03-31-2018, 09:45 PM
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#16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dirtman
Thanks. I hav been needing to do this on my 2010 SR5 and I too live in a corrosive place. I happen to live in the rainiest place in the US and it also happens to have the salty sea air.
How long did this actually take you? I’m trying to get a general idea of how much time I need to set aside. This also happens to be my only car right now so I don’t want to have issues before I get started. Thanks!
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He advised 1 hour per side in his write up.
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03-31-2018, 10:30 PM
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#17
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Join Date: Feb 2012
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That's interesting. I thought I remembered hearing these were permanent installations, and you'd have to get an entire new LCA if the ball joint ever goes bad.
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2010 TE KDSS|275/70R17 Goodyear MT/Rs|Front Bilstein 5100s @ 2.5", rear Bilstein 5100s & 2" Icon lift springs|RR sliders|RCI skid plates|BudBuilt diff skid|Sonoran Steel HD rear lower links|RCI rear lower link bracket skid plates
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04-10-2018, 07:22 PM
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#18
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Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Fort Mac AB / Cape Breton NS
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shrub1
He advised 1 hour per side in his write up.
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1 hour with no rust I mentioned , had 2-3 hours in per side , make sure you have big snipes , ocy/act , big hammers ,3/4 drive power handle , etc before even thinking about doing it
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04-10-2018, 07:27 PM
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#19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by STX4Runner
That's interesting. I thought I remembered hearing these were permanent installations, and you'd have to get an entire new LCA if the ball joint ever goes bad.
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Most people go this route because the time wasted and frustration of trying to pop out the ball joints from a LCA arent worth it
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'12 Silver 4Runner SR5: 14+ facelift, CBI front, CBI Rear, Warn EVO 10-S, ARB Snorkel, Baja Designs 30" S8, Squadron Sports, S2 Rack Lights, King 2.5 Suspension, OME 899, 33" Cooper ST Maxx, Full CBI Skids, Metaltech Sliders, GFC Tent, ARB Awning
Xtremluck's 2012 SR5 Build Thread
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04-10-2018, 07:56 PM
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#20
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Join Date: Apr 2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Xtremluck
Most people go this route because the time wasted and frustration of trying to pop out the ball joints from a LCA arent worth it
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In my case it would of been $1000 for 2 factory LCA with a dirty ,greasy 1 year warranty , and I still would of had to buy cam bolts and sleeves etc because I would of destroyed them taking the LCA off .
I'm into this for $120 for both sides with a lifetime warranty , and they will be easy (or easier ) to remove next time cause I anti seized the s&#t out of everything , they should just come out with the 1/2 impact next time without unbolting the LCA
( only unbolted it to try and use hyd press , got the other side without unbolting and would of got the first one too if I had put more effort into it instead of trying to take easy way out with hyd press )
its a no brainer somewhat to install aftermarket , just for the cost and warranty
Also they are greaseable , I love flushing them out with new grease often , ensuring there are no contaminants in there unlike guessing with the factory ones
And no alliginment needed if ya don't replace LCA's , more cost savings BONUS !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Last edited by caper; 04-10-2018 at 08:07 PM.
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04-10-2018, 07:58 PM
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#21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Xtremluck
Most people go this route because the time wasted and frustration of trying to pop out the ball joints from a LCA arent worth it
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I remember doing this job on my Expedition. I thought I would just spend a couple hours swapping the ball joints and replacing the air suspension. Ended up having it up on jack stands for 2 days of hell while my neighbors thought I had lost my mind because I was cursing so loud and throwing things.
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04-10-2018, 07:58 PM
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#22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by caper
In my case it would of been $1000 for 2 factory LCA with a dirty ,greasy 1 year warranty , and I still would of had to buy cam bolts and sleeves etc because I would of destroyed them taking the LCA off .
I'm into this for $120 for both sides with a lifetime warranty , and they will be easy (or easier ) to remove next time cause I anti seized the s&#t out of everything , they should just come out with the 1/2 impact next time without unbolting the LCA , its a no brainer somewhat
Also they are greaseable , I love flushing them out with grease knowing there are no contaminants in there unlike the factorys
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I seriously dread the day I have to do this. Did your LBJs have a lot of play?
