10-26-2018, 02:48 PM
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#16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Crocket
...the JL speakers used above were 4ohm speakers. The JBL speakers were 3ohm. In other audio threads I've read guys are using 2ohm Infinity Kappas??? Something is not right. The speaker impedance should be matched to A) what the stock speaker was and/or B) what the factory deck is designed to drive at. I'm a little surprised that everyone in these threads is claiming such great results with no issues with such a varied use of speaker resistances. Some decks must be running quite hot as a result I would think.
As I understand it, since the dash speakers are wired in with the door speakers, we should be using a 2 ohm speaker in this case (or as close to it as possible). Am I correct, or is the Toyota deck versatile enough where is doesn't really matter?
Thanks.
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Speakers of lower resistance (ohms) require less power to drive them. Speakers don't have to be of matching resistance, but total resistance (based on Ohm's Law) varies with how they are wired - i.e., series versus parallel. You can find some related info in the thread at Ohm's Law in Car Audio
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10-26-2018, 03:15 PM
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#17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 57HotrodVW
Speakers of lower resistance (ohms) require less power to drive them. Speakers don't have to be of matching resistance, but total resistance (based on Ohm's Law) varies with how they are wired - i.e., series versus parallel. You can find some related info in the thread at Ohm's Law in Car Audio
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I agree with using Ohms law to calculate the load. It is important to know the load on the amp/headunit. It is also helpful to know the specs of the amplifier/headunit. Not all amplifiers are 1 ohm stable. Some probably aren't 2 ohm stable.
"As the ohms drop, the amplifier will unleash more power, but with less control. This is an important aspect to remember. Failing to understand this concept is probably the main cause of self installed amplifiers shutting down and going into protection mode."
From this article: 2 Ohm, 4 Ohm, 1 Ohm, what's the difference? - Car Stereo Reviews & News + Tuning, Wiring, How to Guide's
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10-26-2018, 03:56 PM
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#18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Crocket
Cool install and write-ups from both guys above (one doing the JL the other the JBL speakers), thanks for the awesome details.
One thing confuses me though....the JL speakers used above were 4ohm speakers. The JBL speakers were 3ohm. In other audio threads I've read guys are using 2ohm Infinity Kappas??? Something is not right. The speaker impedance should be matched to A) what the stock speaker was and/or B) what the factory deck is designed to drive at. I'm a little surprised that everyone in these threads is claiming such great results with no issues with such a varied use of speaker resistances. Some decks must be running quite hot as a result I would think.
As I understand it, since the dash speakers are wired in with the door speakers, we should be using a 2 ohm speaker in this case (or as close to it as possible). Am I correct, or is the Toyota deck versatile enough where is doesn't really matter?
Thanks.
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As a bass player with my eden amp you could use 2 ohm bass cabs. If you used an 8 ohm cab it didn't affect my amp except for volume. Lower ohms will put out more volume. If you run two 8 ohm cabs together it changes the ohm to 4 for the cab. IMO, the only affect you may have by using different ohms would be variable volumes from different speakers when setting volume from the head unit.
Maybe I'm wrong but in my bass playing head that makes since.
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10-27-2018, 09:48 AM
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#19
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Great job and write ups! Thanks for sharing! JL, blockers, and adapters ordered. It will probably be a couple of weeks before I can get to it.
Anybody have some stock dash tweeter mounts that they don't need? I will buy them.
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10-27-2018, 01:19 PM
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#20
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Has anybody done this mod on a stock JBL system? I have a blow speaker that needs to be replaced but definitely don't want to go with factory. Thoughts?
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10-27-2018, 02:17 PM
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#21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PopsSmith
Has anybody done this mod on a stock JBL system? I have a blow speaker that needs to be replaced but definitely don't want to go with factory. Thoughts?
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Yeah I have the JBL system in my limited and I swapped them out with the same JL 3.5 inch speakers. The sound is significantly better than stock. Also just installed the JL audio C2 6x9’s in the door and dampened my doors with some Noico 80 mil from amazon. The difference is unreal. There’s actually bass in the cabin with the 6x9’s to where I might not get a sub. They make my rear door speakers sound awful compared to the front. I think I want to get rid of all of the speakers before deciding on whether I want to add a sub.
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10-27-2018, 02:35 PM
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#22
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best bang for your buck diy upgrade! Bass is decent on stock speakers so this dash speaker upgrade really helps.
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10-30-2018, 10:53 AM
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#23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mikey_Cheng
Yeah I have the JBL system in my limited and I swapped them out with the same JL 3.5 inch speakers. The sound is significantly better than stock. Also just installed the JL audio C2 6x9’s in the door and dampened my doors with some Noico 80 mil from amazon. The difference is unreal. There’s actually bass in the cabin with the 6x9’s to where I might not get a sub. They make my rear door speakers sound awful compared to the front. I think I want to get rid of all of the speakers before deciding on whether I want to add a sub.
