I know, the search feature is my friend. I searched a ton and couldn't really find the answer I'm looking for, so forgive me if this is a repeat topic.

Basically, there are a lot of good write-ups about changing the differential fluid and and transfer case fluids for 4x4 4runners. I have a plane jain 2010 SR5 with 2wd/rwd with 149k on the odometer. I purchased at around 135k and want to service the drive train as much as I can myself. The carfax says nothing about any of these services being performed, so I'm going to assume they have not been done in a while. There aren't any symptoms to report, I just want to maximize the lifetime of the vehicle and any performance gains would be a plus.

Main question: Since it's 2wd and not a 4x4, is the only real difference that I only have a rear differential to change? I just want to confirm that I will need to change the
- rear diff only (since I'm guessing the front differential does not exist on a 2wd vehicle)
-Transfer case fluid
-Grease the prop/drive shaft with appropriate non-moly/moly grease as specified in the manual and other write-ups
-I'm going to gradually drain and fill the transmission with Amsoil tranny fluid as per the write-ups usually linked to on the tacoma world site.
I plan to use Amsoil fluids where applicable, toyota OEM when I cant find them.

Am I missing anything for drivetrain maintenance on a daily driver, rear wheel drive 5th gen? Any particularly good write-ups you can point me to for this type of service? I can change spark plugs and simple things like that, but any reason for me to get a professional to do any of these? I don't have jack stands, but pretty sure I can get to where I need to under the vehicle without them for these services. Thanks for pointing me in the right direction

You do not have a Transfer case or front diff so all you need to service will be the rear diff and transmission. As for as the trans fluid I'd recommend staying with the Toyota WS trans fluid, unless whatever you use specifically says replaces WS on it. I won't even get into the whole Amsoil thing, other then to say check out Redline Fluids. Good luck.

Many thanks for the reply. The question shows what a noob I am, and I appreciate the info without ripping me a new one. I'm in Louisiana too, I'll check out redline or get Toyota OEM. Thanks

If the vehicle was serviced at a Toyota dealer, you will be able to find its service records at New Cars, Trucks, SUVs & Hybrids | Toyota Official Site. Click on Owners -upper right - then signup - get uid/pswd. You'll provide the VIN and all dealer service history will appear.

You can also enter your own service work, but beware that if you take the vehicle into a dealer for work, they might erase your history. This has happened to be twice when I took the wifes 4R in for warranty/TSB work. The dealer said Toyota Corp. did this. I called Toyota Corp. - they said "What???". The dealer removed it.

For the rear diff, use Super Tech 75W-90 gear oil. If you want to use boutique fluids, that's you business. Fill until it starts to come out the diff fill hole. In my case, that's about 3.5 qts.

The driveshaft(2WD) has a single zerk on the front and rear. For me, the easiest way to access both is to back the 4R up on ramps. You can start at the rear and then slide up to the front to get that zerk. Helps to have a large sheet of cardboard underneath to slide on. If you have no side tubes or step boards; sliders. you can likely just crawl under the vehicle from the front or the back.

Toyota ATF known as WS is available at the dealer or ebay. Best price on ebay. I've heard stories of dealers refusing to sell WS to customers. I have not had that problem, but use ebay for the better price. There's a how-to on doing a basic tranny fluid pan drain and another how-to for a tranny flush at Toyota Tacoma Forums - Tacoma World - 2nd Gen forum. Both the 5th Gen 4R and 2nd Gen Tacoma use the same tranny. A750E tranny - 2WD A750F tranny -4WD.

How to Drain/Refill Automatic Transmission | Tacoma World

DIY: Full Flush for Automatic Transmission | Tacoma World

Don't forget about the engine oil/filter, air filter, cabin filter, brake fluid, power steering fluid, MAF sensor cleaning; coolant. Use Toyota coolant. I had an issue with the Zerex/Valvoline coolant. Got Valvoline involved and received refund. Keep tires rotated and inflated.

No problem. What part of Louisiana are you in? I'm in the Baton Rouge area.

Honestly you don't have to spend the money on Redline or anything else super expensive. Mobile One from Wal-Mart will do just fine.

I'm Located in BR as well while I'm in graduate school, but I'm from Nola. Thanks for all this good info.
@ Lester Lugnut, I've already changed the coolant, oil and filter, air filters in engine and cabin. Wondering If I should mess with replacing the brake or power steering fluid since they don't seem to be having any problems.
What kind of issues did you have with the zerex coolant? I replaced my coolant with this concentrate and distilled water:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Cool. I'm originally from New Orleans as well. If you need any help with anything just give me a shout.

