I was specifically referring to any downsides to using the voltage booster, regardless of the battery size or type...

Well then you were right, the price

I think they are really to new to determine if there are any long term detrimental effects to the trucks electrical subsystems. I haven't seen or heard of any issues in the last few years.

Installed one on my 18 4R. Currently running a CFX50w and charging some electronics while camping. Used it for over a week on and off and it’s been great. Never seen it below 12.5V.

Could you link to the charger and booster you are using? Also, what device do you use to monitor the battery? I am nearly decided to do the 31 and avoid a future aux battery set up.

@Louisiana Overland

The HKB voltage booster:
https://www.hkbelect.com/product/206...-version-2016/

NoCo Gen1 Mini 4a: (some use the Gen1 10amp or the Gen2)
https://no.co/genm1

I have a Carista OBDII and the voltage on the app dashboard when I am curious, it is monitoring what the ECU is picking up (so there could be some variance). I also just check with a voltage meter every other month or so. You could pick up a national luna BMS-10101 single battery for like $30. I just haven't found a decent usable place to mount one. There are a dozen+ out there, since it is just a monitor and not a management system they are relatively inexpensive.

Thank you for the good info!!

I use this Bluetooth battery monitor to trend the battery voltage:
Automotive BM2 Wireless Car Battery Tester 12V Battery Load Tester Bluetooth 4.0 Battery Voltage, Charging and Cranking System Monitor Digital Battery Analyzer for Android & IOS https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06Y5PC9D8..._zPlcBbR2C1DNS


And watch voltage on my ScanGauge

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

I was in on the xp270 group buy.

I'm actually running a 31M and a 65M as my second battery. I just ugraded from a 34m. It's working like a champ. No issues so far.

I went with this group 24 from X2Power, a rebranded Northstar. It’s a few more AH and about 8 lbs heavier than the group 34 Odyssey. It fits in the stock battery tray. It’s been fantastic. My trucks a yr old but a big difference. I also have a portable battery pack I built and wired into the truck with a Redarc Dc/DC charger that’s also solar enabled. The battery there is a Battle Born Lithium Battery. I run my fridge off that, as well as any electronics I need via an inverter.

Funny I have the pelfrey as I was going to go with a group 31, and I had to trim the battery as it was too wide! I also was worried about the alternator issues and not being able to charge it to full capacity. Anyway. Super happy with the portable I built and loving the X2 Power. The Battle Born is sick and I can use the entire 100AH without hurting it. So it’s essentially 4x the capacity of a lead acid 100AH battery.....and 1/2 the weight)

https://www.batteriesplus.com/batter...-24/sli24agmdp

As you can see from the picture I have two different AGM batteries. I will probably get some flak for these not being the same type. Optima D34M and Odyssey 34R-PC 1500. They are isolated by a Blue Sea ACR which is in the locked off position.The optima is for accessories only and used as a backup in case the primary fails.
I put both batteries on a "CTEK multi us 7002" maintain charger when the truck is not being used. this should take care of low charging issues and desulfation.
I was not comfortable using boosters to up the voltage.
Note: This is not a daily driver, recreational use only.
So far So good.

Attached Images

 

Well, I got the fridge and slide installed and then installed a group 34 odyssey. I finally terminated the wiring to the new plug this morning and made it “live”. I ended up replacing thr carpet etc in the cargo area with 3/4” birch plywood and painted that with bedliner. I also installed a threaded arb 12v receptacle on the fender well fowrard of the fridge and slide. Thr wiring from the recepatcle ties in under my drivers seat. I ran 2awg wire there for an ausio amp and did a sual amp install kit that left me with an unused fused lug on a distribution block. This is “always on”. I ordered the HKB diode today as well as a lithium jump pack, a viair compressor, deflator, and repair kit. That should be the last of the gear I wanted on board for my trip out west next month. I am planning to do the enchanted rockies trail from new mexico to wyoming.

I have the voltage protect set at “medium” and the fridge is running at 37deg F. The groceries I just hauled home were nice and cold!

Just a note on how long the Odyssey group 34 lasts when I tailgate/ camp:

When I have my 1200w RMS stereo system playing at about 80% volume, fridge running, and LED flood lights for night time, my battery will last a solid 4 hours before the voltage starts dropping too low for my stereo's amps. That's a hell of a lot of juice. Once that happens I just run the engine for about 20-30 minutes and it's ready to go again for another 4 hours (beware of CO poisoning if you're hanging out near the exhaust)

There really is no downside aside from cost to buy or make.

The biggest downside to NOT using one, is the imminent slow death of the battery itself. Without proper charge voltages and or maintenance, the battery will suffer from permanent capacity degradation over time.

The secondary downside is a slight loss of capacity in amp hours because it never really fully charges which also contributes to loss in service life over time.

Both things reduce it's overall service life and performance. It ends up costing you a lot more in the long run vs just getting the correct voltage and or maintenance program from your AGM.

I think its pretty safe to say you would see little to no detrimental effects long term.

In fact something boosted into the high 14s or low 15s may actually help the overall electrical system especially with higher electrical loads.

With higher voltages you generally reduce the amp draw for the same wattage load and helps fight again voltage drop at the load end... most appliances light fridges, car amps, and most other things are happier being in the higher end of supply voltages anyways since the efficiency figures go up.

For example if you look at the RMS / Peak ratings on a car audio amp that makes 300 watts, that wattage rating is at the maximum input voltage of the device.

For the sake of the example lets say that's 15 volts...
15 volts x 20 amps = 300 watts

The amp wont exceed 20 amps, as protected by a 20 amp fuse. Lets assume the voltage is 13.5 volts now...

13.5 volts x 20 amps = 270 watts.

The maximum power output of that 300 watt amp is reduced due to 270 watts in a 13.5 volt system.

Most everything is more efficient on the top end of of its input voltage... Ham radios, winches, you name it. Less amps, less heat, with more voltage.

I have the 34R-PC1500 and it has worked well so far. I've noticed that I can keep my ham radio and other accessories on while starting the car and they remain on the whole time. My original FLA battery would allow the voltage to drop far enough that my radio would shut off.

The downside is that the stock alternator generates a voltage under 14v, which isn't enough to keep the Odyssey charged. I have to connect a charger at least once a month to ensure the battery is topped off.

I've heard reports of a diode/fuse hack to trick the alternator into producing higher voltage (sounds dangerous) and some people go with the upgraded 270XP alternator. I've been a little too fearful of changing an alternator myself.