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Old 03-16-2021, 06:53 AM #16
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Thumbs up Same here

Quote:
Originally Posted by JerseyMike View Post
I've had issues with mine sticking and getting the CEL/throwing the P0705 code from time to time. It seems the transmission range sensor (NSS) is on the outside of the trans and can corrode. I've been shifting thru the P --> D cycle while stopped until the "stiff" feeling goes away. Usually the CEL and TRAC OFF lights turn off after I drive it for a bit and turn the truck off. If you search P0705 and transmission range sensor there are a few other threads about it.
My 2010 just started this nonsense 6 months ago. I cleared the codes and had some peace for a bit- but the problem returned.
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Old 03-16-2021, 09:35 AM #17
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My 2013 trail had that issue a few years back. Intermittent, got it to dealer with cel on, i got lucky they took a look at NSS and cleaned it and recoated with dielectric grease. Best of all no charge, wasnt under warranty they say, but still no charge.
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Old 03-16-2021, 01:09 PM #18
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So last month my 4Runner had hard shifting using the gear selector over a period of time. It was barely noticeable. While my wife was driving, she said it was hard to use the pedals and her check engine and TRAC light came on. She drove straight to Toyota who later confirmed it was the transmission switch. The advisor said he has seen about 12 of these issues the past year and considering how many 4Runners are out there, it's pretty rare for it to happen. I guess we just got lucky. Out the door price was $626. Everything feels smooth now and runs well.
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Old 03-16-2021, 07:44 PM #19
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That part is $150 MSRP and should take less than 15 minutes to replace. It has 1 wire harness, 1 bolt, and 1 clip, all easily reached on the side of the transmission.

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Old 03-17-2021, 07:28 PM #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeremy556 View Post
That part is $150 MSRP and should take less than 15 minutes to replace. It has 1 wire harness, 1 bolt, and 1 clip, all easily reached on the side of the transmission.



Until it gets bonded to the shaft. Mine was like a 6 hour operation.
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Old 03-29-2021, 06:18 PM #21
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Like others I’m in the replacing mine tho I’m not as lucky as the rest of you who have changed.


The top bolt came out nice and easy the bottom nut came out nice and easy

Went to remove the sensor and it wouldn’t come off. Took a wire brush to get some of the gunk of it where those little compression wings are and on fell off then another. Last 1/4 wasn’t moving. Sprayed it with some pen oil and let it sit

Went back with a little pry took and well the sensor came off but the metal ring that you put the lock nut and washer on stay on the vehicle so I have the sensor off just need to figure out how to remove the metal attachment that fit on the box shaped piece stick out of the tranny


Any ideas? I’m thinking I may just use the dermal to cut it the metal to remove it
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Old 03-29-2021, 06:44 PM #22
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Like others I’m in the replacing mine tho I’m not as lucky as the rest of you who have changed.


The top bolt came out nice and easy the bottom nut came out nice and easy

Went to remove the sensor and it wouldn’t come off. Took a wire brush to get some of the gunk of it where those little compression wings are and on fell off then another. Last 1/4 wasn’t moving. Sprayed it with some pen oil and let it sit

Went back with a little pry took and well the sensor came off but the metal ring that you put the lock nut and washer on stay on the vehicle so I have the sensor off just need to figure out how to remove the metal attachment that fit on the box shaped piece stick out of the tranny


Any ideas? I’m thinking I may just use the dermal to cut it the metal to remove it
Are you talking about this? Pretty sure that is part of the trans and is not supposed to come off.
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Old 03-29-2021, 07:33 PM #23
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That square piece I known isn’t suppose to come off it’s that metal ring that’s on the switch that compresses onto the square part that’s stuck on there so we’ll that it completely popped out of the sensor when prying
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Old 03-29-2021, 08:10 PM #24
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See the metal ring that’s seize on the square piece it broke out of the sensor housing. So it’s becoming a challenge getting it off since there isn’t much room to work and get a good angle
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Old 03-29-2021, 10:06 PM #25
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Ah, that sucks, must be same reason KenWilliams's 6 hour job. I would probably go with a flex shaft on a die grinder with a carbide burr. Seems like a cutting wheel might be problematic in that small area. Might be worthwhile to remove the exhaust, but that may also have rust problems and likely need new gaskets.
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Old 03-30-2021, 01:17 AM #26
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I’m thinking most of the people with this issue are in the rust belt?
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Old 03-30-2021, 09:07 PM #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1000MPH View Post
I’m thinking most of the people with this issue are in the rust belt?
NE, so yes. Mine broke too, I had to mangle it, but I was still able to pry on the ring and eventually free it. Dremel is the next best bet.
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Old 03-30-2021, 10:02 PM #28
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What a pain in the ass

My question is with the new sensor does a replacement rubber oring come with it the one behind this nut didn’t fair well lol
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Old 03-30-2021, 11:44 PM #29
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Best, fast way is just cut the damn thing with Dremel or Oscillating Tool, just do not cut into center shaft, then insert flat slot screw driver to open it and remove it. clean rust on shaft, apply some grease and slide new in.
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Old 03-31-2021, 12:17 AM #30
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Quote:
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Best, fast way is just cut the damn thing with Dremel or Oscillating Tool, just do not cut into center shaft, then insert flat slot screw driver to open it and remove it. clean rust on shaft, apply some grease and slide new in.
Hope the new one goes on without a fight......

Now I know why I didn’t because a mechanic and instead became a paramedic.
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