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Old 01-03-2020, 10:44 AM #91
ZCYATX ZCYATX is offline
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Thanks RZRunner.

I ordered the Autoease kit for $599 with the kick open sensor. But the manual I received via email does not include the installation instructions on the sensor.
Any suggestion on the sensor installation? THX
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Old 01-06-2020, 07:43 AM #92
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I ordered and received a kit a few days before reading your post regarding the moisture issue. Thanks for the heads up! Any response from Autoease? What's the alternative location of the controller you mentioned?
I'm holding on installation until there is some clarity.
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Old 01-06-2020, 10:34 AM #93
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I have a kit for sale if anyone wants it? paid 500$ will let it go cheaper. PM me
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Old 01-09-2020, 09:37 PM #94
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZCYATX View Post
Thanks RZRunner.

I ordered the Autoease kit for $599 with the kick open sensor. But the manual I received via email does not include the installation instructions on the sensor.
Any suggestion on the sensor installation? THX
Shoot me a PM with your email address.
I'll send you what they sent me. Not very good instructions...I ended up skipping the foot sensor for now. I was too frustrated from trying to fish wires.
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Old 01-16-2020, 01:00 AM #95
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dandelos View Post
I don't suppose anyone knows a shop in SoCal (LA) that would be able to install this? I normally wouldn't mind tackling this myself but have a few too many things going on right now. I checked the AutoEase website but the only 'official' installer they list is in FL --

Where to install Ė Autoease
Aiden James Customs LLC installs them in Socal. They are located in Costa Mesa. 657-233-3504. I believe he said the cost to install was $369 and I believe that included the foot sensor. He does not supply the unit.
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Old 01-21-2020, 07:49 AM #96
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Completed installation of my Autoease lift gate today. Installation is a challenge but overall pleased. Below are few observations that I hope other may find helpful.

1) Autoease responds via email within 24 hours if not sooner. Contacted them several times to get clarity on the instructions. The translation to English leaves a lot to be desired but Tao, the sales manager, was very responsive.

2) The CAN bus clips, and the alternative set Autoease sent, do not work well, CAN bus wires are very small and the clips don't pierce the insulation on the wires. I ended up very carefully striping the CAN bus wires and splicing the Autoease wires in. Autoease, after I advised them the 2nd version of the clips didn't work as well, advised the clips don't work and suggested splicing as well.

3) The power strut wires have a plug in extension set. The 2 extension slips are impossible to snake through the tail gate. I cut off the clips and splice the wires together using marine strip tubing.

4) Makes sure the wire bundle clears the roll down window. I had to re-route a bit. Check for clearance before reinstalling the speakers and hatch panel.

4) Autoease instructions appear to suggest placing the control unit inside the hatch but as a forum member mentioned, I share the concern with potential moisture. I was able to mount the control unit between the hatch and hatch cover zip tying it to the support bar which holds an existing junction box. That is, the control unit is between the hatch panel and the plastic moisture barrier.


5) You may find that the hatch may not always close completely if all windows are closed. The compressed air in the interior provides just enough resistance to prevent the hatch from reliably locking even if the two plastic buffers on the side of the hatch are removes as Autoease suggests. Cracking a window or door just a couple of issues provides enough to overcome the air resistance.

6) I haven't yet, and may not, install the foot sensor. The foot sensor is a one page generic version and it wasn't clear to me that you needed a fish a wire through the hatch gate following the same path as the main wire bundles. Didn't want to risk issues/headache of redoing the wiring. Not a big lost to me as not likely to need the optional feature but I might feel up to the challenge one day.

As others have shared, appears to be a quality/durable product but definitely not a plug and play and Autoease has a few kinks to work out on the 5th Gen 4Runner version to include much better instructions. On the other hand, Autoease was very responsive, via email and phone, when I had a few questions/hurdles.
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Old 01-25-2020, 04:28 AM #97
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Update with some good and bad news:

Good: After my earlier post about how to fish the wires through the passenger side of the hatch I gave it "one more go" and was able to successfully run the wires with the connectors and all. Word of caution, I sliced my thumb pretty good when it met the sheet metal edge when I was pulling...dumb on my behalf. Once that side was fished down everything else was pretty straight forward and I was able to finish the wiring. So it was successful. Door opened from keyfob, button on dash, and the hatch handle. Cool...right? Yes, until the rain came...

Bad: First time we had a rainy day it just stopped working. So I took the rear panel off to check it...seemed dry, so I just unplugged the power, waited, and reconnected. Started working again. Reinstalled the panel and worked great until the next rain. I'm in SoCal, so rain isn't really an issue, except I installed it right when we had rain on and off for a couple weeks. So I went back and reset it and again it was functioning.

Here's where it goes real bad. The morning after a rainy night, I walk out to the hatch doing a Tesla Model X dance routine and beeping. It would go all the way up, then half way down and back up again. Over and over and over. I don't know how long it was doing it, but the neighbors probably had a laugh. In order to stop it, I had to hold the hatch (the motors are very strong) and unplug the power from the control box...luckily I had left the rear panel off because I had to reset it so often. At this point I just left it unplugged and let my anger fester for a few weeks.

It was after this incident I started to have problems with the hatch fully latching, and it even began to rub against the body at the hinge edge of the door. Something had happened. The panel gaps were way off...with the door shut, I could see the struts from the side panel gaps. At this point, I replaced everything back to stock and ended up taking it to a body shop this week to see if they could re-align the hatch. They discovered the sheet metal where the hinges attach had pulled up. They had to hammer the hinge area down in order to get the door to sit back where it should be.

I think this all happened when the door was "dancing" as it was doing it so rapidly I think it was jarring the hinges causing the sheet metal to "pull".

