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Old 01-03-2020, 10:44 AM #91
ZCYATX ZCYATX is offline
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Thanks RZRunner.

I ordered the Autoease kit for $599 with the kick open sensor. But the manual I received via email does not include the installation instructions on the sensor.
Any suggestion on the sensor installation? THX
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Old 01-06-2020, 07:43 AM #92
ToyDB ToyDB is offline
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I ordered and received a kit a few days before reading your post regarding the moisture issue. Thanks for the heads up! Any response from Autoease? What's the alternative location of the controller you mentioned?
I'm holding on installation until there is some clarity.
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Old 01-06-2020, 10:34 AM #93
r1verf3nix r1verf3nix is offline
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I have a kit for sale if anyone wants it? paid 500$ will let it go cheaper. PM me
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Old 01-09-2020, 09:37 PM #94
buckalew buckalew is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZCYATX View Post
Thanks RZRunner.

I ordered the Autoease kit for $599 with the kick open sensor. But the manual I received via email does not include the installation instructions on the sensor.
Any suggestion on the sensor installation? THX
Shoot me a PM with your email address.
I'll send you what they sent me. Not very good instructions...I ended up skipping the foot sensor for now. I was too frustrated from trying to fish wires.
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Old 01-16-2020, 01:00 AM #95
Steeups Steeups is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dandelos View Post
I don't suppose anyone knows a shop in SoCal (LA) that would be able to install this? I normally wouldn't mind tackling this myself but have a few too many things going on right now. I checked the AutoEase website but the only 'official' installer they list is in FL --

Where to install Autoease
Aiden James Customs LLC installs them in Socal. They are located in Costa Mesa. 657-233-3504. I believe he said the cost to install was $369 and I believe that included the foot sensor. He does not supply the unit.
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Old 01-21-2020, 07:49 AM #96
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Completed installation of my Autoease lift gate today. Installation is a challenge but overall pleased. Below are few observations that I hope other may find helpful.

1) Autoease responds via email within 24 hours if not sooner. Contacted them several times to get clarity on the instructions. The translation to English leaves a lot to be desired but Tao, the sales manager, was very responsive.

2) The CAN bus clips, and the alternative set Autoease sent, do not work well, CAN bus wires are very small and the clips don't pierce the insulation on the wires. I ended up very carefully striping the CAN bus wires and splicing the Autoease wires in. Autoease, after I advised them the 2nd version of the clips didn't work as well, advised the clips don't work and suggested splicing as well.

3) The power strut wires have a plug in extension set. The 2 extension slips are impossible to snake through the tail gate. I cut off the clips and splice the wires together using marine strip tubing.

4) Makes sure the wire bundle clears the roll down window. I had to re-route a bit. Check for clearance before reinstalling the speakers and hatch panel.

4) Autoease instructions appear to suggest placing the control unit inside the hatch but as a forum member mentioned, I share the concern with potential moisture. I was able to mount the control unit between the hatch and hatch cover zip tying it to the support bar which holds an existing junction box. That is, the control unit is between the hatch panel and the plastic moisture barrier.


5) You may find that the hatch may not always close completely if all windows are closed. The compressed air in the interior provides just enough resistance to prevent the hatch from reliably locking even if the two plastic buffers on the side of the hatch are removes as Autoease suggests. Cracking a window or door just a couple of issues provides enough to overcome the air resistance.

6) I haven't yet, and may not, install the foot sensor. The foot sensor is a one page generic version and it wasn't clear to me that you needed a fish a wire through the hatch gate following the same path as the main wire bundles. Didn't want to risk issues/headache of redoing the wiring. Not a big lost to me as not likely to need the optional feature but I might feel up to the challenge one day.

As others have shared, appears to be a quality/durable product but definitely not a plug and play and Autoease has a few kinks to work out on the 5th Gen 4Runner version to include much better instructions. On the other hand, Autoease was very responsive, via email and phone, when I had a few questions/hurdles.
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Old 01-25-2020, 04:28 AM #97
124runner 124runner is offline
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Update with some good and bad news:

Good: After my earlier post about how to fish the wires through the passenger side of the hatch I gave it "one more go" and was able to successfully run the wires with the connectors and all. Word of caution, I sliced my thumb pretty good when it met the sheet metal edge when I was pulling...dumb on my behalf. Once that side was fished down everything else was pretty straight forward and I was able to finish the wiring. So it was successful. Door opened from keyfob, button on dash, and the hatch handle. Cool...right? Yes, until the rain came...

