Thanks for the replies guys! Any comment on how the dampers change the ride when you go over say a rail road track, handling corners dirt roads or the thing that is talked about on this site a lot the nose dip when you hit the brakes?

Ordered my kit from ToyTec back in April. Just got the shipping confirmation yesterday. Cant wait to get these installed!!

It rides much better.

Firmer and more controlled but still smooth. Not stiff or jarring like some other offroad shocks can be. Nose dip is reduced a lot. Big improvement both on and offroad compared to the stock shocks.

It should have come like this from the factory.

For j-dub, this is exactly how I would describe the difference between stock shocks and Eibach Pro Truck shocks. Nose dive is still there but not as extreme and the vehicle feels more planted.

Thanks guys for the responses. This is definitely on my short list of next things to do.

I blew out my Eibach rear shocks on particularly hard trail 3 weeks ago. I kept my OEM shocks. Called Eibach and they said there would be no issues with using the OEM shocks with the Eibach rear springs as the difference is only 1 inch.

Eibach said they would also replace my blown rear shocks under their 1 million mile warranty.

I personally would get the full kit (springs and shocks) over just rear Eibach shocks. Eibach rear springs = a 1 inch lift to rear.

Anyone try to put this lift on a 2022 TRD ORP 4x4 (non KDSS)?

I called Eibach and was told that they haven’t received enough 2022 customer/dealer vehicles to ensure proper fitment yet. Maybe someone on here with a 2022 took the risk and installed it anyway. If so, thoughts?

Anyone use the Eibach front springs on Bilstein 5100's?

I wonder if they give a discount for volunteering vehicles. I am picking up 22 ORP and am somewhat local to them

Doesn’t hurt to call and ask.

If you end up going with this lift could you post some picks?

Out of curiosity, any reason why you don't want to go with the full Eibach Pro Truck kit (shocks+springs) instead of mixing and matching brands? The shocks are pretty much the same price point, but from what I've read the 5100s are supposedly stiffer.

Got my Pro-Truck lift installed on my '14 4Runner Trail three weeks ago after a six month wait due to the backorder issues. Also got the Falken Wildpeak 285s installed to complete the look I was going for. So far, I'm loving the ride and the tires. I initially loved the look of the height and felt it was perfect, but it's definitely settled more than I'd like in the front.

To preface, I measured from the top of the wheel center cap (which provides a flat-ish surface for consistency) to the very bottom of the fender flare, so tire size should not be an issue and should show pure lift. I also measured on a flat driveway, parked in the same spot each time. I know any change in the slope can alter things, but the spot was at least consistent. There is also no added weight to the vehicle from stock.

It's my understanding that the base front lift height with this kit is 2.75" on the bottom clip, and it's my understanding that they are shipped on that clip. I had mine assembled by Wheeler's and there were two more rings visible on each front assembly above where mine was set. I didn't bother measuring immediately after install because I knew it would continuously settle to a certain point.

Both rear measurements were 20.5" before install and 21.5" after, which is the advertised 1" lift. My initial front measurements were 18.2" DF and 17.8" PF. After three weeks, measurements were 19.6" DF and 19.4" PF, which comes out to be around 1.5" lift, accounting for slight variations.

Am I missing something or did I really get over a inch less in lift in the front than I should?

Hello can you please clarify how you made your own spanner wrench? What is the15/16 inch referring to, and the actual punch that fits the holes is 1/4inch? Thank you.

So I did my pro-kit lift last weekend. I managed the install in my garage by myself in about 6 hours. If I would have had another set of hands I think it would have been a 3-4 hours to install. I had no real issues other than the spring compressor I bought - I had a rough time pulling it off the springs once compressed, the lip of the part that grabbed the coil was a little too big. But I managed. I also ended up putting a block of wood on the rear axle and using the stock bottle jack against the bump stop to push the axle down far enough to work the driver's side spring in.

I'm still breaking it in before I take it in for alignment, I'll know then if I need to go get UCR's but for now it looks and works good.

Ride is better than stock, no more nose dive on braking, and even handles a little better. I think I paid around $850 with tax shipped, ended up getting them off Amazon. Before and after pics, as well as after the wheels and tires. I went with Rocktrix RT110's in 17x9 with a -12 offset and Toyo AT3's, 285 70 17. 5 minutes worth of trimming the front bumper and pushing the liner forward and removing the mud guards and no issues rubbing.

(Edit - bad angle on the pictures makes it look like there's still a slight rake, but it's pretty much gone. I will say the passenger side sits slightly higher than the driver's side, but again I'm waiting for it to settle a bit before alignment to see if it straightens itself out).

Overall I'm very, very happy and would recommend it to anyone.

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Looks great, the bronze wheels look good against the red.