07-17-2020, 05:15 PM
|
#16
|
|
Senior Member
|
|
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: PNW
Age: 42
Posts: 1,395
Real Name: Mike
|
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: PNW
Age: 42
Posts: 1,395
Real Name: Mike
|
I guess I’ll give my input for what it’s worth......
I have about 2-300 pound of extras and 35’s before i did the sound deadener. I was getting 13.5 mpg so it’s not getting worse than that. I did two layers on each door and 2-3 layers on the rear hatch. Worth every penny and an afternoon installing it. Installed front focals and the power bass in the rear doors and hatch with a 10” JL sub.
Definitely less road noise and no rattling on the outside. With the windows up you don’t hear much at all outside the vehicle. The mpg on these isn’t impressive to begin with so I wouldn’t let that be a deciding factor.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
__________________
‘14 SR5 in white
Front: King ext travel 2.5 w/ adjusters, TC UCA/LCA
Rear: King 2.5 shocks w/ adjusters, Dobinson’s 3” Icon Billet lowers, Icon tubular uppers, PCK
Wheels/Tires: SCS SR8’s w/ Toyo MT 35x12.50x17
Full RCI skids
|
|
Reply With Quote
|
07-17-2020, 09:40 PM
|
#17
|
Member
|
|
Join Date: May 2020
Location: Tampa
Posts: 67
|
|
Member
Join Date: May 2020
Location: Tampa
Posts: 67
|
Also want to try at least doing all the doors but have never done this before and would be following a video. No problem taking my time but does anyone have any tips from those who have done it or have knowledge??
|
|
Reply With Quote
|
07-17-2020, 09:57 PM
|
#18
|
Member
|
|
Join Date: Nov 2018
Location: NH
Posts: 229
|
|
Member
Join Date: Nov 2018
Location: NH
Posts: 229
|
If you're only going to do one area I would do the doors. I've done this on several different cars and the doors always seems to make the biggest difference. Don't use home depot stuff. Get something made for automotive use that's actually sound deadener. Quick roof isn't that. On my 2011 I just did behind the speakers on the doors and tailgate. Probably a square foot in each door. Not a big difference just for good measure. We use lizard skin a lot for builds at work and I plan on that for my upcoming fox mustang build. That stuff really makes a big difference.
__________________
Toyota 4x4 #17 - 2011 4Runner Trail Edition
|
|
Reply With Quote
|
07-18-2020, 01:11 AM
|
#19
|
|
Member
|
|
Join Date: Nov 2018
Location: Norco, CA
Posts: 37
|
|
Member
Join Date: Nov 2018
Location: Norco, CA
Posts: 37
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by GX4SEVEND
I guess I’ll give my input for what it’s worth......
I have about 2-300 pound of extras and 35’s before i did the sound deadener. I was getting 13.5 mpg so it’s not getting worse than that. I did two layers on each door and 2-3 layers on the rear hatch. Worth every penny and an afternoon installing it. Installed front focals and the power bass in the rear doors and hatch with a 10” JL sub.
Definitely less road noise and no rattling on the outside. With the windows up you don’t hear much at all outside the vehicle. The mpg on these isn’t impressive to begin with so I wouldn’t let that be a deciding factor.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
|
Did you do the floors also??
Wondering if its worth thee hassle for the floors
|
|
Reply With Quote
|
07-18-2020, 01:13 AM
|
#20
|
|
Member
|
|
Join Date: Nov 2018
Location: Norco, CA
Posts: 37
|
|
Member
Join Date: Nov 2018
Location: Norco, CA
Posts: 37
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by 85GT-79FJ40
If you're only going to do one area I would do the doors. I've done this on several different cars and the doors always seems to make the biggest difference. Don't use home depot stuff. Get something made for automotive use that's actually sound deadener. Quick roof isn't that. On my 2011 I just did behind the speakers on the doors and tailgate. Probably a square foot in each door. Not a big difference just for good measure. We use lizard skin a lot for builds at work and I plan on that for my upcoming fox mustang build. That stuff really makes a big difference.
|
ok doors are the biggest impact. How about the floors? Floors seem to be the most work intensive.
