03-03-2021, 10:28 PM
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#31
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Junior Member
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Join Date: Feb 2020
Location: Rockville
Posts: 26
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Junior Member
Join Date: Feb 2020
Location: Rockville
Posts: 26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GoHeels
Yes, so far so good. I was originally able to reproduce the issue by opening the hatch and hitting the panel with my fist a few times making it turn on and off. That made me fairly confident that it was not linked to the wires leading from the tailgate to the vehicle nor the switch on the transmission that others had alluded too.
Once I got the panel off and started playing around, moving that connector around also made the screen flicker so I assumed I got lucky and messed with it. Was unable to duplicate after adding the zip tie and relieving the tension on the plug.
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Yes, I had narrowed it down to the hatch door myself. It has usually happened after had I shut the door. Opening and closing it again would fix it most of the time. Once it gets warmer I'm doing what you did or at that point upgrade to a higher quality camera. Maybe add a front one too. Thanks for the write up.
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03-03-2021, 10:36 PM
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#32
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Junior Member
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Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Tennessee
Posts: 15
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Junior Member
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Tennessee
Posts: 15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by El Gavilan
Yes, I had narrowed it down to the hatch door myself. It has usually happened after had I shut the door. Opening and closing it again would fix it most of the time. Once it gets warmer I'm doing what you did or at that point upgrade to a higher quality camera. Maybe add a front one too. Thanks for the write up.
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Every time mine goes out I have to open the hatch again and do a push or pull on the wires where they go into the frame. I've been fixing it that way for about 3 years now. And it quits working just about every other time I open the hatch.
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03-03-2021, 10:42 PM
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#33
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Junior Member
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Join Date: Jan 2021
Location: Denver
Posts: 4
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jan 2021
Location: Denver
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My experience was very similar. I highly suggest taking a look at my write-up a few posts back. I have not experienced any problems after implementing that fix.
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03-03-2021, 10:54 PM
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#34
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Junior Member
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Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Tennessee
Posts: 15
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Junior Member
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Tennessee
Posts: 15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GoHeels
My experience was very similar. I highly suggest taking a look at my write-up a few posts back. I have not experienced any problems after implementing that fix.
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I don't know how I missed your writeup from before, I'll definitely give this a try. Thanks!
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03-05-2021, 04:08 PM
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#35
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Member
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Join Date: Jun 2020
Location: Southern California
Posts: 40
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Member
Join Date: Jun 2020
Location: Southern California
Posts: 40
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Dang is this a common issue for 2014?
Asking for a friend! haha
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03-05-2021, 04:25 PM
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#36
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Member
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Join Date: Jun 2019
Location: Colorado
Posts: 39
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Member
Join Date: Jun 2019
Location: Colorado
Posts: 39
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This post was EXACTLY what I needed to fix the intermittent camera outages on my 2012 Trail Edition.
A couple notes to add:
1. On my year there’s no interior strap/grab handle to remove.
2. Thus, after you pop out the interior hatch lights the entire plastic piece is ready to pry off.
3. There is a triangle arrow mounded in on the passenger side showing where to begin prying.
4. No special trim tool needed. I just used a stiff plastic kitchen utensil.
5. I freed up the tape, straighten out the bend like the OP did. That was enough to correct the issue when I tested. Nevertheless I used 2 zip ties to hold the wire harness straight (it parallels another wire bundle).
No telling if this is a permanent fix or not. Time will tell. However, now I know where this particular gremlin lives and can deal with him accordingly now.
Thanks guys!
Quote:
Originally Posted by GoHeels
Long time lurker, first time poster.
I've had this issue for quite some time but been too lazy to investigate. Finally got around to it. Long story short, I believe there is a plug that has too much tension which forced a connector to be loose in the plug. To fix, I cut tape (relieve tension) and added a zip tie (secured the plug). Been testing this about a week with my tailgate panel off. Steps & pictures below.
1. Remove both rear lights on the panel. I used a plastic pry tool to pop them out. Unclip & remove. You do not need to remove the 10mm bolt behind the lights.
2. Remove the cover from the grab handle. There is a 10mm bolt behind it. Remove the bolt.
3. Use a plastic pry tool to carefully go around the panel and pop off the panel. It should just be plastic clips along the side & bottom.
4. In the center of the door you will see a metal bracket, black box, and a few plugs. Disconnect the harness that is not directly connected the black box (see attached pictures). In my case, a few of those wires were bent and slightly loose. I pressed on them with my fingers just to straighten them out.
5. The plug above is also secured to another harness using tape. Cut that tape. This should allow the harness to not have as much pressure.
6. Plug it back in. To take it a step further, I zip-tied that plug together to ensure a solid connection.
7. Put it all back together.
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__________________
2012 Trail Edition, Silver w/ KDSS, Shrock Works front bumper, warn M12,000 winch, RSG Rock Sliders, Full RCI AL Skids w/steel on gas tank, OME 888/889 springs and OME 90021 Nitrochargers, Camburg UCAs, 32” Cooper 235/80/17 LT on Trail wheels, 1.25” wheel spacers, LEDs inside and out.
