02-08-2019, 07:38 PM
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#16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ElectroBoy
It’s almost like there’s some electronic device in the truck that has a keep-alive battery that’s preventing a hard power-on reset of the ECU. The Switch Pro doesn’t have that feature, does it? You may consider disconnecting it as part of your troubleshooting.
By the way, did you check the battery with a voltmeter?
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Maybe one of those GPS trackers. Seems odd that it would backfeed though. Only way to tell would be to check the voltage of the battery leads when disconnected
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02-09-2019, 12:34 AM
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#17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cndnmax
Maybe one of those GPS trackers. Seems odd that it would backfeed though. Only way to tell would be to check the voltage of the battery leads when disconnected
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@ Cndnmax
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02-09-2019, 11:20 AM
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#18
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@ ElectroBoy
I will disconnect switch pro as well. I used a voltmeter to check, 12.9V while engine is shut, so I guess battery is good.
@ rigtec
I will definitely try it and report back, thanks for all the help provided.
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02-09-2019, 05:31 PM
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#19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 370HSSSV
@ ElectroBoy
I will disconnect switch pro as well. I used a voltmeter to check, 12.9V while engine is shut, so I guess battery is good.
@ rigtec
I will definitely try it and report back, thanks for all the help provided.
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Okay
@ 370HSSSV
Good job and very consistent work; you'd be a very good Auto/Truck Tech my friend! Be sure the pull the "Short pin" and the "ECU-B" 10A fuse out with the headlights on (and battery terminals disconnected), and we'll erraticate this nuisance anomaly for good! 'Best to you'
rig
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02-09-2019, 05:37 PM
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#20
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02-09-2019, 07:02 PM
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#21
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Banned
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cndnmax
Maybe one of those GPS trackers. Seems odd that it would backfeed though. Only way to tell would be to check the voltage of the battery leads when disconnected
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Yeah, it’s a strange one.
It would be a good data point to read the voltage of the battery cable leads when they are disconnected. That is, the voltage between the two leads.
Before you do the shorting and lights-on step to drain off all the charge as
@ rigtec
described.
Just thinking if there’s a good capacity battery somewhere holding up the +12 v you might get a spark when connecting the battery cables.
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02-09-2019, 07:15 PM
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#22
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I had a similar problem, residual voltage, on a 2011 Ram 1500. Turned out my Type-C CLA when plugged into my power brick for my phone was feeding enough voltage back into my vehicle to keep the computer from powering off.
Most bizarre thing ever!
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02-09-2019, 11:14 PM
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#23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ElectroBoy
"...Before you do the shorting and lights-on step to drain off all the charge as
@ rigtec
described..."
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Hi
@ ElectroBoy
I've Never suggested that he short the POS and NEG cables together. My statement was:
Quote:
I would (under any other circumstance) tell you to pull the HOT and GND cables off of the battery and join them together (to discharge the power), but I can't because I don't know if the power source is large enough to do any electrical damage!
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And YES, I do wanna drain any residual static charge from the circuit e.g., capacitors, so I suggested leaving the lights, or blower on for that purpose; they can be turned off before reconnecting! "Just to be clear"!
rig, Cheers!
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02-09-2019, 11:43 PM
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#24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rigtec
Hi
@ ElectroBoy
I've Never suggested that he short the POS and NEG cables together. My statement was:
And YES, I do wanna drain any residual static charge from the circuit e.g., capacitors, so I suggested leaving the lights, or blower on for that purpose; they can be turned off before reconnecting! "Just to be clear"!
rig, Cheers!
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Yep, you are correct, rig. I had a brain fart, made a mistake and read your post wrong. In too much of a hurry. Sorry about that.
I owe you a beer.
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02-10-2019, 12:17 AM
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#25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 370HSSSV
@ ElectroBoy
I will disconnect switch pro as well. I used a voltmeter to check, 12.9V while engine is shut, so I guess battery is good.
@ rigtec
I will definitely try it and report back, thanks for all the help provided.
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That doesn’t really tell you if the battery is good. You have to also check the voltage when under load (key on, headlights on, radio on, etc). Also check the voltage wth the engine running.
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02-10-2019, 02:00 AM
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#26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ElectroBoy
Yep, you are correct, rig. I had a brain fart, made a mistake and read your post wrong. In too much of a hurry. Sorry about that.
I owe you a beer.
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Lol! No big thing bro, no love lost here!, 'Best to you',
rig!
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02-11-2019, 09:18 PM
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#27
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hey
@ rigtec
I did the reset again, everything reset, it stalled. And I have been driving for couple hours over the weekend, door lock didn't acted weird at all! Thanks for all the help you provided, I really appreciated it!
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02-11-2019, 10:09 PM
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#28
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Good job to all, I'm sure someone else down the road will find this very useful.
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02-11-2019, 10:16 PM
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#29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 370HSSSV
hey
@ rigtec
I did the reset again, everything reset, it stalled. And I have been driving for couple hours over the weekend, door lock didn't acted weird at all! Thanks for all the help you provided, I really appreciated it!
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Well 370HSSSV...
I really appreciate you allowing me the opportunity to try and help! And I am 'More than pleased' by the results. See, you stuck with it and look what happened! We can all learn from this experience... when these quirky type troubles start to crop-up on our 'Prized 4Runners', don't worry about it.
Stick with the basics; not the gravitational pull of the sun on Pluto and Jupiter combined lol! First consider what the vehicle is doing; does it make any sense? Have you seen this happen before? How old is the truck...etc! I've seen these quirky issues happen a thousand times, starting with my own, and 'NO ONE' could point me in the right direction; not even the dealership where I bought it!
They said it was because I installed a set of PIAA Fog-lights on the truck, so I knew that they were full of shipp! And the local (non-dealership) shops didn't yet have the software for this new Toyota (back in 2012). MY symptoms were: 'every warning icon on the instrument cluster was lit up' ALL of them! The Tach-o-meter and the Speed-o-meter were dropping out; as well as the cluster's back lighting, so I couldn't see the non working speed-o-meter at night!
So I was on my own. That's when I started to learn about the function of the 'Main body ECU Compu Network'! It's driven by software, just like my lousy laptop; which is ALWAYS acting weird; especially right after a Windows Update; which I no longer allow it to do, automatically! The problem: The 'Short-pin' had become a little loose, causing the MB-ECU to lose power! Anyway, thanks for the (fantastic) heads-up
@ 370HSSSV
'Best to you', and ALL the others here who have been so supportive and technically thoughtful!
rig, cheers!
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Last edited by rigtec; 02-11-2019 at 10:30 PM.
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02-11-2019, 10:18 PM
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#30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CavPro
Good job to all, I'm sure someone else down the road will find this very useful.
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