[Snakehn]

What type of film protection are you using? Does it come precut? I just installed my LFD bars and wind fairing 3 days ago, I left the rubber strip out as there was enough gap to prevent touch and debris accumulation but now the wind fairing makes a very slight contact with one side of the ridges of the roof causing to rub against the paint. I’m thinking about just using 3 bars for now as I’ll be mounting a couple of ROAM cases.

[LFD_Off_Road]

Originally Posted by Snakehn

What type of film protection are you using? Does it come precut? I just installed my LFD bars and wind fairing 3 days ago, I left the rubber strip out as there was enough gap to prevent touch and debris accumulation but now the wind fairing makes a very slight contact with one side of the ridges of the roof causing to rub against the paint. I’m thinking about just using 3 bars for now as I’ll be mounting a couple of ROAM cases.

Can you try to loosen the bolts on that crossbar and move it higher a little? There should be enough play in the bolt slots to get a little more clearance.

3M protective film strips on amazon, just need to cut it to length.

[johnnygraphic]

@LFD-What size hardware to mount items to your roof rack? I’m shopping for carriage bolts and want to know before playing the guessing game at Home Depot.

Thanks in advance!


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[BimmerChop]

Originally Posted by TRD PANTHER

Here is a couple pics from LFD’s website. I just went with four wide bars on BF 2 years ago.

I had spotted those on LFDs website, but thank you all the same, appreciate the help

Those 4 wide do look nice!

Anyone else have any shots of the narrow/wide mix?

[jmcelroy]

Originally Posted by johnnygraphic

@LFD-What size hardware to mount items to your roof rack? I’m shopping for carriage bolts and want to know before playing the guessing game at Home Depot.

I use 3/8-16 (NC) carriage bolts. The square boss near the head engages the crossbar slots nicely to prevent rotation while tightening the nuts.



Someone earlier in the thread asked about a Megawarrior basket. I mount my basket to the LFD bars regularly. I removed the plastic clamps that came with the basket in favor of installing some aluminum mounting feet (about $25 for a set on Amazon) that allow quick connect/disconnect directly to the crossbars using carriage bolts. 5min on and off.

Oh, use stainless fasteners for a touch of class ;-0

Jason

Mounting feet:


Mounting feet installed on basket:

[johnnygraphic]

Originally Posted by jmcelroy

I use 3/8-18 (NC) carriage bolts. The square boss near the head engages the crossbar slots nicely to prevent rotation while tightening the nuts.



Someone earlier in the thread asked about a Megawarrior basket. I mount my basket to the LFD bars regularly. I removed the plastic clamps that came with the basket in favor of installing some aluminum mounting feet (about $25 for a set on Amazon) that allow quick connect/disconnect directly to the crossbars using carriage bolts. 5min on and off.

Oh, use stainless fasteners for a touch of class ;-0

Jason

Mounting feet:


Mounting feet installed on basket:

Thanks for the info! Off to HD!

ETA: And the pics too!


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[LFD_Off_Road]

Originally Posted by johnnygraphic

@LFD-What size hardware to mount items to your roof rack? I’m shopping for carriage bolts and want to know before playing the guessing game at Home Depot.

Thanks in advance!


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Pretty sure you already went from the later post, but M8 or 3/8 work well.

[johnnygraphic]

Originally Posted by LFD_Off_Road

Pretty sure you already went from the later post, but M8 or 3/8 work well.

Thank you! I initially looked for M8 hardware, but couldn’t find any. I just got back with 3/8”. The square part of the carriage bolt does seem to sit just a bit proud of the rack though. I also have washers, but haven’t tried fitting them yet.

Thank you for responding here! Appreciate it.


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[Snakehn]

Originally Posted by LFD_Off_Road

Can you try to loosen the bolts on that crossbar and move it higher a little? There should be enough play in the bolt slots to get a little more clearance.

3M protective film strips on amazon, just need to cut it to length.

I will try that next, thank you.