I clean the MAF about once a month because I drive from New Orleans to Baton Rouge pretty regularly, so keeping low mpg is a priority. Thanks for the advice on looking up the service record with the VIN. I'll use that to plan my upcoming maintenance at 150k.
So far I'm planning to: clean the throttle body and intake, replace Tb gasket, replace the spark plugs and service the diff/tranny fluid myself, do a couple transmission fluid rotation swaps, and pay for a mechanic replace the brake pads (above my level of skill, and even if it wasn't, it would probably take me four days to accomplish, so why not pay a professional?). I'm considering having a mechanic do the tranny fluid swap too if I can afford it. With school I don't have unlimited time and I think having a professional look at the vehicle while doing the service since I bought it used couldn't hurt.
@ Bayou Pro, any recommendations on good mechanics or tranny shops in Baton Rouge?
I already purchased Akebono ASP performance pads for the front and back due to good reviews from this site. Haven't purchased any of the fluids yet, but thanks for the advice that will save me money from buying expensive stuff.

Will do, really appreciate the offer and the info.

I do what's called a rotation drain on power steering fluid. I siphon it out of the fluid reservoir and refill at each oil change. Some will disagree with this. I know a few pros who don't. I have used this approach for 45+ years. No problema. Then again, some people never change anything.

There's an automated way to flush brake fluid on these vehicles. Something like pump pedal x number of times, open bleeders, turn ign. switch to 1st position; depress pedal part of the way - fluid will then self-flush. Someone has to keep and eye on the reservoir - keep topping it up as the fluid goes down. You do not want the reservoir to go dry. Use the search facility to find the procedure.

Last spring I changed coolant for the 1st time. I elected to use the so-called compatible Zerex/Valvoline product. While I was pouring it in, I saw all kings of white flaky substance as I neared emptying the 1st jug. Fast-fwding ahead, I contacted Valvoline, sent in a sample and was refunded my money for the product. Likely a fluke, but I'd prefer to not go through this again. I realize the same could happen with the Toyota coolant and dealing with that would be an even bigger mess.

Also - go to the 1st page of the 5th Gen fourm - top of page - Sticky's --> Mods, write-ups; quick links.

You are really wasting your time and risking possible damage by cleaning your MAF that often. That's what a good quality clean air filter is doing.

Your choice on the mechanic doing your brakes but's it's about as easy as doing the fluid swaps. At 150K miles you will need the rotors machined at a minimum but most likely new rotors. They are probably pretty cheap from Rock Auto. If you go with new rotors you can really do a front and rear brake job in about an hour.

I can get you in touch with a Toyota Master Tech that does side work and could save you some money. He wont try and sell you a bunch of service and crap you really don't need. If he says you need something then I can promise you that you need it.

If you were planning to do the tranny service I don’t see why you couldn’t do the breaks yourself as well. I have yet to do breaks but I did the tranny service in my gravel driveway with minimal headache-I used amsoil. Breaks will be the next project along w PS and brake fluid when it comes time. Plugs after that- hopefully no valve cover gasket issues.

Good luck with your maintence, this place and some of TW are great for info

I’m RWD as well

OP - I agree with Frenchy - if you can do the long list of things you layed out, changing brake pads will be a piece of cake.

I will locate a pointer to a factory service manual for a 2010 4R and post below. Same as yours as far as routine maint. goes You download - extrapolate and then you have 4765 pages of FSM. Not everything, but most everything a DIY type would need:

My Files

when I do oil changes @7K miles synthetic oil . I do the drive train fluid checks. if the fluid looks off color then setup the work to do the fluid change.
on my vehicles over many years I change the power steering fluid every 7 yrs. suck it out and fill it and then after a few hundred miles I do it again.

If the transmission fluid looks or smells bad then drop pan clean it up then add what you took out .. then check for any level issue . ws fluid is very good.

on my 4WD runner I grease the drive shafts every 7K oil changes but I do not over pump it.... .. just a couple of pumps of grease.

also rotate the tires every 7-10K miles and when you do it check all the brakes for even wear and any rotor cracks/rust/distortions.

use a torque wrench and double torque the nuts when you drive it several miles to be sure nuts will not fall off.

on brakes when I change pads I open the bleed screw and use a C clamp on caliper so all that nasty brake fluid in cal is gone..

also when doing brake work suck out the fluid from master res .. do not use a suck tool used on any other fluid.. must be only used for this brake fluid cross contamination will be a bad day..

do rear brakes first then front.

5th Gen 4R Brake Bleed - from 2010 FSM. It is mentioned below about the possibility of DTCs - diagnostic trouble codes - being set during all of this. Certain 2nd Gen Tacoma's use the same electronic vs. vacuum system used by the 5th Gen 4R. Over at Toyota Tacoma Forums - Tacoma World - a member who has this same system told me he's flushed in this manner a number of times and no DTCs were ever set.

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