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Old 04-25-2019, 07:58 AM #46
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Mine seems to have a little bit of sag - just eyeballing it. I'm on stock Pro suspension w/RCI aluminum skids, Gobi, Shrockworks skids.
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Old 04-25-2019, 12:41 PM #47
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MeefZah View Post
You cannot. While there is some debate about it, I think (and apparently SDHQ also thinks) that the OEM tie down loops are adequate.
That's probably true if you use a bridle and snatch block (pulley) to equalize the pull on both tie-down loops. I made a bridle and added a second tie-down loop to the rear for this purpose. The bolt threads for the loop are already on the frame. Check this out for how to make a bridle and photos of the second recovery point on the rear. Since this was posted I had the exhaust tailpipe turned sideways behind the rear tire.
How To Make A Bridle

How to add the 2nd recovery point is on page 8 of this thread on recovery gear. There's lots of feedback from other people about recovery gear in this thread.
Recovery Gear Options
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Old 06-19-2019, 02:20 PM #48
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I painted the hook black. Tucked up tight against the fairlead it is all pretty unobtrusive and about as close to stock as it can appear.

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Old 06-19-2019, 07:18 PM #49
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I was just curious, how is the hawser style fairlead holding up to the wire rope?
I always thought roller fairleads with wire and hawser fairleads for synthetic?
Just curious if you have any wear issues or is that not an aluminum hawser?
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Old 06-20-2019, 01:27 AM #50
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Originally Posted by Direwolf82 View Post
I was just curious, how is the hawser style fairlead holding up to the wire rope?
I always thought roller fairleads with wire and hawser fairleads for synthetic?
Just curious if you have any wear issues or is that not an aluminum hawser?
It's cast iron (and weighs a ton). Holding up fine. Some light rust on the areas where the coating has been worn away by the steel cable but it looks just fine - the rust is inside the "mouth" and not obvious.

It's also the OEM Warn part that they supply with the steel cable.
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Old 06-20-2019, 08:38 AM #51
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Direwolf82 View Post
I was just curious, how is the hawser style fairlead holding up to the wire rope?
I always thought roller fairleads with wire and hawser fairleads for synthetic?
Just curious if you have any wear issues or is that not an aluminum hawser?
still plenty of advantages using roller fairleads with synthetic
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Old 06-20-2019, 09:52 AM #52
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Great write up thank you. I'm still stuck deciding between this and a lo pro. Does anyone know if you can use the fairlead of the winch as a recovery point (as in being pulled out by someone?). Kind of seems like abusing the winch but it's meant to pull heavy loads like that anyway so I'm not sure.
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Old 06-20-2019, 03:39 PM #53
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MeefZah View Post
It's cast iron (and weighs a ton). Holding up fine. Some light rust on the areas where the coating has been worn away by the steel cable but it looks just fine - the rust is inside the "mouth" and not obvious.

It's also the OEM Warn part that they supply with the steel cable.
Gotcha, I didn't know they made cast iron versions. Thought they were all aluminum.
Looks good.
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Old 06-20-2019, 05:59 PM #54
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Nice thanks for this, just commenting on the CS for CBI, I just bought a bunch of stuff from them and I had to call them because they were having website issues. The guy I spoke to was excellent to work with, in fact i'd say went above my expectations. Sorry you had a bad experience there, maybe it was a fluke or the particular person.
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Old 06-20-2019, 06:16 PM #55
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CITYRNR View Post
Great write up thank you. I'm still stuck deciding between this and a lo pro. Does anyone know if you can use the fairlead of the winch as a recovery point (as in being pulled out by someone?). Kind of seems like abusing the winch but it's meant to pull heavy loads like that anyway so I'm not sure.
Don't do that. A winch is not made for that. Only use the recovery loops on the frame.
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Old 05-27-2020, 11:06 PM #56
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Ah yea, I've got an older generation VR8000, you must have the newest gen.



Just did it last week.

bumper cut, do this first as it can be your practice run and will never been seen, so it doesn't matter how ugly it is.


For the facia, I just put it back on the bumper (after cutting the bumper) and traced from the inside of the bumper. Cut that out, and then filed it/trimmed a little more, and filed again. Again, these don't have to be perfect, because the fairlead will then cover the hole.


The annoying part is, if the dealer installed the license plate bracket, you now have two holes in the bumper. Hindsight, I would've bought a new Pro facia without LP holes, cut it for the winch, and kept my original one in the attic, in case I ever want to go back to no winch.

@TexasTJ

Older thread but I'm getting ready to install a winch on my new ORP. This thread was done using my SR5 (I'm the op).

I'm interested in how exactly you installed the fair lead on top of the Pro fascia instead of cutting around it. I just can't figure out how you bolted the fairlead on... since you gotta get behind the bumper to hold the nuts. Can you provide some details on the standoff, the hardware used, and how you bolted up the fairlead, please? Thanks!
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Old 05-28-2020, 09:34 AM #57
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Originally Posted by MeefZah View Post
@TexasTJ

Older thread but I'm getting ready to install a winch on my new ORP. This thread was done using my SR5 (I'm the op).

I'm interested in how exactly you installed the fair lead on top of the Pro fascia instead of cutting around it. I just can't figure out how you bolted the fairlead on... since you gotta get behind the bumper to hold the nuts. Can you provide some details on the standoff, the hardware used, and how you bolted up the fairlead, please? Thanks!
those 2 bolts go all the way thru and bolt to the front of the winch I believe. Thats what i've gathered from reading install instructions on a couple of the hidden winch mounts.
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Old 05-28-2020, 10:53 AM #58
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those 2 bolts go all the way thru and bolt to the front of the winch I believe. Thats what i've gathered from reading install instructions on a couple of the hidden winch mounts.
Yes they do, but there's no welded in nuts - you have to get a hand in there to put a wrench on them to keep them from spinning and I can't see how to do that if the bumper is on.

If you trim around the fairlead then the bumper cover goes on after the fairlead is installed so it's no problem. But if you mount the fairlead on top of the cover you'd have to install the fairlead last and it seems damn near impossible to get a hand behind there.
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Old 05-28-2020, 11:15 AM #59
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Quote:
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@TexasTJ

Older thread but I'm getting ready to install a winch on my new ORP. This thread was done using my SR5 (I'm the op).

I'm interested in how exactly you installed the fair lead on top of the Pro fascia instead of cutting around it. I just can't figure out how you bolted the fairlead on... since you gotta get behind the bumper to hold the nuts. Can you provide some details on the standoff, the hardware used, and how you bolted up the fairlead, please? Thanks!


The bolts go straight through to the holes in the fairlead mount of the HWM. I just laid down under the front of the 4R, and was able to reach the back of the fairlead mount to hold the nut in place. Sort of off to the side. Repeat on the opposite side. The skid may have been off at the time, but I just went out and tried it with it on, I was still able to easily reach the back of the fairlead nut. Used some grade 8 hardware, cut some PVC as spacers to keep the bumper cover from getting pinched in.
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Old 05-28-2020, 11:27 AM #60
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Thanks! I'll take a second look at the SR5 and maybe drop the skid to get an arm up in there.
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