[johnnygraphic]

Originally Posted by johnnygraphic

Thank you! I initially looked for M8 hardware, but couldn’t find any. I just got back with 3/8”. The square part of the carriage bolt does seem to sit just a bit proud of the rack though. I also have washers, but haven’t tried fitting them yet.

Thank you for responding here! Appreciate it.


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Just confirming the above. Carriage bolts don’t work. The square part sits too high above the rack. It’ll rattle like crazy. I couldn’t find 3/8 x 18, only 3/8 x 16 course threaded. Had to go back and get regular bolts with lock washers.


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[jmcelroy]

Mine have been working fine. I use the cross bars for a top box, bike racks, and a Yakima basket and swap out regularly.

Could be a difference in carriage bolts. Sounds like you have something perfectly flush the with cross bar that that is not sitting flat due the the square boss protruding. If I had that problem I'd look at fixing it like this:

1) Use different carriage bolts that have a shallower square section. This might be a PITA. I don't know what standards exist for them (I'm an engine builder, not a chassis guy . . . this is the only time I've really used carriage bolts in an automotive application)

2) Knock the corners off the carriage bolts a bit on the bench grinder. Not all of it, just the part that protrudes.

3) Use a washer with an I.D. large enough to fit over the square section so the square boss no longer sits proud of the cross bar

4) Grind/drill a relief in whatever you're mounting so the square protrusion doesn't not prevent it sitting flat on the bar

Jason

p.s. - I realized the thread spec I originally wrote was wrong and corrected a few days ago. TBH, the thread form doesn't matter, just the diameter. (SAE, Metric, USS, Whitworth, Acme, etc . . . it doesn't matter)

[johnnygraphic]

Originally Posted by jmcelroy

Mine have been working fine. I use the cross bars for a top box, bike racks, and a Yakima basket and swap out regularly.

Could be a difference in carriage bolts. Sounds like you have something perfectly flush the with cross bar that that is not sitting flat due the the square boss protruding. If I had that problem I'd look at fixing it like this:

1) Use different carriage bolts that have a shallower square section. This might be a PITA. I don't know what standards exist for them (I'm an engine builder, not a chassis guy . . . this is the only time I've really used carriage bolts in an automotive application)

2) Knock the corners off the carriage bolts a bit on the bench grinder. Not all of it, just the part that protrudes.

3) Use a washer with an I.D. large enough to fit over the square section so the square boss no longer sits proud of the cross bar

4) Grind/drill a relief in whatever you're mounting so the square protrusion doesn't not prevent it sitting flat on the bar

Jason

p.s. - I realized the thread spec I originally wrote was wrong and corrected a few days ago. TBH, the thread form doesn't matter, just the diameter. (SAE, Metric, USS, Whitworth, Acme, etc . . . it doesn't matter)

Thanks for the suggestions! Carriage bolts would've been perfect, but it was easier to run back to HomeDepot and get 2 new regular bolts. Kind of a pain to get a socket underneath it, but just a little jiggling and it worked.

I agree about the dimensions of the carriage bolts. It was a pain enough to find the ones that I did. I might try a trip to Lowes or Ace to see if they have other ones that might work better. But, for a future project. These are already on there and no need to re-do them.

Love all of the insight and experience from this forum!

[sactown]

I saw this pic and was wondering if anyone can tell me what these tie down loops on this rack are properly called and where I can get them..preferably in stainless. Thanks for any help.

[Old Tanker]

Originally Posted by sactown

I saw this pic and was wondering if anyone can tell me what these tie down loops on this rack are properly called and where I can get them..preferably in stainless. Thanks for any help.

Those are machinery eye bolts. McMasters has them in 316 stainless - check "Eyebolts - for Lifting". Or check Westechrigging.com for ones made by Crosby - stronger than any load you should put on the rack.

[johnnygraphic]

Originally Posted by Old Tanker

Those are machinery eye bolts. McMasters has them in 316 stainless - check "Eyebolts - for Lifting". Or check Westechrigging.com for ones made by Crosby - stronger than any load you should put on the rack.

They are prohibitively expensive (!). Over $20 each just for the bolts. Add in washers and nuts etc and you're well over $100 just for a set of 4.
McMaster-Carr