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did you have to do any mods to fit the JL audio C2 6x9’s or were they plug and play? Did you test the sound upgrade w/ just the speakers before you installed the Noico? I installed Noknoise and it helped sound w/o changing speakers.
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10-30-2018, 09:13 PM
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#24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Neauxla
did you have to do any mods to fit the JL audio C2 6x9’s or were they plug and play? Did you test the sound upgrade w/ just the speakers before you installed the Noico? I installed Noknoise and it helped sound w/o changing speakers.
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I bought the metra 6x9 mounting kit on amazon and it was pretty much plug and play. I spliced into the stock wires using some connectors. I did not test the speakers without the sound dampening but I would imagine there would be a lot of rattle.
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10-31-2018, 11:20 AM
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#25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mikey_Cheng
Yeah I have the JBL system in my limited and I swapped them out with the same JL 3.5 inch speakers. The sound is significantly better than stock. Also just installed the JL audio C2 6x9’s in the door and dampened my doors with some Noico 80 mil from amazon. The difference is unreal. There’s actually bass in the cabin with the 6x9’s to where I might not get a sub. They make my rear door speakers sound awful compared to the front. I think I want to get rid of all of the speakers before deciding on whether I want to add a sub.
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How many square feet did you need to do the doors? Not that I couldn't use more somewhere else, but I see Amazon has 36 or 18 square feet available. And, sorry I'm a noob, but when you installed it I'm assuming you go edge to edge on the door skin... or do you do the inside of the door behind the door panel?
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10-31-2018, 12:33 PM
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#26
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I bought 35 sq ft of kno knoise and did my 4 doors and still have leftover. Haven't done my rear hatch yet.
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10-31-2018, 06:14 PM
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#27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HanginInUtah
How many square feet did you need to do the doors? Not that I couldn't use more somewhere else, but I see Amazon has 36 or 18 square feet available. And, sorry I'm a noob, but when you installed it I'm assuming you go edge to edge on the door skin... or do you do the inside of the door behind the door panel?
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I went a little overboard and almost used all of the first package of 18 square feet I bought in the front doors. I went edge to edge on the door panel and in the lower area where the 6x9 sits. You just need to make sure nothing gets in the way of the window closing. I ordered another 18 square foot box when I ordered the sub but I wish I would have ordered a little bit just to solidify the rear of the cabin.
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2017 Limited 4runner / BFG All Terrain KO2 285/70/17 / 2.5" Front and 1.5" Rear Toytec Spacer Leveling Kit / Race Relation Wheels RR4 / JL Audio C2-350X/C2 690TX/C2 650x / JL Audio 8w3 in JBL Enclosure powered by JL 500/1 / Sound Dampened Interior / Gibson Dual Side Exit Catback
Last edited by Mikey_Cheng; 10-31-2018 at 06:33 PM.
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10-31-2018, 09:10 PM
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#28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mikey_Cheng
... dampened my doors with some Noico 80 mil from amazon. The difference is unreal. There’s actually bass in the cabin with the 6x9’s to where I might not get a sub. They make my rear door speakers sound awful compared to the front. I think I want to get rid of all of the speakers before deciding on whether I want to add a sub.
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I'm planning to add some RAAMmat to my front doors, see how it sounds, and then decide whether to change the door speakers. I may do the same with the rear doors and hatch.
http://www.raamaudio.com/raammat-bxt...t-description/
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12-05-2018, 11:41 PM
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#29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mikey_Cheng
Yeah I have the JBL system in my limited and I swapped them out with the same JL 3.5 inch speakers. The sound is significantly better than stock. Also just installed the JL audio C2 6x9’s in the door and dampened my doors with some Noico 80 mil from amazon. The difference is unreal. There’s actually bass in the cabin with the 6x9’s to where I might not get a sub. They make my rear door speakers sound awful compared to the front. I think I want to get rid of all of the speakers before deciding on whether I want to add a sub.
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I've been wondering what the sound difference was from the JBL system and whether or not it was worth it, so thanks for posting! Just curious...doesn't seem like replacing the rear door speakers will significantly affect the audio quality up front, so why go through the hassle/money? My kids are the only ones riding back there anyway. ;^)
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12-07-2018, 12:26 PM
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#30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 57HotrodVW
To limit lower frequency sounds from being played by these speakers, and prevent "clipping" at higher volumes, I also bought a pair of 133 microfarad capacitors (aka "bass blockers"), to cut sounds below 300 Hz - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017AJ5ECW
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Fantastic write up! How do you feel about the 300 Hz cutoff? Do you think any higher or lower would have been better?
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