08-28-2018, 08:34 PM
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#1
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Aug 2016
Location: CA
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Senior Member
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Fridge Run-times / Small Dual Battery Build
For all you fridge/freezer people… Have you metered the power to see the true amount consumed?
For the ARB 50, the spec sheet shows 7 amps as it’s max load, but it’s generally closer to 4-5 amps at fridge temps and can be lower (3.5 to 4 amps) after reaching temp. It also does not run 100% duty cycle (continuous) so whatever power its consuming needs to be averaged across its off-cycles. I think it’s worth mentioning that at 24 volts it’s about 15% more efficient than at 12.
Generally when I am camping it’s about half a day until the truck gets turned on again, I would like to build the smallest dual battery setup that would last about half a day… if I really needed more, I could supplement charge via alternator or solar.
Even for running this thing in the city for grocery shopping and errands the requirements for time would be even less. I generally turn it on right before I leave and it gets to temp by the time I need it...
How long do you guys generally run your fridges without throwing charge back into them?
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08-29-2018, 12:36 AM
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#2
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Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Fruita, CO
Age: 43
Posts: 3,984
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Senior Member
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For half a day, the stock battery will be fine.
It is all highly dependant upon contents, ambient temp, etc. but my Odyssey group 24 will keep my ARB at 31c half full of beer and water for about 2 days in 100f ambient temps in blazing sun. My old 31 would last about 3 days under the same conditions.
Day to day, I have a shore power cord I plug in that powers the 110v circuit of the ARB and a 12v charger for the battery that keeps the AGM happy.
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08-29-2018, 01:31 AM
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#3
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Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: Ontario
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I had the same question a few weeks ago that have a dometic 35 L and wanted to see what was an alternative to a dual battery did some research and came up with upgrading battery I ended up with a NorthStar 27f got it in the mail yesterday installing it last night hooked the fridge last night been connected 24 hours with SoCal temps and I just went to check if battery was dead by starting truck and nope started right up
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08-29-2018, 02:04 AM
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#4
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Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: Earth
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You may have to test at home. You listed some variables. Are the groceries going into the cooler already cold? How often accessed? Ambient temp?
I run the freezer at 20deg F or colder. This makes the fridge area around 38deg F. Again, varies depending on what's inside. If it's going to be off for a bit I run the freezer at 0deg F. Also coat the freezer area with blue ice. This allows it to last a bit longer without power. I have an older ARB. I place a cheap wireless thermometer remote sensor inside.
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08-29-2018, 08:48 AM
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#5
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Join Date: Dec 2015
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1A is a good rule of thumb average for fridge with duty cycle factored in, most good fridges are 0.7-1A average
I run my fridge 24/7, i keep stuff for lunch and drinks and use it to go grocery shopping at lunch
I have not trended amperage (i want to get a shunt to monitor all this but they aren't cheap), but my cheap battery monitor trends voltage and i can see when the fridge turns on and off from the voltage change due to the load when the engine is off.
For half a day you really don't need a dual battery, but replacing your battery with an AGM is a good idea simply for the health of the battery (stock battery isn't intended to deep cycle). If this is a rare occasion thing the stock battery will be fine though. Running my fridge 24/7 I started seeing poor performance on my stock battery after about 6 months.
Just replace your battery with a 24m battery, it will fit in the stock location (stock is group 24) without any changes and a 24m battery will typically have about a 75Ah capacity which will more than meet your half day requirement (probably good for a day and a half in good conditions). You can get a voltage booster diode on ebay for about $15, that will help it charge properly
My 31m battery lasts about 3 days in good conditions (temps not too crazy, full fridge) and into day 2 in poor conditions (hot temps, half full fridge) on the highest voltage shutoff setting
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08-29-2018, 08:50 AM
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#6
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Also, I'm using this cheap wireless thermometer to monitor temps. I have one sensor in the fridge part, one on the little tray thing above the compressor, and it also monitors vehicle interior temps. It records the max and min temp so I can check if the fridge got too warm.
$18:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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08-29-2018, 09:00 AM
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#7
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Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: NY, FL
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Isais101
I had the same question a few weeks ago that have a dometic 35 L and wanted to see what was an alternative to a dual battery did some research and came up with upgrading battery I ended up with a NorthStar 27f got it in the mail yesterday installing it last night hooked the fridge last night been connected 24 hours with SoCal temps and I just went to check if battery was dead by starting truck and nope started right up
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Did you need to do anything to make the 27F fit?
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Cement, RCI Skids & Sliders, Nitto Ridge Grappler, Northstar AGM, Goose Gear Plate, Dometic CFX 65W, Dometic Fridge Slide, BPF Molle Panel, Pedal Commander, Compustar, BlackVue, Diode Dynamics SS3
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08-29-2018, 09:10 AM
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#8
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31m is basically the same footprint as 27 just taller and 110ish Ah vs 90ish Ah. You might want to get a metal tray since they are longer than stock.
