[007Tacoma]

Originally Posted by krhayes79

Can I please ask what high-lift jack mounts are you using to mount it on the side rails?

Thanks!

Those are the LFD mounts... just mounted on the side of our Full Length Roof Rack.

[jhguth]

For the gas tank skid, should I install the brackets before the skid or attach them to the skid first? Particularly the passenger side bracket that gets attached kind of behind the drive shaft.



(Didn't want to bother Jay about it, they're all busy with ATR stuff right now)

[TheBlandRunner]

Originally Posted by jhguth

For the gas tank skid, should I install the brackets before the skid or attach them to the skid first? Particularly the passenger side bracket that gets attached kind of behind the drive shaft.



(Didn't want to bother Jay about it, they're all busy with ATR stuff right now)

I found it easier to mount the brackets to the vehicle first.

[LFD_Off_Road]

Originally Posted by JRod0981

The new style of ruggedized crossbar is $50 more per bar than the old style. Is the only difference the slots cut into them? Seem's lot just for that difference. Or is it the slots and stainless steel? Or am I missing something.

The standard crossbars are slotted. The one for $50 more are made with 304 stainless steel.

[JRod0981]

Any reason to get the aluminum or stainless over the steel cross bars other than corrosion resistance? Any difference in strength for what you are using them to haul up there?

[Unretired]

Originally Posted by JRod0981

Any reason to get the aluminum or stainless over the steel cross bars other than corrosion resistance? Any difference in strength for what you are using them to haul up there?

My view:
Steel - strongest, but corrosion concern if powder coating chips

Stainless - negligibly less strong. Less corrosion concern but higher cost

Aluminum - less strong, but roof rack already has weight limits anyway. Some flex. Some noise particularly if empty (fairing helps). Less corrosion concern and least weight but higher cost.

I went with 3x Stainless crossbars - little more $ but least concern with flex, noise & corrosion.
In hindsight I probably could have gone Aluminum - I don't put anything real heavy up there and ended up getting a fairing anyway when i spread the bars all the way out.

Kinda depends on what you are doing with it.
Lots of weight on 1 or 2 bars (tent?) - go steel for strength or SS for strength/corrosion.
Just recovery boards, hi lift and shovel - I'd go Al for weight/corrosion.

[JRod0981]

Originally Posted by Unretired

My view:
Steel - strongest, but corrosion concern if powder coating chips

Stainless - negligibly less strong. Less corrosion concern but higher cost

Aluminum - less strong, but roof rack already has weight limits anyway. Some flex. Some noise particularly if empty (fairing helps). Less corrosion concern and least weight but higher cost.

I went with 3x Stainless crossbars - little more $ but least concern with flex, noise & corrosion.
In hindsight I probably could have gone Aluminum - I don't put anything real heavy up there and ended up getting a fairing anyway when i spread the bars all the way out.

Kinda depends on what you are doing with it.
Lots of weight on 1 or 2 bars (tent?) - go steel for strength or SS for strength/corrosion.
Just recovery boards, hi lift and shovel - I'd go Al for weight/corrosion.

This is a great breakdown. For now, it will just be ski racks so weight isn't a big concern. To start, i'm only doing 2 crossbars. But next summer it will probably be cargo and such either in a thule cargo box or full roof rack for gear when camping and such. No rooftop tent or anything though.

[jhguth]

[bedobe]

Originally Posted by JRod0981

Any reason to get the aluminum or stainless over the steel cross bars other than corrosion resistance? Any difference in strength for what you are using them to haul up there?

Though this does not answer your specific question, you might want to consider this. There is a big advantage in going with steel if you are a person like me who is always repairing/modifying equipment or looking to improve or personalize that equipment. With steel should there be a need to add a bracket or support brace, or something as simple as a capture nut or a tie down point(s), break out the welder and do it. [Yes stainless can be welded, as can aluminium but both are beyond the average albeit capable welder with average equipment.]

[krhayes79]

Just wanted to thank you LFD for getting my order out quickly and it should be arriving before my trip. Their customer service is amazing and their quality is unmatched.

Cannot wait for Black Friday sale so I can order my skids. Hope they have the fuel tank skid ready by then!

[NotaTRD]

When did you place your order?

I’m waiting to hear on the status of the trans and tcase skids I ordered 08/29.

[Deuxdiesel]

I ordered my front skid on 8/26 and it is supposed to arrive tomorrow, 9/20. The website did say 3-4 weeks on it, so pretty much on target. My question is how to coat it. I am not going to powdercoat it, but maybe bed liner over primer or just simple spray bomb combo that has built in primer.

[NotaTRD]

I had to do a custom invoice because the trans and tcase skids are not available to order on the site separate from their full skid package. I received a receipt, but no other order confirmation with order number, etc. I haven’t received any shipping notifications so submitted a ticket via their website, so hoping to hear back soon.

I’m in the same boat of painting vs powder coating. I was thinking of using Rustoleum self etching primer and a few coats of Rustoleum flat black, unless there is a better suggestion?

[Drobs]

Call a couple Powder Coaters in your area.

I had Springfield Powdercoating sandblast and PC my 3 Shrockworks Skid Plates in Hammer Tone Black. Total for all 3 skids was $60!!!

[Anand]

Originally Posted by Drobs

Total for all 3 skids was $60!!!

Here in MD I think shops would laugh at you for expecting a price like that!

FWIW, for my LFD gas skid I wiped them clean, then did a paint adhesion promoter, then several thin coats (maybe 3-4?) of self etching primer, followed by 3-4 coats of Rustoleum flat black