So yay! This was all a mess. At the very least that control box should absolutly be mounted inside the car somewhere. It would even be easier to fish the wires into the car than down the hatch sides. Yes the system seemed like a quality setup, but not an OEM solution. I'm frustrated and out 500 bucks plus 250 for the body shop to whack everything back to where it should be. When it worked, it was cool. When it went haywire...not so much. Ill be emailing them.
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Old 01-25-2020, 08:01 AM #98
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 124runner View Post
Update with some good and bad news:

Good: After my earlier post about how to fish the wires through the passenger side of the hatch I gave it "one more go" and was able to successfully run the wires with the connectors and all. Word of caution, I sliced my thumb pretty good when it met the sheet metal edge when I was pulling...dumb on my behalf. Once that side was fished down everything else was pretty straight forward and I was able to finish the wiring. So it was successful. Door opened from keyfob, button on dash, and the hatch handle. Cool...right? Yes, until the rain came...

Bad: First time we had a rainy day it just stopped working. So I took the rear panel off to check it...seemed dry, so I just unplugged the power, waited, and reconnected. Started working again. Reinstalled the panel and worked great until the next rain. I'm in SoCal, so rain isn't really an issue, except I installed it right when we had rain on and off for a couple weeks. So I went back and reset it and again it was functioning.

Here's where it goes real bad. The morning after a rainy night, I walk out to the hatch doing a Tesla Model X dance routine and beeping. It would go all the way up, then half way down and back up again. Over and over and over. I don't know how long it was doing it, but the neighbors probably had a laugh. In order to stop it, I had to hold the hatch (the motors are very strong) and unplug the power from the control box...luckily I had left the rear panel off because I had to reset it so often. At this point I just left it unplugged and let my anger fester for a few weeks.

It was after this incident I started to have problems with the hatch fully latching, and it even began to rub against the body at the hinge edge of the door. Something had happened. The panel gaps were way off...with the door shut, I could see the struts from the side panel gaps. At this point, I replaced everything back to stock and ended up taking it to a body shop this week to see if they could re-align the hatch. They discovered the sheet metal where the hinges attach had pulled up. They had to hammer the hinge area down in order to get the door to sit back where it should be.

I think this all happened when the door was "dancing" as it was doing it so rapidly I think it was jarring the hinges causing the sheet metal to "pull".

So yay! This was all a mess. At the very least that control box should absolutly be mounted inside the car somewhere. It would even be easier to fish the wires into the car than down the hatch sides. Yes the system seemed like a quality setup, but not an OEM solution. I'm frustrated and out 500 bucks plus 250 for the body shop to whack everything back to where it should be. When it worked, it was cool. When it went haywire...not so much. Ill be emailing them.



That sucks. $550 out the window and a bent up truck.
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Old 02-04-2020, 12:03 AM #99
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Selling my kit just never got around to installing it after all. PM me
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Old 02-15-2020, 02:12 PM #100
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I'm glad I didn't jump on this when it first came out! I hope they get their sh*t together and revise the kit to address those issues mentioned. Most notably the location of the control unit!

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
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Old 03-01-2020, 03:43 PM #101
TrD4runnerOffRoad TrD4runnerOffRoad is offline
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I am having a hell of a time fishing the wires through the tailgate for the power struts. For the people who have successfully installed this, any tips? I used a coat hanger, a wire loom, and still didnít work. Seems like the blue connectors are too big to fit.

Thanks Iím advance!
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Old 03-01-2020, 05:58 PM #102
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I ran into the same issue with my install. Might be possible to get the extension connectors through but I finally gave up and cut them off leaving able cable to splice them back once I fished them through. I happened to use a Klein brand steel fish tape to snake the wires through. There is an opening outside of the rear window channels. Just make sure to zip tie them down so they don't get caught when lowering the rear window. (Happened to me the first time around.) Hope this helps.
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Old 05-19-2020, 10:20 AM #103
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I just joined here so I could share my experience with this kit...

It worked GREAT after I completed the install, although that was HELL AT TIMES running wires like others had mentioned. I cut my finger to the bone when running wires and one of the connectors got caught and broke off from my fishing cord; so had to manually hook up the wires for one side of the lift.

I also did it on my wife's 2019 Limited and the fuse box is under the hood, not at the dash, so I had to extend one wire lead and punch a hole through the firewall to reach the fuses to get power.

Anyway, it worked great for ~2.5 months once I did the install, and my wife LOVED it.

And then we found out the rear window would only go down 2" and get caught in one of the cables -- I figured I'd fix that this spring once it got warmer.

BUT THEN.................

The other day it only started going up maybe halfway... Another press would take it up some more, then a little more -- then the next button press would start it down, sometimes coming all the way down, but more often coming down in several stages just like it went up...

AAAARRGH....................

It does seem to lock OK (and beep once) when it does finally come back down (or we carefully push it down) but we are NOT happy this started failing so soon.........

I've emailed Autoease, but so far -- NO REPLY -- maybe they're still shutdown, but gee, somebody ought to be checking and replying to messages...

I don't know if it's related to water or moisture getting into the control box or a loose wire somewhere, but I was hoping they could tell me which plug/wire or connection to check first. Or else I'll have to retrace my steps and check everything.

I'll keep this updated once I have more info.....................

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Old 05-19-2020, 10:24 AM #104
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* One thing which might help others when running the wires *

Since the install (which I'd had it before...) I bought a small endoscope (a mini camera on a wire) off of ebay for under $20.00 that has built-in lights and a pretty long cord. It connects to my iPhone by Wifi so it's easy to use anywhere (while the other one I got a few years ago needs to connect to a PC) and it has video and can also take images.

I'll plan to use that to help me re-route the wires around the rear window -- assuming I get the glitch in its operation fixed. It might also help me check on the connections without taking the whole back apart first, we'll see...

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