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08-29-2018, 11:01 AM
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#9
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Join Date: Apr 2018
Location: Tucson,AZ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SlickTRD
Did you need to do anything to make the 27F fit?
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You have to get a new battery tray. I got this one.
https://www.makariosrv.com/noco-grou...SABEgJuSfD_BwE
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2018 TRD ORP W/KDSS & Sunroof - ADS C/O's and rear RR, TC UCA's, Icon 2' springs, SSO bumper, Smitty X20, Nitto RG, FX PRO wheels, AVID sliders, RCI Alum skids, Bussmann RTMR, Canvas backs, Accessorides remote start, Rago Molle’s, HID low's, LED high's, Morimoto XB fogs, Ceramic window tint, Ecotechne roof rack, ARB diff breather, Indel B TB51, Ellis shift knobs, Plastics Guy bump stops, ARB twin comp., Pedal Comm, X2 Power G27
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08-29-2018, 11:05 AM
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#10
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Location: Tucson,AZ
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If you do go with an AGM, you will need to do some battery maintenance. The stock alternator will not charge an AGM battery all the way. You will need to charge it at home with a proper charger.
This is the one I got.
https://www.amazon.com/NOCO-G7200-Ul...+charger&psc=1
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2018 TRD ORP W/KDSS & Sunroof - ADS C/O's and rear RR, TC UCA's, Icon 2' springs, SSO bumper, Smitty X20, Nitto RG, FX PRO wheels, AVID sliders, RCI Alum skids, Bussmann RTMR, Canvas backs, Accessorides remote start, Rago Molle’s, HID low's, LED high's, Morimoto XB fogs, Ceramic window tint, Ecotechne roof rack, ARB diff breather, Indel B TB51, Ellis shift knobs, Plastics Guy bump stops, ARB twin comp., Pedal Comm, X2 Power G27
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08-29-2018, 11:08 AM
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#11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tuc4R
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Thanks! Does the factory J-hook and battery tie down work with this tray or did you use the provided straps?
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Cement, RCI Skids & Sliders, Nitto Ridge Grappler, Northstar AGM, Goose Gear Plate, Dometic CFX 65W, Dometic Fridge Slide, BPF Molle Panel, Pedal Commander, Compustar, BlackVue, Diode Dynamics SS3
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08-29-2018, 11:28 AM
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#12
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Join Date: Apr 2018
Location: Tucson,AZ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SlickTRD
Thanks! Does the factory J-hook and battery tie down work with this tray or did you use the provided straps?
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That I don't know yet, I just ordered it yesterday. lol I was just going to figure it out when it comes in.
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2018 TRD ORP W/KDSS & Sunroof - ADS C/O's and rear RR, TC UCA's, Icon 2' springs, SSO bumper, Smitty X20, Nitto RG, FX PRO wheels, AVID sliders, RCI Alum skids, Bussmann RTMR, Canvas backs, Accessorides remote start, Rago Molle’s, HID low's, LED high's, Morimoto XB fogs, Ceramic window tint, Ecotechne roof rack, ARB diff breather, Indel B TB51, Ellis shift knobs, Plastics Guy bump stops, ARB twin comp., Pedal Comm, X2 Power G27
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08-29-2018, 12:18 PM
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#13
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Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: Ontario
Posts: 75
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Member
Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: Ontario
Posts: 75
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SlickTRD
Thanks! Does the factory J-hook and battery tie down work with this tray or did you use the provided straps?
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Just a bigger battery tray even the stock j hooks work for this battery
And wires is plug a play
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08-29-2018, 12:21 PM
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#14
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Join Date: Apr 2017
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This are items I used for NorthStar 27f and 12v plug I installed in rear of truck
I ordered the battery from GP audio website I got the NorthStar 27f for $280 delivered to front door
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08-29-2018, 02:36 PM
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#15
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Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: San Francisco - Bangkok
Posts: 56
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Isais101
I had the same question a few weeks ago that have a dometic 35 L and wanted to see what was an alternative to a dual battery did some research and came up with upgrading battery I ended up with a NorthStar 27f got it in the mail yesterday installing it last night hooked the fridge last night been connected 24 hours with SoCal temps and I just went to check if battery was dead by starting truck and nope started right up
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What do you call that component next to the Aircomp? fuse tray? Electrical panel? I think I need that. Your seems very clean.
Your air comp is use for airlocker and tire inflation?
I got REDARC BCDC1225D in the box ready to install. I need to figure out the wiring, type and size of 2nd battery to connect with 100W solar panel and starter battery/alternator.
Planning to power Dometic 65 and other small stuffs.
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