[orcking]

I finished the front brakes with OEM rotors, pads and shims.
When I got the shims I saw that there were solid and slotted shims. When I removed my original OEM pads I only saw solid shims. So I only installed the solid new shims and threw away the slotted ones.

Then I was reading that the slotted ones go under the solid ones and over the pad. Is that a problem if I leave the slotted ones out or should I redo it?

Why is Toyota complicating the shims and install double shims???
I noticed that the older solid are little thicker than the new solid.

Is that a stupid design that was introduced during covid days...

ps: The job was not that bad... except for one stubborn bolt on the caliper. I used a 300 ft/lb impact wrench and it was still not budging... Lots of penetrating oil and , finally came loose. I would say that was the hardest bolt that I had to remove ever..... These bolts are put really tight, and the little rust from water in that area does not help...

Thanks

[///AIRDAM]

Originally Posted by orcking

I finished the front brakes with OEM rotors, pads and shims.
When I got the shims I saw that there were solid and slotted shims. When I removed my original OEM pads I only saw solid shims. So I only installed the solid new shims and threw away the slotted ones.

Then I was reading that the slotted ones go under the solid ones and over the pad. Is that a problem if I leave the slotted ones out or should I redo it?

Why is Toyota complicating the shims and install double shims???
I noticed that the older solid are little thicker than the new solid.

Is that a stupid design that was introduced during covid days...

ps: The job was not that bad... except for one stubborn bolt on the caliper. I used a 300 ft/lb impact wrench and it was still not budging... Lots of penetrating oil and , finally came loose. I would say that was the hardest bolt that I had to remove ever..... These bolts are put really tight, and the little rust from water in that area does not help...

Thanks

Did you remove the caliper to install new pads?
Those bolts that hold the caliper onto the spindle are locktite from the factory
You do not have to pull the caliper off the spindle to replace pads, you pull the long pins over the pads and slip the pads out of the top. The caliper does not have to be removed.
I cant tell you why the shim stack is so weird, but apparently you need the two, otherwise it makes noise from what i have read.

[orcking]

Originally Posted by ///AIRDAM

Did you remove the caliper to install new pads?
Those bolts that hold the caliper onto the spindle are locktite from the factory
You do not have to pull the caliper off the spindle to replace pads, you pull the long pins over the pads and slip the pads out of the top. The caliper does not have to be removed.
I cant tell you why the shim stack is so weird, but apparently you need the two, otherwise it makes noise from what i have read.

Yes, I removed the caliper to change rotors like I mentioned.......

Where do you apply the anti squeak to the shims? all sides for both inner and outer shim and to the pad?

I might just remove the new crap , clean my older shims that came from factory and reinstall them....

[///AIRDAM]

Originally Posted by orcking

I might just remove the new crap , clean my older shims that came from factory and reinstall them....

this is what 90% of people end up doing

[orcking]

Originally Posted by ///AIRDAM

this is what 90% of people end up doing

Oh well.. Re did the front and added the slotted shims under the solids..
Could not sleep if I did not do it.....

Finished rear brakes as well with new rotors and pads...

Took two days for both..

I hope I have good brakes for the next 50K...

cost me $650 in parts.....

I wonder how much the dealer would have charged me, and I do not really trust their work....

[///AIRDAM]

Originally Posted by orcking

I hope I have good brakes for the next 50K...

cost me $650 in parts.....

I wonder how much the dealer would have charged me, and I do not really trust their work....

My local dealer is $149 an hour for labor, so whatever it took you to do it, or whatever the book says the job pays, is what you would expect to pay in labor. Front and rear rotors and pads likely pays the dealer 1.5 hours. Its certainly a lot more time in a gravel driveway or storage building with minimal tools and no support, but having a lift and impacts and all your tools in front of you really speeds things up.

I dont ride my brakes hard, if i see something coming up that requires a quick slow-down from speeds i bump the shifter over and manually downshift to scrub speed and will continually manually downshift to help slow myself as i apply brakes to help me slow down. Taking an exit at speeds, i normally bump it down a gear and continue down in gears to slow me down rather than just trash the brakes. See a redlight on a highway at the bottom of a hill turn yellow, bump the shifter over and manually downshift it. Every time it gets down to 2000rpm i downshift another gear. When doing this, you turn the engine into an air pump, it isnt burning gas, its not hurting fuel mileage, its just helping slow you down. I normally get 100,000+ miles out of brakes on my vehicles, it really helps when you let the engine braking slow you down rather than burning the crap out of your actual brakes.
My wife on the other hand is doing good to get 40,000-50,000 out of brake pads. Rotors warped by 30,000 is the norm..... 80mph to 0mph right now.... Thats how she drives.

[orcking]

Originally Posted by ///AIRDAM

My local dealer is $149 an hour for labor, so whatever it took you to do it, or whatever the book says the job pays, is what you would expect to pay in labor. Front and rear rotors and pads likely pays the dealer 1.5 hours. Its certainly a lot more time in a gravel driveway or storage building with minimal tools and no support, but having a lift and impacts and all your tools in front of you really speeds things up.

I dont ride my brakes hard, if i see something coming up that requires a quick slow-down from speeds i bump the shifter over and manually downshift to scrub speed and will continually manually downshift to help slow myself as i apply brakes to help me slow down. Taking an exit at speeds, i normally bump it down a gear and continue down in gears to slow me down rather than just trash the brakes. See a redlight on a highway at the bottom of a hill turn yellow, bump the shifter over and manually downshift it. Every time it gets down to 2000rpm i downshift another gear. When doing this, you turn the engine into an air pump, it isnt burning gas, its not hurting fuel mileage, its just helping slow you down. I normally get 100,000+ miles out of brakes on my vehicles, it really helps when you let the engine braking slow you down rather than burning the crap out of your actual brakes.
My wife on the other hand is doing good to get 40,000-50,000 out of brake pads. Rotors warped by 30,000 is the norm..... 80mph to 0mph right now.... Thats how she drives.

1.5Hours to do both... I dont think so... unless they have 4 guys one on each wheel... more like 4-5 hours min...