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Old 08-22-2019, 01:03 PM #91
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A stock Porsche 930 (turbo air cooled 911) had 2" spacers from the factory.

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Old 08-22-2019, 01:40 PM #92
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Originally Posted by Ryan at Eibach View Post
A stock Porsche 930 (turbo air cooled 911) had 2" spacers from the factory.

Ryan
Really? That's pretty wild.

Were they double stacked with studs built into each spacer? Or did they install a single spacer with thru-holes and proper length studs installed on the hubs? The latter is much safer than the former.
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Old 08-22-2019, 02:00 PM #93
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ryan at Eibach View Post
A stock Porsche 930 (turbo air cooled 911) had 2" spacers from the factory.



Ryan


This.

Also, When properly installed and quality materials used there are no issues.


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Old 08-22-2019, 02:20 PM #94
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Originally Posted by brtnstrns View Post
Really? That's pretty wild.

Were they double stacked with studs built into each spacer? Or did they install a single spacer with thru-holes and proper length studs installed on the hubs? The latter is much safer than the former.
No, they were one piece with proper length studs inserted into the hub. You know the Germans tested it
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Old 03-27-2020, 12:26 AM #95
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JEEZ. Second guessing getting these. User error is what most people are saying this is caused by, hopefully I can get em done right
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Old 03-27-2020, 11:03 AM #96
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If you install Spidertrax, do them yourself or have a reputable shop torque them and then your wheel nuts according to the instructions.

They can be a headache once you have them on since many tire shops and some dealers won't mess with them and will refuse to install tires, rotate them, or even fix a puncture if they find out.

Also, those shops who WILL work on a vehicle with them installed may still send the 19 year old kid with an impact gun to torque them to 170 lbs and stretch/destroy the wheel studs.
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Old 03-27-2020, 11:26 AM #97
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The issue with spacers is when the studs are over torqued, they are stretched and weakened. Tighter is not better. Tighten to spec with a calibrated torque wrench (I prefer name brand like my Matco) and use Loctite. You will never have a failure. I did mine at 90 ft/lbs, used a lot of loctite, and triple checked every lug before the loctite dried.

Another note: Some people recommend to re-torque after a few hundred or a few thousand miles. I don't agree with this; if you use red loctite, you would break the bond if you tried to re-torque. This is the same concept when building engines. The only bolts when building an engine that need re-torquing would be head steads with cast aluminum heads, since loctite is not used, gaskets compress, and cast aluminum may flex under heat. With a wheel spacer, the billet aluminum does not flex or change with heat.

If you want to double check after a few hundred or thousand miles, turn the torque wrench back 5 lbs and check every lug, this way you know its tight without breaking loose the loctite. My 2 cents.

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