Unfortunately, no update. I have had two giant boxes of second skin luxury liner pro sitting in my basement for six months, but started a new job around that time and don’t have the time to tear things apart. I have enough to do the doors and floor, but I’m thinking of just having a local shop do the work with their stuff and sell the LLP. If there is an update rest assured I’ll post it here.


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Well after reading your post I have 90 square feet of SecondSkin Luxury Liner Pro and 136 square feet of KILMAT that is going in this weekend... Might of bitten off more than I can chew on this one...

Reading this write-up is giving me flash backs and wanting to install some SD on the doors of the runner.

DIY'ed a Second Skin Damplifier Pro and LLP install about 3 years ago on a previous car. Although not a 4Runner, I did learn a few things by doing it in a few stages and would probably approach doing the 4runner differently and selectively based on effectiveness.

The trunk and openings behind the seats was completed first and it did absolutely nothing in terms of perceived and measured noise reduction even with the LLP. With a sound meter, this registered 0db reduction at 70mph in the cabin. I would probably consider this the least important part. It did help with heat reduction in the trunk and probably would have been effective reducing rattles if there was a sub installed.

The doors were the best bang for the buck. With just the SD material, it vastly improved the SQ of the door speakers and also cut down perceived road noise although sound meter didn't register any db reduction. It felt as if there was a noise barrier draped around the perimeter while driving. With this completed, it was now pretty obvious that the road noise was penetrating through the quarter panels, tunnel, footwells, and floor boards at this point because the doors were dead silent.

I did the hardest parts last but were the most effective. Adding the SD and LLP on the floor boards, foot wells, quarter panels, and tunnel registered a -3db drop at 70 mph.

It was a ton of work in the middle of summer and probably added 80 lbs of weight but it was worth it after everything was said and done. For the 4runner, I'll probably load up on the doors and call it a day. I don't miss the sharp edges, cutting to fit weird angles on the floors and the awkward positions trying to get the SD material in odd places.

Maybe it's not that bad in the 4runner so I hope those of you that are eventually going to install throughout will share your process pictures. Best of luck!

peps, been reading this; interesting stuff; at a bit of an expense, time and effort; my hats off to you all; if your keen on noise reduction you may have missed the nosiest areas! ... you gotta hear this, lol!

In an attempt to protect the frame from rust and abbrasion, along with the wheel wells and underside of my 4Funner, and also found it helped with sound dampening; I sprayed the wheel wells, frame & underside with "rock guard"; 2 cans at $8 / can I was in a bit of a hurry, I sprayed all the open obvious accessible areas in two - 1/2 hour sessions without a lift and at times on my back. Now I also have an aftermarket opened exhaust that vibrates and is noisier than stock, so the sound dampening was noticeable and a great benefit, Both at idle and on the highway. Also I added a vinyl roof skin that helps with noise too! Just "me" observations that you all could benefit from too; my 2 cents -

I just lined the drivers door last weekend to prep for a speaker upgrade and it was much more of a pain in the arse than I thought. And certainly took longer. And resulted in a couple of hand cuts. Hats off to anyone attempting the entire vehicle

Just finished install of my OEM Plus speaker upgrade. All 6 speakers. I insulated the front doors and I think it made a positive difference, and the speakers sound much better than stock! I can actually play music now. Only issues I had involved getting the door cards back on. I hosed up the passenger side door. I reinstalled the door handle wires backwards so when I closed the door I couldn't get the door to open again! Door handles wouldn't work. Tried everything. So I unscrewed the door card from inside and had my wife pull the door away from the card on the outside. She wasn't happy

Then going to dinner I asked her how she liked the new sound, and...wait for it....she said she didn't notice anything. "I never really paid attention to begin with"

[QUOTE=Then going to dinner I asked her how she liked the new sound, and...wait for it....she said she didn't notice anything. "I never really paid attention to begin with" [/QUOTE]

that's my wife, i did firewall, entire floor and two front doors with 2 layers. door now closes like her old mercedes, a nice heavy door, and her response is it sounds the same. i ride in it every day and no way it sounds the same doing floor and firewall made a large difference.

Thanks for clarifying.

I see those pics and I think to myself, how hard would it be to fit Level IIIA body armor in between the panel and the door?

https://www.botach.com/battle-steel-...-black-coyote/

Similar to what Ford cop cars are armored with:

Police Vehicle Ballistic Armor Bulletproof Doors by Progard

And there i was, trying not to go there.
Kevlar Fabrics Ashtabula Ohio ArmorCo Advanced Armor

$28k to have someone else do it:
ADD ARMOR

I'm digging the extra features:

Smoke Screen
12 volt shocker door handles
Pepper spray

Put that much ballistic protection on a 4runner and it would never move. I like the glass idea for the windshield, maybe then i could go a week without a chip.

Would you say there’s little gain to the CLD layer vice the MLV? Why not just install MLV?

I’d say they accomplish different things and depending on your goal, work together.

CLD is very helpful in improving the sound of the speakers. By reducing vibration it mimics a speaker enclosure made of wood or similarly stiff material. This makes the sound focused. Others here can chime in with the technical details on how CDL improves sound. I noticed a difference right away - especially with reducing some of the muddy mid-base.

The MLV is designed to absorb and physically block out the unwanted sound waves (e.g road noise). Again, others should feel free to chime in here with details. When installing MLV, several videos I viewed recommended installing CLD first.

Would one notice a larger noise reduction from only installing MLV vs only CLD, yes. However, doing both will reduce noise (MLV), while improving the sound of your stereo. The “right” answer depends on your goals, budget, and time. I hope this helps.


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Im in the middle of doing SD on all 4 doors plus the hatch over this holiday break, and I couldnt be more frustrated. The first door (driver) took me over 8 hours with my OCD kicking in hard. Seriously just want to rip this shit off and just install the OEM Plus kit without SD, but will push through it.
Question for you guys: What are we doing for the large door access holes?
I attempted to use aluminum sheeting to cover them up and did a fairly good job only to realize the door skin wouldnt fit back on. After breaking most of the door clips trying to force it, I ended up ripping the aluminum covers off and now thinking of trying ABS plastic covers (cut more precisely for better fit) instead. If the plastic covers dont work, how important is it to reinstall the vapour shield? I ripped that stuff off and threw it away. Hate my life right about now!