:31 AM
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#36
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Southern California
Posts: 1,836
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Southern California
Posts: 1,836
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nytosc
...I wanted my 4R to have a certain function that it didn't from the factory....
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Good idea. Toyota should send its engineers away from the mall and send them to real off-road / overlanding / camping trips.
It disappointing that after 34 years, Toyota still hasn't figured out that people who sleep in the back of he 4Runner have to crawl over to the driver's seat to:
1) turn on ignition, roll down the window (in the first-gen), open the tailgate/liftgate, then crawl back to the rear to get out through the back,
2) Turn tail lights on in order to turn the rear deck lights on.
I fixed both oversight on my first-gen.
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86 4Runner, 22R-Eliable, 5-Speed Manual, dlx. WHAT'S YOURS?
If you want us to help from afar please let us see, hear, feel what you're dealing with.
A picture paints a thousand words.
Toyota components are bullet-proof. Issues often arise from poor wiring, assembly and/or maintenance. Suspect those first.
Next only to our senses, the multi-meter is the most important electrical diagnostic tool. Spend $6 at Harbor Freight or $$$ blindly replacing parts.
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02-13-2018, 07:58 AM
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#37
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Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: Northern Illinois
Posts: 260
Real Name: Mark & Merri Morrall
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Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: Northern Illinois
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Real Name: Mark & Merri Morrall
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nklxwcyz
Bit harsh, eh?
OP spent time figuring out how to do this, has assembled all the parts, and is willing to sell what amounts to a plug-and-play kit. I'm pretty sure most forum members (myself included), couldn't have figured this out on our own.
Nothing wrong with a little entrepreneurship.
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'Merica!
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02-13-2018, 09:16 AM
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#38
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Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: 602 AZ
Posts: 332
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Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: 602 AZ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HerT4R
overall i know the haters are going to hate but i think this is a cool idea, and charging for it is your choice and no one else's.
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There only seems to be one hater in here
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02-13-2018, 09:57 AM
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#39
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Beacon NY
Posts: 3,678
Real Name: Patrick
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Ordered....thanks
@ nytosc
for a great idea!
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02-13-2018, 11:32 AM
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#40
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Join Date: Mar 2017
Location: Texas
Posts: 410
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Join Date: Mar 2017
Location: Texas
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Ordered! Ill post a detailed writeup hopefully by next weekend! nice mod op
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02-13-2018, 11:49 AM
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#41
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Member
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Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: CA
Posts: 83
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Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: CA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nytosc
Thank you everyone for the interest!
To address On Point's concern:
I am not a business- I am a car enthusiast working out of his cramped garage to build up a few of these kits. This whole thing started after I wanted my 4R to have a certain function that it didn't from the factory. I had to do a bulk buy on wire and terminals plus I purchased a much better soldering iron than I already had to solder to the momentary switch. I was proud and figured it was a cool feature so people would possibly be interested.
I must say, I feel it is entitled to think that everything should be free. It takes roughly 20 minutes to build one of these up with electrical test (I do 100% electrical continuity with my Fluke multimeter). Add in shipping, paypal fees, the two switches, bulk wire, terminals, heat shrink along with the hours it took to figure this out on both a 4th and 5th gen plus write up instructions and you'll see I am not making a killing on these.
I am doing this as a fun little hobby to pay for random mods on my 4Runner. So far, I used the profits from the run of 4th gen parts to buy a HiLift and to do the rear diff mod. Next up, I want to get some 80/20 aluminum and build a roof rack.
OK now that that rant is over, regarding the pet proof switch- I do include a few extra feet of wire so you can relocate this around if you'd like, and I am happy to include a few additional feet in there as well. The recessed switch is a good idea, but i think the best option would be to go with a Mil Spec switch. In a past life, I was a sales engineer for an aerospace electronics company. We manufactured switches that had very high engagement forces that were used on the joystick of aircraft for fire controls.
These switches are not cheap in the least bit- roughly $30 each. I would be happy to incorporate one of these into the build and feel they would easily be pet proof. If anyone has any other switch ideas, please feel free to share.
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I'd want something that could lock. Similar to a power tool like a table saw where you can keep kids etc from turning it on. Though ina vehicle you may/will lose that little pull out plastic "key", so maybe something like this would be good to keep pets (or sleeping people, or rather sleeping until they fall out) from bumping it
https://spemco.com/v1d2sw0b-aze00-0-...e-safety-lock/
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02-13-2018, 12:30 PM
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#42
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: Lexington, Ohio
Posts: 1,867
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Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: Lexington, Ohio
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I think it's awesome, and will be ordering.
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"How rare that we can point ourselves inevitably west and go, go, go. Run out the highway and the hills. Slide our fingertips over the creases and the valleys of the impossibility that is America. You can’t grasp its vastness from a plane. It’s diversity from a map. You have to put your feet on the ground. Your hands in the dirt." - Zach Bowman
Photos, mods & trip reports
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02-16-2018, 01:00 AM
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#43
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: Lexington, Ohio
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^
I ordered right after I posted the above, 1.5 days later I got the kit from the OP (we are both in Calif though, but that's fast shipping).
Installed it right after I got it, went okay, and the OP was immediately responsive to any questions I had. Works great and I'm quite pleased.
You can debate the cost-effectiveness of it all day long but in the end, I got a mod I've wanted for a while, didn't spend a ton on it, got to tinker on my truck, and got to support a forum member in the process. That's a win-win-win-win!
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"How rare that we can point ourselves inevitably west and go, go, go. Run out the highway and the hills. Slide our fingertips over the creases and the valleys of the impossibility that is America. You can’t grasp its vastness from a plane. It’s diversity from a map. You have to put your feet on the ground. Your hands in the dirt." - Zach Bowman
Photos, mods & trip reports
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02-16-2018, 10:18 AM
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#44
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Member
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Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: USA
Posts: 223
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Member
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: USA
Posts: 223
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I am interested in this product. Curious, how much of the side panel did you have to remove? Just pry back the top half? Or is it possible to mount the controls on the hatch?
The reason I’m asking is that my storage box is bolted to the floor and I would have to disassemble it to unbolt the box for security and safety during a roll over.
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2016 TEP, Elka 2.5 RR Adj F&R, Chaos UCA & LCA, OME 899, KO2 285/70E, Wheeler F&R Bumps, BMC, Spindle Gussets, Cam Tabs, Nitro 4.88 Gearing, Tranny Cooler, Hefty Fab F&R Bumpers Dual w/ ladder, Warn Plat 12s, Icon Pan & Billet Rear Links, OCD Links, GFC RTT, RCI Sliders, Every RCI Skid Plate (In Alum if avail), SCS Stealth 6 Rims, ARB Twin Comp, ARB 2500 Awn, Quick Pitch Shower Awn, Compustar T11 & RMS, Dual 42" drawers W/ Adj sleep/dog height platform (2nd Row Removed) Switch Pros, Baja LP9's, Squadron & S2 Pros, Rock Lights, Dometic CFX3 35qt.
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02-16-2018, 11:16 AM
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#45
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Mississauga, ON
Posts: 1,162
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I have no problem with selling/buying this kit, it's a hardware after all. The only thing I wish there was at least basic description of what involved in the installation. The switch looks like a good idea, I would just try to relocate it to a place where it's not likely to be activated by moved cargo or use some sort of tab which need to be flicked open to access the switch. However since I usually afraid (or very careful) when it comes to removing panels and cutting holes in the truck I normally try to access what needs to be done for the mod, things I can potentially screw up and and if it worth risk for me : )
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