I love admitting fault! While installing my lift spacers we disconnected the sway bar completely. I swear I started all of the bolts by hand and then used an impact gun only to zip them up before torquing correctly. However, I got distracted on one and let the gun go “too far”. Are these captive nuts that the lower mounts are attached to?

Am I screwed here?

For some reason the phone isn’t uploading pictures.

Impact wrench is not your friend. Unless you are up to replacing entire assembly you need to drill and tap for larger bolt. Cheaper and less desirable option is Helicoil (not strong enough for suspension parts) but you can give it a go and can tap later if Heli fails. GL

Look into purchasing a Rivet nut tool, Nutsert tool, or Rivnut tool, etc. Many price points and kits available. Works perfectly and is strong enough for most purposes.

Yep, I agree and usually very careful using the gun. Just got lazy and chatting with a buddy. Thanks, I'll have to cut the old one off and then assess what to do next.

Good idea! Thanks

I've already learned my lesson with using an impact to tighten or spin on fasteners...

That lesson also included learning how to change out wheel studs.

so the bolt snapped off use a reverse drill bit make sure the drill is in reverse ,, the drill will cut into the broken stud and then should unscrew.

not rusted so should come out with no problems ..

I have done this method on exhaust manifold rusted off bolts a bit harder to do when its rusted ..

I loosen studs then if a lot of bolts/nuts I use gun to remove..

I never use air guns to install because of a too much torque..I prefer the electric guns and I set to a lower torque spec which is much more accurate than an air gun..

I just encountered the same situation. I stripped the threads. Were you able to resolve without replacing the part itself?

Which is stripped, the nut or the bolt? You might be able to just re-tap the nut for a larger bolt, or just replace the bolt if that is whats damaged.

It's the nut that's welded onto the LCA. Retapping didn't work. I got new bolts from Toyota yesterday to confirm and yeah it's definitely stripped threads on the bolt. It never fully tightens. I re-tapped using same size bolt threads and was too weak to hold a new bolt tightly.

Worst case I think the whole LCA is about $160 but the labor to install idk. Seeing what other options are out there before I go that route for a safe vehicle.

If it were me, I would retap for a size or 2 larger bolt and get a larger bolt of the same grade. Nothing to lose before going with the $140 LCA expense. Just a suggestion but may work for you.

Thank you very much I appreciate the suggestion! I am going to have to try that.

Im confused which bolt we are talking about? The sway bar? you mean where it mounts to the rear end? Or are you talking about the panhard bar?

Sway bar end bolts are 12mm - you could even put a 10mm bolt through the hole with enough room behind for a nut.


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I decided to Tap mine. Those dumbazz tack welds are weak on that thread or nut they put up there in the frame. If the tack weld breaks or something gets stripped, just go ahead and cut the bolt out. I tried many other methods that usually work but none of them did work and I ended up having to cut the bolt anyhow.

Most tap sets do not have taps over 12mm or 1/2" in size and these are too small anyhow for that hole. I went with a 5/8" tap, you will have to buy the tap and match it with a bolt with the right tpi. You will also have to use a 1/2" drill to enlarge the hole in the frame so you can tap the new threads. I used a bolt I found at Lowes but if you ain't in a hurry get a cap head and a washer, or even a button head bolt. Get a 5/8" tap with the finest tpi you can find - you will have to go to a real industrial/machine supply vendor for the tap.

I used a Dremel tool to cut the spinning bolt off and, to enlarge the hole on the bushing bracket for the new 5/8" diameter. Tapping the new threads laying on your back aint fun but it wont take long.

It's a real fastener and wont enlarge the hole beyond what I did. A square carriage bolt will probably work fine but if it does slip or see a good amount of force it is going to start to chew away at the frame and then, tapping may no longer be an oiption.