|
|
Reply With Quote
|
07-18-2020, 02:49 AM
|
#21
|
|
Senior Member
|
|
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: PNW
Age: 42
Posts: 1,395
Real Name: Mike
|
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: PNW
Age: 42
Posts: 1,395
Real Name: Mike
|
I don’t think the floor is worth it at all. If you had a dedicated car audio show car maybe or you’re a complete audiophile.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
__________________
‘14 SR5 in white
Front: King ext travel 2.5 w/ adjusters, TC UCA/LCA
Rear: King 2.5 shocks w/ adjusters, Dobinson’s 3” Icon Billet lowers, Icon tubular uppers, PCK
Wheels/Tires: SCS SR8’s w/ Toyo MT 35x12.50x17
Full RCI skids
|
|
Reply With Quote
|
07-18-2020, 03:51 PM
|
#22
|
Member
|
|
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: los angeles
Posts: 305
|
|
Member
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: los angeles
Posts: 305
|
Wanted to do this on my 4 runner, But thought I would test it out on my old F150. I did the floor and the doors with dynamat. the Doors made the biggest difference they sound a lot more solid. the floor not so much. what it did do was made the floor a little cooler as the truck is a utility style with just a vinyl floor. It took two days, I took my time. My wife was out of town so I had the whole garage to myself.
As stated above you will get better the more you do and the hard roller is a must (They usually come with the Kit).
Would I do this to my 4runner? Yes but just the doors. I think the floor has enough ribs to make it rigid. all I would do is add some light weight carpet mat under the existing carpet (don't have a third row seat). Also as others have stated if you add this to the rear hatch you may need to up grade your door shocks.
__________________
signature not available
|
|
Reply With Quote
|
07-18-2020, 05:43 PM
|
#23
|
Member
|
|
Join Date: Mar 2017
Location: Washington
Posts: 571
|
|
Member
Join Date: Mar 2017
Location: Washington
Posts: 571
|
How to Install Second Skin Materials - Second Skin Audio
The reason people aren't getting good performance from the floor is because you are using a vibration damper, not a sound absorbing material.
Floor should be ~25% coverage with butyl / aluminum tiles, full coverage with mass-loaded vinyl, then a decoupling layer such as close cell foam to isolate vibrations from passing through the mass loaded vinyl.
covering with just dynamat is the same as using all butyl / aluminum tiles. You're having to put multiple layers because that's no the intent of that material.
This is something I put together from the old Sound Deadener Showdown. Don was one of the pioneers in the sound deadening for actual performance and not just slapping 5 layers of dynamat and calling it good.
Dropbox - Sound Deadener Showdown.docx - Simplify your life
Last edited by llDemonll; 07-18-2020 at 05:53 PM.
|
|
Reply With Quote
|
07-18-2020, 07:55 PM
|
#24
|
Member
|
|
Join Date: May 2020
Location: Tampa
Posts: 67
|
|
Member
Join Date: May 2020
Location: Tampa
Posts: 67
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by point1
ok doors are the biggest impact. How about the floors? Floors seem to be the most work intensive.
|
So all 4 doors....anything else worth doing or is that the best juice for the squeeze?? Not looking for competition level but wouldn't mind putting in the extra time if its going to be worth it and only take another couple hours. Can you get away with doing just a portion of tailgate without having it be an issue weight wise?
|
|
Reply With Quote
|
07-18-2020, 08:07 PM
|
#25
|
Member
|
|
Join Date: Jun 2017
Location: N. Cali
Posts: 57
|
|
Member
Join Date: Jun 2017
Location: N. Cali
Posts: 57
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by llDemonll
How to Install Second Skin Materials - Second Skin Audio
The reason people aren't getting good performance from the floor is because you are using a vibration damper, not a sound absorbing material.
Floor should be ~25% coverage with butyl / aluminum tiles, full coverage with mass-loaded vinyl, then a decoupling layer such as close cell foam to isolate vibrations from passing through the mass loaded vinyl.
covering with just dynamat is the same as using all butyl / aluminum tiles. You're having to put multiple layers because that's no the intent of that material.
This is something I put together from the old Sound Deadener Showdown. Don was one of the pioneers in the sound deadening for actual performance and not just slapping 5 layers of dynamat and calling it good.
