Good info and pics - thanks.

I am newbie here and appreciate the information and pictures.
Thank you for posting; I am loving this forum and community

I had this service done a while back, cured my 'clunk'.

The mechanic said they were all but dry. Ouch!

Neither. the backs of the pads and the pistons.


OP - Thanks! great write up. I plan to do this at the next oil change.

Thanks TRDpro4R for your straight forward explanation and photos. As mentioned, some have been going on for years about this same topic: what is the "best" grease, use only this grease, how much, how often, ect., ect. and still can't agree.

Your practical advise on grease is the way I have done it for decades--pick one and use.

Good job!

thanks - clearest explanation/HOW-TO I've seen so far, IMO.... Doing this on my 14 LE, it has never been done even @ dealer when they did oil changes and included interval services.

Is the xl lock n lube fitting worth the extra cost over the regular for this application?


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With old oil (motor, diff, TC) it's always "out with the old, in with the new". However, with drive shaft grease, does the age and wear of the grease not matter? Is the only important factor whether or not there's simply enough grease?

Spicer, as well as most ujoint manufacturers, recommend greasing the ujoint until NEW grease starts to purge out of all 4 caps. While this creates alot of cleanup, having to wipe all the old grease off, it guarantees the ujoint is filled with new grease.

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On the u-joints I always go to where there is fresh grease coming out at all 4 seals, then clean up the excess. On the u-joint spider bearing essentially all the grease in the bearing is being "used" (heated up and degrading over time) so I think it all needs to come out, and it's what the bearing manufactures recommend.

The slip yokes to me are a bit different there as there is "reserve grease" that is really not all being "used" when the prop shaft spins, only the grease where there is movement at the splines is being heated up and degraded significantly, and as grease slings out the seal new grease is pushed into the area to replace it. Of course if you never grease then there won't be enough grease to move into the spline area and provide lubrication. But I don't see a need to purge all the grease out of the slip yoke ever. I sent you a PM.

I highly recommend a LockNLube grease gun coupler. Thank me later.

Amazon.com: LockNLube Grease Gun Coupler locks onto Zerk fittings. Grease goes in, not on the machine. World's best-selling original locking grease coupler. Rated 10,000 PSI. Long-lasting rebuildable tool.: Home Improvement

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I just purchased a CPO '16 Trail w/ 30k. I plan on doing this for piece of mind

old grease will have fine metallic material which could act like a sanding/filing agent which accelerates metal wear. However with the yokes its fairly sealed and grease is only exposed as it oozes out little by little

Great info. thanks.
Just what I needed.

Great tool! Just finished mine this afternoon using the LockNLube. It CAN be a little fiddly to get on to the zerk at certain angles, but once it's on, no issues at all.
FWIW - I am using Valvoline NGLI 2 rated, fully synthetic MOLY lube. Mine is 16350 miles old, and all 6 zerk points were essentially dry, what little bit that did push out of the spiders looked like dirty petroleum jelly...?