01-07-2019, 11:38 PM
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#16
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Transmission fluid every 30k miles? Are you guys confusing diff fluid here?
I thought the trans fluid was a every ~100k recommendation on these trucks...
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01-08-2019, 12:09 AM
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#17
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The DIY maintenance sticky in this forum suggests 60k for the tranny and 30k for the diffs.
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01-08-2019, 01:37 AM
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#18
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Yeah, no offense but "black fluid" isn't necessarily bad. In fact it's likely lots of friction plate material in suspension, which as it joins the fluid, actually aids the friction of the fluid so it grips well.
Many folks have reported changing fluid and actually having their transmissions starting to slip thereafter, because their friction plates are lowish, and without the extra grip from the powdery material in the fluid, they can't make enough friction.
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01-08-2019, 09:25 AM
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#19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Big_Cuss
Yeah, no offense but "black fluid" isn't necessarily bad. In fact it's likely lots of friction plate material in suspension, which as it joins the fluid, actually aids the friction of the fluid so it grips well.
Many folks have reported changing fluid and actually having their transmissions starting to slip thereafter, because their friction plates are lowish, and without the extra grip from the powdery material in the fluid, they can't make enough friction.
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What would you suggest my course of action be?
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01-08-2019, 10:09 AM
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#20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Big_Cuss
Yeah, no offense but "black fluid" isn't necessarily bad. In fact it's likely lots of friction plate material in suspension, which as it joins the fluid, actually aids the friction of the fluid so it grips well.
Many folks have reported changing fluid and actually having their transmissions starting to slip thereafter, because their friction plates are lowish, and without the extra grip from the powdery material in the fluid, they can't make enough friction.
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In our transmissions, what "friction plates" are you referring to? I'm not an auto trans expert by any means, but have done a good bit of preventative maintenance work on my own. Transmission fluid (hydraulic fluid) is utilized by the auto trans under pressure via the valve body and usually shift solenoids. Don't think we have friction plates inside our transmissions, which would wear and cause friction causing particulates inside the fluid. Someone correct me if I'm off base here...
More to the point of the OP's question, regardless of the make or manufacturer, there is always differences of opinion regarding auto trans maintenance "requirements"......Use Toyota's recommendations as just that, a recommendation. If you are hard on your vehicle, do the maintenance earlier. Most often it's a "feel good thing" to do it early, and if that makes you feel better about spending money you shouldn't have to, all the power to you. I will do mine at around 60K-80K, because I tow a bit and am generally hard on the trans off road.
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01-08-2019, 10:11 AM
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#21
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I’ve just finished dropping the pan, changing the filter (screen), and flushing via the cooler line on my three 4Rs. Dealer/mechanic advice was inconsistent, and I was a bit apprehensive due to the refill level check procedure. But, now having done this myself, in hindsight I would have done this at every 50,000 myself using the hose disconnect flush method (with filter changes at 50k and then every 100,000). And always use the Toyota fluid. It’s just too easy not to do it myself, and I just don’t trust the dealers to do it like I want it done.
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01-08-2019, 11:15 AM
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#22
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Most dealerships warranty their work. I had my beater galant timing belt done but the idler pulley was frozen so a new one had to be used. Somehow it got loose but they warranted it as they do a 12k? Warranty on replacement and repair. Cars worth nothing but they honored the repair.
Quote:
Originally Posted by mwebster22
I’ve just finished dropping the pan, changing the filter (screen), and flushing via the cooler line on my three 4Rs. Dealer/mechanic advice was inconsistent, and I was a bit apprehensive due to the refill level check procedure. But, now having done this myself, in hindsight I would have done this at every 50,000 myself using the hose disconnect flush method (with filter changes at 50k and then every 100,000). And always use the Toyota fluid. It’s just too easy not to do it myself, and I just don’t trust the dealers to do it like I want it done.
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01-08-2019, 11:21 AM
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#23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Orc
Most dealerships warranty their work. I had my beater galant timing belt done but the idler pulley was frozen so a new one had to be used. Somehow it got loose but they warranted it as they do a 12k? Warranty on replacement and repair. Cars worth nothing but they honored the repair.
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How would they warrante a trans flush service?