Bad: First time we had a rainy day it just stopped working. So I took the rear panel off to check it...seemed dry, so I just unplugged the power, waited, and reconnected. Started working again. Reinstalled the panel and worked great until the next rain. I'm in SoCal, so rain isn't really an issue, except I installed it right when we had rain on and off for a couple weeks. So I went back and reset it and again it was functioning.

Here's where it goes real bad. The morning after a rainy night, I walk out to the hatch doing a Tesla Model X dance routine and beeping. It would go all the way up, then half way down and back up again. Over and over and over. I don't know how long it was doing it, but the neighbors probably had a laugh. In order to stop it, I had to hold the hatch (the motors are very strong) and unplug the power from the control box...luckily I had left the rear panel off because I had to reset it so often. At this point I just left it unplugged and let my anger fester for a few weeks.

It was after this incident I started to have problems with the hatch fully latching, and it even began to rub against the body at the hinge edge of the door. Something had happened. The panel gaps were way off...with the door shut, I could see the struts from the side panel gaps. At this point, I replaced everything back to stock and ended up taking it to a body shop this week to see if they could re-align the hatch. They discovered the sheet metal where the hinges attach had pulled up. They had to hammer the hinge area down in order to get the door to sit back where it should be.

I think this all happened when the door was "dancing" as it was doing it so rapidly I think it was jarring the hinges causing the sheet metal to "pull".

So yay! This was all a mess. At the very least that control box should absolutly be mounted inside the car somewhere. It would even be easier to fish the wires into the car than down the hatch sides. Yes the system seemed like a quality setup, but not an OEM solution. I'm frustrated and out 500 bucks plus 250 for the body shop to whack everything back to where it should be. When it worked, it was cool. When it went haywire...not so much. Ill be emailing them.
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Old 01-25-2020, 08:01 AM #98
RichinRidgewood RichinRidgewood is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 124runner View Post
Update with some good and bad news:

Good: After my earlier post about how to fish the wires through the passenger side of the hatch I gave it "one more go" and was able to successfully run the wires with the connectors and all. Word of caution, I sliced my thumb pretty good when it met the sheet metal edge when I was pulling...dumb on my behalf. Once that side was fished down everything else was pretty straight forward and I was able to finish the wiring. So it was successful. Door opened from keyfob, button on dash, and the hatch handle. Cool...right? Yes, until the rain came...

Bad: First time we had a rainy day it just stopped working. So I took the rear panel off to check it...seemed dry, so I just unplugged the power, waited, and reconnected. Started working again. Reinstalled the panel and worked great until the next rain. I'm in SoCal, so rain isn't really an issue, except I installed it right when we had rain on and off for a couple weeks. So I went back and reset it and again it was functioning.

Here's where it goes real bad. The morning after a rainy night, I walk out to the hatch doing a Tesla Model X dance routine and beeping. It would go all the way up, then half way down and back up again. Over and over and over. I don't know how long it was doing it, but the neighbors probably had a laugh. In order to stop it, I had to hold the hatch (the motors are very strong) and unplug the power from the control box...luckily I had left the rear panel off because I had to reset it so often. At this point I just left it unplugged and let my anger fester for a few weeks.

It was after this incident I started to have problems with the hatch fully latching, and it even began to rub against the body at the hinge edge of the door. Something had happened. The panel gaps were way off...with the door shut, I could see the struts from the side panel gaps. At this point, I replaced everything back to stock and ended up taking it to a body shop this week to see if they could re-align the hatch. They discovered the sheet metal where the hinges attach had pulled up. They had to hammer the hinge area down in order to get the door to sit back where it should be.

I think this all happened when the door was "dancing" as it was doing it so rapidly I think it was jarring the hinges causing the sheet metal to "pull".

So yay! This was all a mess. At the very least that control box should absolutly be mounted inside the car somewhere. It would even be easier to fish the wires into the car than down the hatch sides. Yes the system seemed like a quality setup, but not an OEM solution. I'm frustrated and out 500 bucks plus 250 for the body shop to whack everything back to where it should be. When it worked, it was cool. When it went haywire...not so much. Ill be emailing them.



That sucks. $550 out the window and a bent up truck.
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Old 02-04-2020, 12:03 AM #99
r1verf3nix r1verf3nix is offline
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Selling my kit just never got around to installing it after all. PM me
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Old 02-15-2020, 02:12 PM #100
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I'm glad I didn't jump on this when it first came out! I hope they get their sh*t together and revise the kit to address those issues mentioned. Most notably the location of the control unit!

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
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