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Old 04-22-2018, 09:31 AM #1
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Post lift Rake

Hi folks. Lifted my 2017 TRD Pro yesterday.
Front
King 2.5 wRes. Extended travel(center spacer removed)
SPC UCAs

Rear.
King Custom length
OME 898 Heavy(440lb) rear springs


Pre measurements
Driver Front 20.1" Rear 23"
Passenger 20.5" 23.1/4"

Post 21" 25"
Driver 21 1/4 25"

Additional weight is RCI aluminum skids except the gas tank which is a C4 steel skid, RCI sliders, Front SSO slimline with a warn winch, Arb drawers, arb fridge

I'll try putting the front on a lift and see if I can adjust the shocks. My guess is I may just pull them off and adjust.

Any comments/advice appreciated. The TRD setup is available for local pick up..cost=a case of sam.
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Post lift Rake-prelift-jpg  Post lift Rake-lifted2-jpg 
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Old 04-22-2018, 10:21 AM #2
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Heavier springs up front or close to factory spec with just a lift? That SSO bumper and a winch (~130 pounds) lost me 3/4" up front until I replaced my factory springs with medium weight OME 885's. Adjusting the front shocks MIGHT help by adding preload to the springs, but another pair of springs to offset the extra weight up front would probably be a better bet.
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Old 04-22-2018, 11:33 AM #3
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Unless you add a bumper or run it loaded all the time, those springs are going to feel like a sledgehammer on rough roads--and they're not going to settle down ever.
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Old 04-22-2018, 02:05 PM #4
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I agree with the others about needing to go with lighter rear springs if you are not doing a rear bumper. Your ride is going to feel crappy. I have similar lift Kings 700lb springs in front set at 6 threads showing. Rear I have dobinsons 2” 327’s. Had small rake until I added the bumper. Now it is even but I wish I had had the small rake back so I might switch to 3” 701v rear springs. I do have a 3rd row as well. Before and after bumper pics.
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Post lift Rake-4bc32198-0241-4301-9bae-6c0e707053d4-jpg  Post lift Rake-04981667-f435-4ca4-9f0e-7e2d374a744e-jpg 
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Old 04-22-2018, 02:22 PM #5
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So I gotta go with that Pelfrey bumper then?? HA..

I also have a pair of Toytec Superflex Springs. I may try that, but the biggest problem is that I really got very little lift out of the front springs over the TRD set up. I still rub on sharp turns with 275s and spacers. And I already trimmed the fender and moved wheel well forward.

I have no threads showing. I spoke with the folks at Filthy before hand and they had all the data on my equipment. We went with the heavier rear as I am planning a rear bumper at some point.

I'll buzz those folks tomorrow. Its not my daily, but I do use it in the winter on some long commutes. Wife has a Q7 and we use that for the family trips, so I dont care too much about the harshness.

Doable but a pain in my a$$ to swap out the springs.

Thanks...Any other advice on weather I should adjust the preload or go with stronger springs. Its only another 140lbs additional with the bumper and winch.
And sliders and skids split between front and back. THere is way more rake than it looks like in the photo
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Old 04-22-2018, 02:30 PM #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stephan07 View Post
So I gotta go with that Pelfrey bumper then?? HA..

I also have a pair of Toytec Superflex Springs. I may try that, but the biggest problem is that I really got very little lift out of the front springs over the TRD set up. I still rub on sharp turns with 275s and spacers. And I already trimmed the fender and moved wheel well forward.

I have no threads showing. I spoke with the folks at Filthy before hand and they had all the data on my equipment. We went with the heavier rear as I am planning a rear bumper at some point.

I'll buzz those folks tomorrow. Its not my daily, but I do use it in the winter on some long commutes. Wife has a Q7 and we use that for the family trips, so I dont care too much about the harshness.

Doable but a pain in my a$$ to swap out the springs.

Thanks...Any other advice on weather I should adjust the preload or go with stronger springs. Its only another 140lbs additional with the bumper and winch.
And sliders and skids split between front and back. THere is way more rake than it looks like in the photo
I would just adjust the preload a bit. Don’t spend the extra money on springs if you achieve the results you are trying to get for free.
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Old 04-22-2018, 03:31 PM #7
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Sounds good. THe guys at filthy claim a free spring exchange for any issues such as this. We will see. They are very knowledgable and great staff. Will fill you in...
The real pain in my butt was snapping a bolt in the sway bar reconnect. Wasn't using a Tq wrench just a relatively small Socket wrench. Tried every trick getting her out....98% finished....Pisser.......the sways screws into the reservoir mounts, so worse case a new mount.
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Old 04-22-2018, 05:20 PM #8
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I always wondered why everyone’s solutions to kings is either heavier springs or adding a bunch of preload. Both causing a harsher ride.

A 1/2” top hat spacer (for approx 3/4”-1” of lift) would give you the extra lift to reduce your rake without compromising the ride. I’ve never seen it done with Kings but I’ve always wondered if that would fix this issue. Maybe I’m way off but it’s something I’ve been thinking about myself since I’m likely going with kings on my build.


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Old 04-23-2018, 07:31 AM #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 4runnerlaw View Post
I always wondered why everyone’s solutions to kings is either heavier springs or adding a bunch of preload. Both causing a harsher ride.