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01-08-2019, 11:29 AM
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#24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Olddudesrule
In our transmissions, what "friction plates" are you referring to? I'm not an auto trans expert by any means, but have done a good bit of preventative maintenance work on my own. Transmission fluid (hydraulic fluid) is utilized by the auto trans under pressure via the valve body and usually shift solenoids. Don't think we have friction plates inside our transmissions, which would wear and cause friction causing particulates inside the fluid. Someone correct me if I'm off base here...
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the 4runner has a screen in tranny.. so no clutch material created like GM transmission...
if the fluid does run hot above 200F then I would do the fluid change every 30K-60K miles.. since my runner operates at 175F 99% of the time I will do it @100K miles.
I use scan gauge II so I monitor it 100%..
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01-08-2019, 11:39 AM
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#25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mwebster22
I’ve just finished dropping the pan, changing the filter (screen), and flushing via the cooler line on my three 4Rs. Dealer/mechanic advice was inconsistent, and I was a bit apprehensive due to the refill level check procedure. But, now having done this myself, in hindsight I would have done this at every 50,000 myself using the hose disconnect flush method (with filter changes at 50k and then every 100,000). And always use the Toyota fluid. It’s just too easy not to do it myself, and I just don’t trust the dealers to do it like I want it done.
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So...I am considering also doing this myself. The one main part I'm concerned about is getting the correct amount in. Overall, would you say that the check procedure is doable?
I've read through multiple DIY threads on here, it's something that I want to do but also really, really don't want to screw up.
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01-08-2019, 11:42 AM
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#26
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Was super easy to me, I measure out and in amounts, add a little extra, then just follow the procedure to jumper the OBD port, get it in temp mode, when it indicates correct temp range, remove the pan level plug and check/drain or add for the correct level.
Transmission Flush on 5th Gen 4x4
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Last edited by mwebster22; 01-08-2019 at 11:55 AM.
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01-08-2019, 11:51 AM
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#27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Olddudesrule
In our transmissions, what "friction plates" are you referring to? I'm not an auto trans expert by any means, but have done a good bit of preventative maintenance work on my own. Transmission fluid (hydraulic fluid) is utilized by the auto trans under pressure via the valve body and usually shift solenoids. Don't think we have friction plates inside our transmissions, which would wear and cause friction causing particulates inside the fluid. Someone correct me if I'm off base here...
More to the point of the OP's question, regardless of the make or manufacturer, there is always differences of opinion regarding auto trans maintenance "requirements"......Use Toyota's recommendations as just that, a recommendation. If you are hard on your vehicle, do the maintenance earlier. Most often it's a "feel good thing" to do it early, and if that makes you feel better about spending money you shouldn't have to, all the power to you. I will do mine at around 60K-80K, because I tow a bit and am generally hard on the trans off road.
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The A750f transmission has IIRC 7 clutch packs. It's similar to most traditional automatics with multiple planetary gear sets. Shifting planetary gear sets is normally done with clutch packs. They should see very little wear. The reason is that the torque management reduces load before the shifts happen. They basically don't wear out. A million miles is probably about the typical service life. There's a reason you never see threads about rebuilding these automatics. I don't think you'll hurt anything by replacing the fluid. But you probably won't help anything either. Fluid color doesn't have much value in identifying the properties of the oil. I suppose you could have it analyzed by a lab - but unless you also know what the goal is - how would you know whether to replace or not?
From the anecdotal evidence department of irrelevant information - My last 4runner got an trans oil change at 200k miles. I did timing belt #2 and also replaced every rubber hose and belt under the hood and all the oils and gear lubes as a full 200k service. It was also the first diff and transfer case fluid change it ever had. No problems with it ever. Probably didn't need it. I'm sure it's still driving around out there somewhere.
Here's an exploded view of the A750F with all of the clutch packs. (they're the parts that look like the olympic rings)
Last edited by Jetboy; 01-08-2019 at 12:11 PM.
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01-08-2019, 12:37 PM
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#28
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Do it yourself - save $$$ - and - you'll know something was actually done
All you need to set the fluid level is a small paper clip.
Writeup in 2nd Gen forum - tacomaworld.com - uses same transmission(s) as 5th Gen 4R.
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01-08-2019, 01:07 PM
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#29
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^This one?
DIY: Full Flush for Automatic Transmission | Tacoma World
Man, I wish this was as easy as doing the trans fluid on my e36 m3. I guess that's the manual to auto difference.
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01-08-2019, 02:14 PM
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#30
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