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Old 02-09-2019, 06:05 PM #1
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Stupid me, strippped sway bar bolt

I love admitting fault! While installing my lift spacers we disconnected the sway bar completely. I swear I started all of the bolts by hand and then used an impact gun only to zip them up before torquing correctly. However, I got distracted on one and let the gun go “too far”. Are these captive nuts that the lower mounts are attached to?

Am I screwed here?

For some reason the phone isn’t uploading pictures.
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Old 02-10-2019, 11:02 AM #2
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Impact wrench is not your friend. Unless you are up to replacing entire assembly you need to drill and tap for larger bolt. Cheaper and less desirable option is Helicoil (not strong enough for suspension parts) but you can give it a go and can tap later if Heli fails. GL
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Old 02-10-2019, 11:22 AM #3
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Look into purchasing a Rivet nut tool, Nutsert tool, or Rivnut tool, etc. Many price points and kits available. Works perfectly and is strong enough for most purposes.
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Old 02-14-2019, 03:26 PM #4
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Quote:
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Impact wrench is not your friend. Unless you are up to replacing entire assembly you need to drill and tap for larger bolt. Cheaper and less desirable option is Helicoil (not strong enough for suspension parts) but you can give it a go and can tap later if Heli fails. GL
Yep, I agree and usually very careful using the gun. Just got lazy and chatting with a buddy. Thanks, I'll have to cut the old one off and then assess what to do next.
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Old 02-14-2019, 03:27 PM #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DEERUNNER View Post
Look into purchasing a Rivet nut tool, Nutsert tool, or Rivnut tool, etc. Many price points and kits available. Works perfectly and is strong enough for most purposes.
Good idea! Thanks
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Old 02-14-2019, 04:48 PM #6
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I've already learned my lesson with using an impact to tighten or spin on fasteners...

That lesson also included learning how to change out wheel studs.
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Old 02-14-2019, 04:49 PM #7
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so the bolt snapped off use a reverse drill bit make sure the drill is in reverse ,, the drill will cut into the broken stud and then should unscrew.

not rusted so should come out with no problems ..

I have done this method on exhaust manifold rusted off bolts a bit harder to do when its rusted ..

I loosen studs then if a lot of bolts/nuts I use gun to remove..

I never use air guns to install because of a too much torque..I prefer the electric guns and I set to a lower torque spec which is much more accurate than an air gun..
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Old 04-24-2019, 01:39 PM #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kevinb_NJ View Post
I love admitting fault! While installing my lift spacers we disconnected the sway bar completely. I swear I started all of the bolts by hand and then used an impact gun only to zip them up before torquing correctly. However, I got distracted on one and let the gun go “too far”. Are these captive nuts that the lower mounts are attached to?

Am I screwed here?

For some reason the phone isn’t uploading pictures.
I just encountered the same situation. I stripped the threads. Were you able to resolve without replacing the part itself?
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Old 04-24-2019, 02:33 PM #9
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Which is stripped, the nut or the bolt? You might be able to just re-tap the nut for a larger bolt, or just replace the bolt if that is whats damaged.
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Old 04-24-2019, 03:06 PM #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jivewalker View Post
Which is stripped, the nut or the bolt? You might be able to just re-tap the nut for a larger bolt, or just replace the bolt if that is whats damaged.
It's the nut that's welded onto the LCA. Retapping didn't work. I got new bolts from Toyota yesterday to confirm and yeah it's definitely stripped threads on the bolt. It never fully tightens. I re-tapped using same size bolt threads and was too weak to hold a new bolt tightly.

Worst case I think the whole LCA is about $160 but the labor to install idk. Seeing what other options are out there before I go that route for a safe vehicle.
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Old 04-24-2019, 03:31 PM #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Prolex7 View Post
It's the nut that's welded onto the LCA. Retapping didn't work. I got new bolts from Toyota yesterday to confirm and yeah it's definitely stripped threads on the bolt. It never fully tightens. I re-tapped using same size bolt threads and was too weak to hold a new bolt tightly.

Worst case I think the whole LCA is about $160 but the labor to install idk. Seeing what other options are out there before I go that route for a safe vehicle.
If it were me, I would retap for a size or 2 larger bolt and get a larger bolt of the same grade. Nothing to lose before going with the $140 LCA expense. Just a suggestion but may work for you.
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Old 04-24-2019, 03:41 PM #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jivewalker View Post
If it were me, I would retap for a size or 2 larger bolt and get a larger bolt of the same grade. Nothing to lose before going with the $140 LCA expense. Just a suggestion but may work for you.
Thank you very much I appreciate the suggestion! I am going to have to try that.
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Old 04-24-2019, 04:58 PM #13
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Im confused which bolt we are talking about? The sway bar? you mean where it mounts to the rear end? Or are you talking about the panhard bar?
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Old 04-24-2019, 07:50 PM #14
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Sway bar end bolts are 12mm - you could even put a 10mm bolt through the hole with enough room behind for a nut.


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Old 10-08-2022, 06:07 PM #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kevinb_NJ View Post
I love admitting fault! While installing my lift spacers we disconnected the sway bar completely. I swear I started all of the bolts by hand and then used an impact gun only to zip them up before torquing correctly. However, I got distracted on one and let the gun go “too far”. Are these captive nuts that the lower mounts are attached to?

Am I screwed here?

For some reason the phone isn’t uploading pictures.
I decided to Tap mine. Those dumbazz tack welds are weak on that thread or nut they put up there in the frame. If the tack weld breaks or something gets stripped, just go ahead and cut the bolt out. I tried many other methods that usually work but none of them did work and I ended up having to cut the bolt anyhow.

Most tap sets do not have taps over 12mm or 1/2" in size and these are too small anyhow for that hole. I went with a 5/8" tap, you will have to buy the tap and match it with a bolt with the right tpi. You will also have to use a 1/2" drill to enlarge the hole in the frame so you can tap the new threads. I used a bolt I found at Lowes but if you ain't in a hurry get a cap head and a washer, or even a button head bolt. Get a 5/8" tap with the finest tpi you can find - you will have to go to a real industrial/machine supply vendor for the tap.

I used a Dremel tool to cut the spinning bolt off and, to enlarge the hole on the bushing bracket for the new 5/8" diameter. Tapping the new threads laying on your back aint fun but it wont take long.

It's a real fastener and wont enlarge the hole beyond what I did. A square carriage bolt will probably work fine but if it does slip or see a good amount of force it is going to start to chew away at the frame and then, tapping may no longer be an oiption.

Last edited by KC-4Runner; 10-08-2022 at 06:11 PM.
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