Sorry, that is a bit confusing of a statement...

I NOW prefer a standard 2WD w/ a proper 4WD mechanical transfer (as found in the ORs). Just a more simple mechanical design, and since we like to keep our vehicles long-term, we are looking for longevity in a design.

Our 4G has gotten us around extremely well. Just concerned because at our mileage, when the BIG things start wearing out it could get expensive fast.

Although the lever is mechanical the system still uses the automatic disconnecting differential system that uses electronic servo. With the trail model you just delete one electronic element but those rarely fail.

I had an 04 sport and yes things can get expensive fast when they start failing.

My personal option is if you liked the way XREAS made your drive, you'll like KDSS. I drove a 15 SR5 for a while and couldn't get use to the roll in cornering after 12 years with XREAS. Thats a why I now drive a 17 ORP. Not the same but it really dampens the roll in cornering. Like I said personal opinion - drive with and without and see what you think.

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I suspect DAC and Crawl Control has some overlap in function which is why they might have removed it?

I've used DAC on multiple occasions... it's an interesting system only having to use one peddle, weird and cool at the same time. Needs independent control of each wheel during descent so if you have a locker, must disengage.

The previous transfer case was fully mechanical as well, not a clutch based or other system.

Unless you were referring to the physical lever in which you shift the truck into 4WD... that I like too. I would have preferred that over the electronic actuator. Even my friends GX is a shift lever.

I have future plans of converting my 4th gen to a lever shift if I ever have an issue with the electronics... but even with over 200k on the clock, its been reliable.

I've found the best way to get a good price is two things.

First is to shop around a bit. I have well over 6 Toyota dealerships within an hour drive and they all want to make the "sale". Once you start pitting them against each other prices drop a little.

After you think you've gotten the best price from the dealerships lookup the local Costco car sales and get the pre determined Costco price and see if anyone came close to it. In my case it was still $2000 better than the dealership.

After that, dial up the local AAA auto source sales guy and ask what price they can get for you. In my case is was $2000 cheaper than Costco price!! Not to mention no bullshit up sale tactics, like extended warranty, undercoating, window protection, etc, etc. I was in and out of AAA in 30 minutes trade in and all. Bam, done. The dealership takes all F'ing day to get the deal done with all their BS. Time is of more value to me than anything else. 30 minutes on my lunch hour vs. 7 hours of my Saturday...no contest.

Also, year end clearance sounds like a gimmick, but no dealership wants to have a 2018 model hanging around at the beginning of 2019 or even in November/December for that matter.

I've also figured out that if you don't get caught up in the excitement of getting a new car you have the upper hand. Be calm, realistic, know what you want before you go and you are much better off. It needs to be more like you're buying a new crescent wrench than a new car. Sales people prey on emotional purchases. As a matter of fact some of them make a living doing it.

Don't get caught up in "special" items like color, DVD players, leather seats, floor mats, etc. Coming across as indifferent to these "features" won't give the sales people any leverage. Once they know you just have to have multiple features, they really put the psychological hit out on you. Having a sales guy continually driving home how I mentioned I want to have leather seats 3-5 times during the sales process really rubs me the wrong way....It's enough for me to walk away no matter how badly I need a new rig.

Some of those items will come on the new rig anyway and the dealer will either charge you appropriately or take them out if you request it. Some will just eat the cost because they are lazy or can sense it sweetens the sale. But in the end you can always add any of that stuff later on your own, probably for cheaper.

WOW - I am aware of the Costco route - but I have NEVER heard of the AAA doing sales let alone trade-ins? Definitely something I will look into.


In your experience, 1.) does the AAA vehicle come from a local dealer 2.) what dealer do you have it serviced at?

AAA is great, I've used them 3 times now...each time saving at least $1k over Costco.

AAA seems to get the vehicle from various nearby dealerships. I'm not sure how they choose, but all 3 of mine have been different dealerships. This last purchase came from my local dealership 10 miles from my house.

For service you can take it to any place you want. Toyota Corp pays the dealership for the 2 free years of Toyota Care, so the dealerships don't care other than they all want the easy money from corp. I just take them to the dealership closest to my house even though AAA got one of them over an hours drive away. (Service manager is a high school buddy, so I get the no BS treatment from them as well)