I would velcro the camera in place and test to to see how it works out. On my Miata, the camera is almost directly behind the drivers headrest, but the fisheye lens effect of these still allows a pretty full picture. It might be fine off to one side just a bit.

Thanks for the suggestion. While in WM's parking lot today, I just happened to have a tape-measure with me. As it turns out, it looks like there's enough room between the light and the window for the camera's mounting plate.

In the silk-purse /sow's-ear department, it occurred to me that, if the plastic lens which covers this rear light (called the "luggage compartment light" in the manual) is held in by screws, then I could replace them with slightly longer screws to hold in place both the lens and a much-smaller version of the Home Depot plastic for mounting the camera. When I looked in the manual for instructions for replacing the bulbs in the various overhead lights, all it said was "REPLACING LIGHT BULBS -- Parts: ... Tools: Screwdriver". But when I went outside to examine those lights, I saw no screws in any of them [sigh...]. I guess the screwdriver is used just to pry off the lens.

But I'm curious about the velcro suggestion: since the point of using a piece of plastic held in place by buttons is (I thought) to avoid attaching the provided adhesive pad directly to the fabric of the headliner, how can I attach velcro without defeating that purpose?

If I'm reading things correctly, the only real differences between the DR900s and the DR750s are:

DR900s has 4K, 5Ghz Wifi and a better compression algorithm.

Everything else seems to be the exact same. Is that right?

Sounds right to me.

Just uploaded this example of idiots on the road, captured by my dashcams;

https://youtu.be/s8Q0njEs0GM

Keep your eye on the guy with his turn signal on...

J... H... C... Could hardly miss him, with or without turn-signal -- especially when he swerved in front of you with no room to spare at 00:41.
Bill, did your original footage capture his plate legibly?

Yes, i can zoom in and see it clearly.

Not sure. Maybe just hold it up where it would go and record a bit. I would avoid attaching directly to the headliner in any way.

I tried this out on mine, and here are my findings;

A live view does not stop the recording.

A live view seems real time or very close to it, but is a little bit 'jumpy'.

A live view is of limited use, I think. My iPhone screen is not large enough to really make this worthwhile. If something happens you can download, blow it up on a big screen, zoom in, etc. For backing up it would only be useful on a larger screen, in my view. But if you are in need of a backup camera, I'd try this out first anyway...

Hope this helps!

An update/follow-up to my installation;

I have now hardwired it using the Power Magic Pro (PMP) kit I bought with my camera. I ran into a few issues, and had a hard time finding more specific info on switched vs constant power, etc., so I thought I'd share. What follows is my notes and observations;

1) I tied into power at the fuse panel under the dash. It is hard to see details in the pic, so I have oriented this pic to match pic of the cover further down. Yes, the wiring could be a bit more neat.



2) Fuses: The fuses in my Limited are "low profile" mini fuses. My taps were regular 'mini' fuse sized. So, I had to get some new fuses...



3) I used the OBD 7.5 fuse for always on pwr, and the 15A power outlet location for switched pwr. (Don't use the one in the pic! The TAIL fuse pictured will only work when your lights are on) As noted by others, you can discover what is what by using a 12v test light probe. There is a handy ground (threaded post) up near the top of the brake pedal. Once grounded, simply probe each fuse (with the car turned off), by placing the point of the probe in contact with the small contact area on each fuse. (Watch the Youtube video below if that doesn't make sense to you). Anything that lights up is constant.



Here is a pretty good Youtube that shows how to use the probe;

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ksrsXwwukFc

4) Note that there is a fuse puller in the underhood fuse box that will work for these type A fuses. It has a nice slot designed for it. My existing fuse pullers did not work as they were a bit too wide. How do I know? At one point I misplaced the small one and was not concerned until I realized this. Panic insued. Don't lose that!

5) I chose to mount the PMP just to the right of the hood release. That leaves a fair amount of wiring leftover, but I tie wrapped it neatly and was able to tuck it all in to the small space behind the kick panel you see (to the left) just below where the fuse panel sits.



Hope this helps!

Ooops. Apparently I have been driving around with my parking lights switched on. As soon as I turned them off, the camera said "Powering down". I need to move that to another fuse for switched power...

Exactly how did you hardwire it and which fuse slot did you use?
I plan on using one of those female cigarette lighter thingy and tapping into one of the fuses using an add a fuse.

Sent from my XT1650 using Tapatalk

use the 15A power outlet location for switched

Thank you!

Hey All, Don't mean to revive an old thread but I just wanted to confirm and provide additional notation for this.

I recently picked up the 750S-2CH. Wired it exactly how it was explained here with fuse taps, 15A P/Outlet for Switched, and 7.5 OBD for Constant. Set the PMP to 12V and infinite recording, (12.5 would shut off the system after a couple minutes for me). The PMP wouldn't stick to the plastic with the double sided tape it came with so I opted for adhesive backed velcro.

I took a different route for the rear camera and headliner setup. Instead of using a sign as a mounting surface I picked up a piece of aluminum from Home Depot similar to what was used in the Blackvue acknowledged video on Youtube. Drilled a hole out on one end, bent it at an angle, and replaced the push-pin with a 14x3/4 phillips head screw to secure it to the top. It's ugly but it works, I'd probably just need to sand the edges as it had some pretty sharp edges.

Other than that, thanks Naylor for the write-up! It was extremely helpful!