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03-06-2021, 08:38 PM
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#37
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Junior Member
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Join Date: Mar 2020
Location: Colorado
Posts: 8
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Junior Member
Join Date: Mar 2020
Location: Colorado
Posts: 8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GoHeels
If you are getting a black screen, the unit is acknowledging you are in reverse. Are you saying you do not have a black screen when in reverse?
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Correct, in my case when I put it in reverse, nothing happens on the screen, it stays on the audio display as if I were in Drive (or Park or whatever).
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03-20-2021, 11:01 PM
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#38
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Junior Member
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Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Tennessee
Posts: 15
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Junior Member
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Tennessee
Posts: 15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Old3Tow
This post was EXACTLY what I needed to fix the intermittent camera outages on my 2012 Trail Edition.
A couple notes to add:
1. On my year there’s no interior strap/grab handle to remove.
2. Thus, after you pop out the interior hatch lights the entire plastic piece is ready to pry off.
3. There is a triangle arrow mounded in on the passenger side showing where to begin prying.
4. No special trim tool needed. I just used a stiff plastic kitchen utensil.
5. I freed up the tape, straighten out the bend like the OP did. That was enough to correct the issue when I tested. Nevertheless I used 2 zip ties to hold the wire harness straight (it parallels another wire bundle).
No telling if this is a permanent fix or not. Time will tell. However, now I know where this particular gremlin lives and can deal with him accordingly now.
Thanks guys!
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I finally got around to trying this fix on my 2014 Limited and it has been working flawlessly for about 3 weeks now. Thanks to GoHeels for posting this!
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04-30-2021, 02:47 PM
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#39
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Member
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Join Date: Nov 2018
Location: NE Ohio
Posts: 71
Real Name: Kevin
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Member
Join Date: Nov 2018
Location: NE Ohio
Posts: 71
Real Name: Kevin
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GoHeels
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Thanks for posting that write-up. I was having an issue where if I slammed the hatch, the camera would go out. It would come back when I opened the hatch, but to get it to stay on I'd have to close the hatch real gingerly.
I didn't notice any unplugged or lose connectors, but I did take the strain off that cable like you mention and everything works fine now. No idea how long that'll last but at least now I know how easy it is to get in there if I need to mess with it again.
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2015 Trail Edition w/ KDSS
TRD forged wheels, Cooper AT3 4S (P265/70R17)
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06-15-2021, 07:23 PM
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#40
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Member
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Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Sac, CA
Posts: 40
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Member
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Sac, CA
Posts: 40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GoHeels
Long time lurker, first time poster.
I've had this issue for quite some time but been too lazy to investigate. Finally got around to it. Long story short, I believe there is a plug that has too much tension which forced a connector to be loose in the plug. To fix, I cut tape (relieve tension) and added a zip tie (secured the plug). Been testing this about a week with my tailgate panel off. Steps & pictures below.
1. Remove both rear lights on the panel. I used a plastic pry tool to pop them out. Unclip & remove. You do not need to remove the 10mm bolt behind the lights.
2. Remove the cover from the grab handle. There is a 10mm bolt behind it. Remove the bolt.
3. Use a plastic pry tool to carefully go around the panel and pop off the panel. It should just be plastic clips along the side & bottom.
4. In the center of the door you will see a metal bracket, black box, and a few plugs. Disconnect the harness that is not directly connected the black box (see attached pictures). In my case, a few of those wires were bent and slightly loose. I pressed on them with my fingers just to straighten them out.
5. The plug above is also secured to another harness using tape. Cut that tape. This should allow the harness to not have as much pressure.
6. Plug it back in. To take it a step further, I zip-tied that plug together to ensure a solid connection.
7. Put it all back together.
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Can we get this stickied or under the write ups!!
__________________
2000 4runner Sr5 with Tundra 199 brakes taco wip- Sold
2014 4runner TE premium-EIBACH PRO-TRUCK-COILOVER 2.0 and REAR LOAD-LEVELING-SYSTEM. Front at about 1.5 rear at 2 inches.
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07-07-2021, 11:18 AM
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#41
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Member
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Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Boston, MA
Posts: 184
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Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Boston, MA
Posts: 184
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GoHeels
Long time lurker, first time poster.
I've had this issue for quite some time but been too lazy to investigate. Finally got around to it. Long story short, I believe there is a plug that has too much tension which forced a connector to be loose in the plug. To fix, I cut tape (relieve tension) and added a zip tie (secured the plug). Been testing this about a week with my tailgate panel off. Steps & pictures below.
1. Remove both rear lights on the panel. I used a plastic pry tool to pop them out. Unclip & remove. You do not need to remove the 10mm bolt behind the lights.
2. Remove the cover from the grab handle. There is a 10mm bolt behind it. Remove the bolt.
3. Use a plastic pry tool to carefully go around the panel and pop off the panel. It should just be plastic clips along the side & bottom.
4. In the center of the door you will see a metal bracket, black box, and a few plugs. Disconnect the harness that is not directly connected the black box (see attached pictures). In my case, a few of those wires were bent and slightly loose. I pressed on them with my fingers just to straighten them out.