Dropbox - Sound Deadener Showdown.docx - Simplify your life
|
Agreed 100%. Did this throughout my full interior. Dropped sound by 10 decibels.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
|
|
Reply With Quote
|
07-18-2020, 08:13 PM
|
#26
|
|
Senior Member
|
|
Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: Kansas City
Posts: 1,600
Real Name: Howard J. Turkstra
|
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: Kansas City
Posts: 1,600
Real Name: Howard J. Turkstra
|
I have had a lot of free time this year thanks to covid19, but I can’t go several days without the use of my 4Runner, so I have been doing my sound deadening a few hours (or a full day) at a time. I did the passenger side doors one day, then the driver’s side doors the next day, then the rear hatch, then under the hood, then the roof, etc. For my situation, it is working well. I guess I would put myself in the audiophile category (entire JBL system long gone), so I’m sound deadening everywhere I can. I still have to do the floors, the rear cargo area and the firewall.
__________________
2004 Limited V8 4WD 183k miles. Stratosphere Mica paint, Stone interior. Too many mods to list here.
|
|
Reply With Quote
|
07-18-2020, 10:55 PM
|
#27
|
Member
|
|
Join Date: May 2020
Location: Tampa
Posts: 67
|
|
Member
Join Date: May 2020
Location: Tampa
Posts: 67
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by ads2539
I have had a lot of free time this year thanks to covid19, but I can’t go several days without the use of my 4Runner, so I have been doing my sound deadening a few hours (or a full day) at a time. I did the passenger side doors one day, then the driver’s side doors the next day, then the rear hatch, then under the hood, then the roof, etc. For my situation, it is working well. I guess I would put myself in the audiophile category (entire JBL system long gone), so I’m sound deadening everywhere I can. I still have to do the floors, the rear cargo area and the firewall.
|
Are you doing full 3 step process or just putting down SDM?? What did you go with?
|
|
Reply With Quote
|
07-19-2020, 12:33 AM
|
#28
|
|
Senior Member
|
|
Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: Kansas City
Posts: 1,600
Real Name: Howard J. Turkstra
|
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: Kansas City
Posts: 1,600
Real Name: Howard J. Turkstra
|
I’m doing a two step process with Noico brand products: 1) 80 mil thick SDM, followed by 2) 170 mil thick closed-cell polyethylene foam waterproof sound insulation. Amazon no longer carries the 170 mil thick foam, but they do have 150 mil thick foam in several colors.
__________________
2004 Limited V8 4WD 183k miles. Stratosphere Mica paint, Stone interior. Too many mods to list here.
|
|
Reply With Quote
|
07-19-2020, 07:49 AM
|
#29
|
Member
|
|
Join Date: May 2020
Location: Tampa
Posts: 67
|
|
Member
Join Date: May 2020
Location: Tampa
Posts: 67
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by ads2539
I’m doing a two step process with Noico brand products: 1) 80 mil thick SDM, followed by 2) 170 mil thick closed-cell polyethylene foam waterproof sound insulation. Amazon no longer carries the 170 mil thick foam, but they do have 150 mil thick foam in several colors.
|
How has it gone so far?? Was looking for MLV but am scared I will not be able to fit the door back on if doing so. Any issues so far with getting the door back on with the 2 layers??
***EDIT***
Have read a couple threads about moisture issues long term. Being in FL am I missing anything by just doing the SDM and MLV?? Any issues to be aware of???
Last edited by Tonka23; 07-19-2020 at 08:46 AM.
|
|
Reply With Quote
|
07-19-2020, 10:35 AM
|
#30
|
|
Senior Member
|
|
Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: Kansas City
Posts: 1,600
Real Name: Howard J. Turkstra
|
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: Kansas City
Posts: 1,600
Real Name: Howard J. Turkstra
|
I was able to get all four of my doors put back together with no issues, but I did avoid putting insulation on the high spots on the doors. I left all the factory “padding” on the door cards. The only issue I ever have when working on my 4R is having bolts and fasteners left over after I’m done putting everything back together.
I don’t know anything about dealing with the moisture/humidity issues of sound insulation/deadening. It gets humid in Chicago, but nothing like Florida. The closed-cell foam I used is allegedly waterproof, and I assume the sound deadener is too. I can’t see how it would attract/retain water at all.
__________________
2004 Limited V8 4WD 183k miles. Stratosphere Mica paint, Stone interior. Too many mods to list here.
Last edited by ads2539; 07-19-2020 at 10:46 AM.
Reason: Minor change
|
|
Reply With Quote
|
Thread Tools |
|
Display Modes |
Rate This Thread |
Linear Mode
|
|
Posting Rules
|
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts
HTML code is On
|
|
|
|