Mine are sit on just like yours. I'll try your way and see if there is any noticeable wind difference.

I am running 48" Yakima round bars with Keel-Over attachments to secure the boat, using Yakima Rail Grabs on the factory rails. For peace of mind, I anchor the bow of the boat to the factory tie down point. For reference this is a Mad River Explorer (16.5' Royalex). It is a good sized canoe, and here in Wyoming, cross winds are almost always a factor when traveling to a destination. Using this set-up, I haven't had any issues.

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Here's my setups:

Started looking at maybe getting the Yakima or Thule crossbars and rail grab, grips, as this may be an easier way to start hauling a canoe around and maybe some plywood from the lumber store or even a RTT down the road.

So am looking at my manual and it states the weight limit on the "roof luggage rack" is #120!

With 2 yaks you would be pushing that.

Am skeptical about the weight rating and am wondering if Toyota is just playing it safe.

Its odd that aftermarket roof rack manufacturers are using the same mounting points on several "no-drill" models and yet have quite a bit higher weight limit rating.

Would like to get a full length aluminum rood rack but haven't found a flat utility style that I like with no drilling. Yet.

Anyone regularly haul more than #120 without any problems on the oem roof rails?

I like the longer rack for my kayaks. They are 14's and driving up the back side of the Sierras can get pretty windy.

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Here's a 17 footer on my stock rack. Drove like this from LA up to Mammoth with no issues.

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What do you have around the front tie downs? I've got one of those pool noodles, but don't know how it'll hold up. Your solution looks a lot sturdier.

I use a 8' long rack for my surf ski. Works great. I have to take the arms off the rack to get into my garage, so far I have only forgotten once.

It's just some pipe insulation I picked up at the hardware store. It works great. Something like this... https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt...7812/204760801

Seconding this. I have ALWAYS used my stock rack and crossbars and taken my canoe almost cross country without issue. Make sure the cross bars are tight and the tie down straps, check periodically at gas stations, and its the cheapest, easiest solution, YMMV.

Awesome! Thanks!

Here is my Yakima setup to haul my outrigger canoe (similar to a surfski) that measures just under 21 feet long. I like the bar over the door and at the rear of the side rails to maximize the spread between crossbars. I made the saddles out of some close celled foam. They are good at handling the flex when driving through crosswinds.

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Holy crap man, have you ever got the tires off the ground with that?

]My factory rack was to low I had to add a 2x4 across the rails to get the kayak up off the roof, I just installed the older TE rack it’s higher. Hopefully I should clear without a problem next time.

So after a little more thought about this the 120# limit, Toyota must be referring to the "oem crossbars" which have been referred to as being pretty flexible.

Grabbing my oem rails though proved them to be very tough, they didn't flex at all when I pulled and rocked the 4Runner back and forth.

So the aftermarket cross bars and rail mounts should be the limiting factor on how much weight should be carried up there. Sound right?