5. The plug above is also secured to another harness using tape. Cut that tape. This should allow the harness to not have as much pressure.
6. Plug it back in. To take it a step further, I zip-tied that plug together to ensure a solid connection.
7. Put it all back together.
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had the flickering issue for a little while now and experienced the full black issue the other day. i'll be trying this when i have some free time.
will report back if it solves the issue on my end. Have you confirmed this solved your issue? seems like its been a good 6 months since you did this fix.
__________________
2003 - 4Runner Limited V8 (Sold)
2014 - 4Runner Limited V6
2019 - GX460 Premium V8
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07-07-2021, 10:53 PM
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#42
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Member
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Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Sac, CA
Posts: 40
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Member
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Sac, CA
Posts: 40
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I think I’m going on 2 weeks now and I’ve gotten a lot of use out of the rear hatch with no black outs anymore. Great fix, needs to be stickied!!!
__________________
2000 4runner Sr5 with Tundra 199 brakes taco wip- Sold
2014 4runner TE premium-EIBACH PRO-TRUCK-COILOVER 2.0 and REAR LOAD-LEVELING-SYSTEM. Front at about 1.5 rear at 2 inches.
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09-04-2021, 06:34 AM
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#43
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Junior Member
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Join Date: Sep 2021
Location: Lahore
Posts: 1
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Junior Member
Join Date: Sep 2021
Location: Lahore
Posts: 1
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Possibly, a fuse may have blown or a wire may have frayed and become disconnected. (This is probably the best case scenario with these kinds of issues.) If you have a wired backup camera or use webcam, wiring is more likely the problem.
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09-04-2021, 12:04 PM
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#44
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Near Baton Rouge, LA
Age: 70
Posts: 4,059
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Near Baton Rouge, LA
Age: 70
Posts: 4,059
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If the above procedures don’t fix the issue, it could possibly be the connections where the actual camera harness connects to the main harness.
When I relocated my camera I found that the main harness connector that the camera harness is plugged into was very finicky and caused intermittent connectivity. I moved it around a bit while checking the image until it worked without any pressure on it and it’s been working fine since then.
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Best Regards,
Saker
2021 T4R *MIDNIGHT BLACK METALLIC* TRD OFF ROAD PREMIUM 4X4| Saker’s Ebony Build | Saker’s Previous 2014 Midnight Build | Scuba Mod | LED LIGHT BAR INSTALL | Saker's EBRs Photos Updated 05-21-16| Saker's Previous 2013 FJ TT/SE
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10-20-2021, 04:16 PM
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#45
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Member
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Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: South Florida
Posts: 208
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Member
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: South Florida
Posts: 208
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GoHeels
Long time lurker, first time poster.
I've had this issue for quite some time but been too lazy to investigate. Finally got around to it. Long story short, I believe there is a plug that has too much tension which forced a connector to be loose in the plug. To fix, I cut tape (relieve tension) and added a zip tie (secured the plug). Been testing this about a week with my tailgate panel off. Steps & pictures below.
1. Remove both rear lights on the panel. I used a plastic pry tool to pop them out. Unclip & remove. You do not need to remove the 10mm bolt behind the lights.
2. Remove the cover from the grab handle. There is a 10mm bolt behind it. Remove the bolt.
3. Use a plastic pry tool to carefully go around the panel and pop off the panel. It should just be plastic clips along the side & bottom.
4. In the center of the door you will see a metal bracket, black box, and a few plugs. Disconnect the harness that is not directly connected the black box (see attached pictures). In my case, a few of those wires were bent and slightly loose. I pressed on them with my fingers just to straighten them out.
5. The plug above is also secured to another harness using tape. Cut that tape. This should allow the harness to not have as much pressure.
6. Plug it back in. To take it a step further, I zip-tied that plug together to ensure a solid connection.
7. Put it all back together.
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I've been having this intermittently working camera issue for a few months. Recently I took apart the dash to check the connection in the aftermarket head unit, and it was good. I came here to search and found this thread, and just did this to my 14 T4R. I can't say that the connection was loose, but I cut the tape, unplugged it and re-plugged it, and secured it with a zip-tie just like you posted. Camera is working now, hopefully it will stay on. I did find some rust behind the plastic cover.... Will order the part and then take the whole darn thing apart to see if there is anything else back there I should worry about.... Thanks!
__________________
2014 SR5 Premium Silver - XenonDepot Extreme HID, NFab step bars, Cooper Discoverer AT3, WeatherTech floor liners, Kenwood Excelon DDX6904S DVD receiver, rockford fosgate punch 4 channel amp, sound ordnance M350-1 mono amp, jl audio 8 inch micro sub, 6.5" kicker component speakers in doors & dash, 6.5" pioneer speakers in rear doors and hatch.
Prior: 1992 Land Cruiser 4 door (stolen after 6 months), 1992 Land Cruiser 2 door (avatar picture), 1998 Rav4, 2001 4Runner Sport black, 2007 FJ Cruiser silver
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