So I was wiring my AOB switch for my anytime backup camera and completely misunderstood which wires to tap. I tapped into the green and grey wires of the ACTUAL dimmer switch... like an idiot. Quickly realized those weren’t correct after plugging in the switch and it did nothing. May have even tried the RED and GREEN wires for the switched source and pressed he switch, can’t remember.

Anyway, nothing happened and all is well and with my APB switch. The dimmer switch works but I just noticed that if I dim the lights and then tap on the switch with my finger the lights will get brighter with each tap. Any wiring gurus wanna comment on if I may have ruined my dimmer switch or possibly hurt something else? Just concerned is all. Thanks.



Sig didn’t post; I have a 2016 4Runner trail premium.

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Did you use the guillotine style splice connectors? Hopefully not.

Which connectors/taps would be better to use?

I used t taps.... left them on there for right now because I don’t have any shrink tubing small enough to go on those tiny wires... probably 24-26 AWG. Also didn’t have a tool small enough to depin the rheostat harness... should be fine for right now. (Didn’t wanna use electrical tape because that stuff is garbage)


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So does anyone know what all is on that rheostat circuit? And why would the switch still function for the most part but when it’s dimmed and you tap the dash the lights flash...


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Long shot here. Maybe you cut some of the strands of wire using the t taps and have to much resistance now. t taps are known for damaging wires.

Hi Zmartin19,

The Green (POS) and Gray (NEG) wires are only for the "Illumination circuit", e.g., instrument cluster, center console illumination, dash switches...etc. if you wired the AOB switch contacts across the green and grey wires (with the parking/headlights on), you may have burned the carbon pile or rheostat resistor.

This may have caused it's wiper contact (common) to fuse and break... can't be sure unless some tests are performed. The dimmer dial is wired Directly to the 'Main body ECU compu network' which is the main processor over ALL 26 or 27 ecu's in the vehicle's interior!

If it were up to me, I would run a few tests on the dimmer dial (using an ohm meter) to prove or dis-prove it's proper functionality. If it fails the analysis testing, I'd order a new one off ebay (they run from $10 to $30 bucks): https://www.ebay.com/itm/Toyota-4Run...1:pf:0&vxp=mtr



Just search for the one that fits your truck... this one was just an example for a GEN-4 4Runner; not sure if it'll fit GEN-5! 'Best to you',

rig