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'12 Silver 4Runner SR5: 14+ facelift, CBI front, CBI Rear, Warn EVO 10-S, ARB Snorkel, Baja Designs 30" S8, Squadron Sports, S2 Rack Lights, King 2.5 Suspension, OME 899, 33" Cooper ST Maxx, Full CBI Skids, Metaltech Sliders, GFC Tent, ARB Awning
Xtremluck's 2012 SR5 Build Thread
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04-10-2018, 08:10 PM
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#23
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Join Date: Apr 2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Xtremluck
I seriously dread the day I have to do this. Did your LBJs have a lot of play?
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Yep they were clunking with noticeable up and down play with a pry bar
If you live in a rust free zone it will be easy and an enjoyable task ( if ya got the correct tools at hand), Wasn't that bad for me only a few curse words but then again every job here is a fight with rust so maybe my anger threshold is higher than most for these types of things ,
Last edited by caper; 04-10-2018 at 08:18 PM.
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04-15-2018, 10:52 PM
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#24
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I knew there was no way we would have to replace the entire lower arm. Nice detail on the snap ring size. I'll be doing my own LBJ when the time comes.
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2017 4Runner TRD OR - Progress Thread
295/70/17 BFG KM3, SCS F5 17x9 -38, Front 5100 Rear MT Icon, Dobinson 314 & 701V, Gobi Stealth, RSG Sliders, ECGS 4.56's, Demello Front bumper, Coastal Off Road Rear Bumper
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04-16-2018, 06:15 AM
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#25
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Thanks for writing this up. I have to do my LBJ boots wince they’re kinda torn. Toyota sells just the boot which I purchased but do you think it’s doable without removing the whole LBJ?!
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Neatoneto 2011 Trail Edition Thread
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04-16-2018, 08:58 AM
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#26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by neatoneto
Thanks for writing this up. I have to do my LBJ boots since they’re kinda torn. Toyota sells just the boot which I purchased but do you think it’s doable without removing the whole LBJ?!
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I have already replaced my boots once on both sides. This is very easy to do and you do not need to remove the ball joint.
Jack up the 4Runner and support with jack stand.
Support lower arm with jack.
Remove two 19mm bolts holding LBJ bracket on.
Lower jack to lower control arm.
Remove the LBJ bracket.
Remove dust boot.
Clean, grease, and install new dust boot.
Reassemble.
Here is a link to the dust cover. These guys ship fast. I reused the original dust boot retaining clip. They aren't the same but the original worked better for me.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/4334569025-...53.m2749.l2649
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2017 4Runner TRD OR - Progress Thread
295/70/17 BFG KM3, SCS F5 17x9 -38, Front 5100 Rear MT Icon, Dobinson 314 & 701V, Gobi Stealth, RSG Sliders, ECGS 4.56's, Demello Front bumper, Coastal Off Road Rear Bumper
IG: dot_tom
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04-29-2018, 02:03 PM
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#27
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Getting ready to do one of my boots - what method do y'all use to separate the LBJ from the LBJ bracket. With the shape of the bracket obviously the two-hammer method won't work and it doesn't look like a pickle fork would either. Do you just use a 3-jaw puller?
Thanks,
Chris
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05-31-2018, 07:10 PM
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#28
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they both came out with a light tap with a hammer for me surprisingly enough , that's where the easy work stopped , from there on out it fought back hard .
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05-31-2018, 07:45 PM
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#29
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When the time comes i'll just bite the bullet and go with these like i did on the nissan.. https://dirtkingfabrication.com/coll...arms-dk-814904
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05-31-2018, 08:12 PM
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#30
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Banned
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So much.. rust... rust... rust... RUUUUUSSSSTTTTTAAAHH!
Please label this thread NSFW. I wasn't ready!
Last edited by Mutant138; 05-31-2018 at 08:13 PM.
Reason: exchanged post for thread
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