I did that yesterday. I took it per the manual 125 mm from the rear.

I got confused and forgot to bolt the crossbars so I had to take the platform off and bolt it up


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I bought the fairing as well and took it off after 2 weeks as it would make flapping noises. i adjusted several times and could not get to sit right or help with wind noise. Sucks as its non-returnable. Rhino owes me!

I adjusted the fairing today and moved it back a bit as it was making this horrid squeaking noise with the rubber pad on the roof. Hopefully it'll fix it


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is it just me or am i doing something wrong.

The last "twist" nut is being stubborn with me and will not go fully perpendicular to the crossbar to securely lock in place.

Is there a technique for this? do you manually rotate the "twist" nut or will it rotate into it's place as you're tightening it? I've been manually rotating it on the other mounting points.

i'm sure you've tried it, but make sure the twist nut is in the correct orientation. also, if i recall, i believe I twisted it manually and then held in place with my finger as I tightened the bolt.

thanks, definitely making sure that it's sitting int he channel nicely.

i'll try to tighten it and see if it rotates itself or if i should revert back to manually rotating it

I did two things

Held it pushed up as I tightened by hand as mention

Also there was very light friction between the bolt and the t-slot nut. I added some blue thread locker and let it dry for about an hour. This really helped to make sure the nut rotated. Frankly I was getting pretty frustrated before I did this

Man, i feel you on that frustration.

The one I was having problems with was the driver's side crossbar closest to the driver's door. I looked and the crossbar channel wasn't in perfect alignment with the backbone so it made the rotation of the t-nut that much more difficult. I loosened up that bolt that secured the crossbar and tapped it into place and it worked out.

So glad it's over because it was getting on my nerves.

I took your advice. I like them. They are functional AND they look good. Thanks for the recommendation. Now I’m just waiting for the lift kit to come in and then I’ll be done...maybe 😂

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I thought that too, then came the gobi ladder, the ko2's, accessories for the rack, sliders...... It'll never end .

I am wrapping up my custom fairing. I used most of the hardware and parts supplied for the Rhino version (which was a terrible design) and flipped them to the top. Designed a 1/8th in aluminum fairing and had it water jet cut, then bedliner. I have a SS hardware sent out to PCbolts for black powder coating.

Wind noise is drastically reduced, very close to no rack levels. Highway speeds with the sunroof open are no longer an issue. Once I get my RTT I will post more photos showing how it will divert the air over it.

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Trying to install the Rhino Rack Backbone on my '16 trail and found the mounting holes in the backbone are smaller than the white plastic threaded tubing that they mount to on the 4runner. I had assumed the white tubes would fit into the mounting holes of the backbone, but they do not.

According to Rhino Rack, the backbone sits on the threaded tubes and the white threaded tubing will be pushed into the roof of the 4runner when the backbone is tightened down.

I asked if the backbone could be removed without the threaded tubing falling into the headliner and Rhino Rack said, "We have never had to remove a backbone and are unsure if the threaded tubing would be accessible if the backbone was ever removed."

Is this how everyone has installed their backbone rails?? They sit on top of the white threaded tubes and are tightened down until the tubes are pushed into the roof?

My apologies for posting on an old thread. I'm at a loss as to how this makes sense or how to proceed...but I"m no genius. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Yes it is okay to perch the backbone rails on top of the plastic bolt sleeves. They will compress as you tighten the bolts to secure the backbone rails to the roof.

One thing I strongly recommend is to go heavy on the butyl tape and waterproofing of the holes. One of my friends recommended this to me after she had to re-do her installation because water got into the headliner of her FJ. When I did mine I put down a double layer of tape and injected silicone into the bolt holes. It’s been five months and no evidence of leaking.

One other thing that I did was to swap out the provided channel nuts with ones that have springs on the back (they’re standard M8 by the way). On my first install attempt I had a terrible time getting the channel nuts to stay square in the channels while I started the bolts on them.

Also I mounted my rack well forward to clear the tailgate ladder so I had to raise it up to clear the roof antenna. I did so with machined aluminum spacers and stainless steel fender washers to provide a generous perch for the c-channel.




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@Arishtat Do you know what size unistrut nuts you used? I can't stand the factory Rhino design and would like to do something similar to the ones you are showing.

Wow, um, yeah, dunno how I missed this but they're M8x6mm channel nuts.

Amazon.com: uxcell M8 x 6mm 304 Stainless Steel Spring Channel Nuts 5pcs for Unistrut Channels: Home Improvement