A 1/2” top hat spacer (for approx 3/4”-1” of lift) would give you the extra lift to reduce your rake without compromising the ride. I’ve never seen it done with Kings but I’ve always wondered if that would fix this issue. Maybe I’m way off but it’s something I’ve been thinking about myself since I’m likely going with kings on my build.


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im in the same boat. i know guys have used "shims" on icons with great results. some as high as 4.5" on a stage 2 icon setup
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Old 04-23-2018, 10:46 AM #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 4runnerlaw View Post
I always wondered why everyone’s solutions to kings is either heavier springs or adding a bunch of preload. Both causing a harsher ride.

A 1/2” top hat spacer (for approx 3/4”-1” of lift) would give you the extra lift to reduce your rake without compromising the ride. I’ve never seen it done with Kings but I’ve always wondered if that would fix this issue. Maybe I’m way off but it’s something I’ve been thinking about myself since I’m likely going with kings on my build.
I ONLY recommended heavier springs to offset the additional weight of the front bumper and winch the OP has installed (I have 5100's). My experience was a loss of 3/4" of ride height after the same installation on factory springs. Substituting the OME 885's regained the ride height AND restored the front to a factory like ride without the slight wallow it had from the extra weight. No extra harshness at all because all I did was adjust for the extra weight.

A top hat spacer will probably gain back his ride height but it will do nothing to gain back any lost travel from the extra weight still compressing the springs. He'd still be losing that amount of up travel if he ever needs it off road. Why would one want to handicap a high quality shock like a King and take away from its full length of travel by not matching it to a suitable spring?

I'm doing the same thing in the back. I have added a CBI rear bumper, and with additional gear now carry a constant load of 240 - 300 pounds. My Toytec +10% 2" lift springs are now back at near factory ride height. Adding a spacer might gain me back that height, but won't do anything to remove the squat in the springs. I have a pair of Dobinsons rear springs in the garage specifically designed to handle that weight range just waiting for me to get time to install them.
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Old 04-25-2018, 12:18 PM #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stephan07 View Post
Rear.
King Custom length
OME 898 Heavy(440lb) rear springs
I'm sure you guys already know, but the "440LB" reference means you need that amount of weight in the rear end for those coils to be properly suited, and not ride super rough.

Those 2898 OME coils are 318LB/IN springs, each, so it takes about 636LBS for that rear end to drop 1".
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Old 04-25-2018, 06:10 PM #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dobinsons Mike View Post
I'm sure you guys already know, but the "440LB" reference means you need that amount of weight in the rear end for those coils to be properly suited, and not ride super rough.

Those 2898 OME coils are 318LB/IN springs, each, so it takes about 636LBS for that rear end to drop 1".

Thanks Mike! I'm going to add 1/2 an inch of preload to the front coilovers and see how it looks. Curently I have no threads showing. If there is still too much rake and since I have the Toytec RCC 2.0 rear springs I may swap out the 440s until I get a rear bumper on. I was planing on the CBI last month till I saw the Pelfrey stuff come out.That should drop the rear some. Currently I have the RCI alum SKids, C4 Steel gas tank skid, ARB drawers and a portable second battery/solar generator in the rear..so about 300lbs before I load any weekend gear.

Thanks again....
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Old 04-25-2018, 06:13 PM #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dark4c View Post
I agree with the others about needing to go with lighter rear springs if you are not doing a rear bumper. Your ride is going to feel crappy. I have similar lift Kings 700lb springs in front set at 6 threads showing. Rear I have dobinsons 2” 327’s. Had small rake until I added the bumper. Now it is even but I wish I had had the small rake back so I might switch to 3” 701v rear springs. I do have a 3rd row as well. Before and after bumper pics.

stance in that first pic looks perfect to me. i like a little bit of rake!

& Thanks!
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Old 04-27-2018, 05:37 AM #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 3wbdriver View Post
I ONLY recommended heavier springs to offset the additional weight of the front bumper and winch the OP has installed (I have 5100's). My experience was a loss of 3/4" of ride height after the same installation on factory springs. Substituting the OME 885's regained the ride height AND restored the front to a factory like ride without the slight wallow it had from the extra weight. No extra harshness at all because all I did was adjust for the extra weight.

A top hat spacer will probably gain back his ride height but it will do nothing to gain back any lost travel from the extra weight still compressing the springs. He'd still be losing that amount of up travel if he ever needs it off road. Why would one want to handicap a high quality shock like a King and take away from its full length of travel by not matching it to a suitable spring?

I'm doing the same thing in the back. I have added a CBI rear bumper, and with additional gear now carry a constant load of 240 - 300 pounds. My Toytec +10% 2" lift springs are now back at near factory ride height. Adding a spacer might gain me back that height, but won't do anything to remove the squat in the springs. I have a pair of Dobinsons rear springs in the garage specifically designed to handle that weight range just waiting for me to get time to install them.
so what would your solution be for someone who doesnt need a rear bumper and doesnt need to carry any sort of load but jus wants the front to not have any rake
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Old 04-27-2018, 06:20 AM #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AlblineStar808 View Post
so what would your solution be for someone who doesnt need a rear bumper and doesnt need to carry any sort of load but jus wants the front to not have any rake
Bilstein 5100's set at either 0.85" ( very slight rake), or 1.75" (body level, but frame reverse rake. My first mod was this at 1.75". Note the frame angle in relation to the ground. If you do this you will also need to adjust your headlights down.
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