Hello there, new here I just got a 4runner for a good deal but lights on cluster are on, rpm don't work speedometer don't work either as well as the temp gauge truck starts fine but abs, track control and all lights that appear on cluster are on if anyone can help me out to try to find the problem I will appreciate.


Tried the scanner but nothing came up, no codes no nothing.

Hi Dramg80,

First, welcome to the forum... you came to "The Right Place"! The reason you lost the Instrument cluster (not your fault), and ALL of the warning icons are on is because the 'Main body ECU Compu Network has lost it's power source; also why there's no communication!

First, look under the hood, open the main Relay/fusebox. Locate the ECU-B 10A fuse. Remove it and check to see if it's good. Most times it is good. If so, put it (securely) back in it's slot. Now, look at the top of the row and locate the 'Short-pin'; it looks like a fuse but it will not fit in a fuse slot!

Remove it, clean it's two probes and push it (securely) back in it's slot! Restart the vehicle. The Truck should start, then shut-off (after about three seconds), this is normal. Restart the truck and it should start normally! The instrument Cluster should now look normal! If it's still lit-up, post again, but you should be okay, let us know!

rig, cheers!

rigtec Liked @Old Red post!

Tanks I will try that and see if it works

Check OBD-ll port under the dash to make sure nothing is plugged in (such as Telemetrics Blue Tooth sender or Insurance data recorder. If anything there, unplug it.

I tried the check all fuses and did what you guys told me but still the same, and also door lock don't work anymore and I don't know why there is no communication on the obd2 port to scanner

Should I take it to the dealership to see if their scanner works

Hi Dramg80,

If it were my 4R, I'd check the fusebox once again! I know that because I had the EXACT same issue as you're having e.g., instrument cluster lit-up like Chinese New Years (ALL unrelated systems warnings), lost the Tach-o-meter and Speed-o-meter together, cluster back-lighting went out at night...etc!

You've lost the power source to the Main body ECU; which has command over 26 other ECU's on the limited, and 27 ECU's on the Trail (depending on the option pkg)!

Their scanner won't work either! And if you take it back to the dealership, plan to be w/o your truck (possibly) for more than a week while they discuss the symptoms, call their Regional "Specialist" Rep and have him/her fly out to assess the trouble and decide what to do about your truck, but will just start changing parts in HOPE of finding the problem; ask me how I know...(lol!)

Here's a wiring diagram to help you locate the power supplies to the ECU's:



I've marked the above diagram with a high-lighter pen in PINK; ECU-B 10A fuse, the ECU'S to-do list, and the "Short-pin" location!...you can ignore the door-locks circle marker; that was for another member last week, but the print represents your vehicle! You'll find the power loss, just dig in! Let us know how you make out, 'Best to you',

rig

I meant to mention:

I would get a test light. Pull the short-pin and check for power on the #1 side or power entrance. If you've got juice there, put it back in (securely)! Also, pull the ECU-B 10A fuse and check for power on the input side slot. Also, check for continuity; you can use an ohm meter, or if you don't have one, just energize one side of the fuse and check for 12V on the otherside... or just replace it!

rig

I will do that again, what I notice today is that when I first start the 4runner looks like they move then goes to zero again, tanks again I will respond back for the results

Yes Dramg80,

You can easily find out what the trouble is (with a multi-meter, or a test light). Ground the NEG (Blk) lead of the test light alligator clamp on the NEG battery terminal. Now touch the tabs on the 'Short-pin' and see that there's 12V there on both sides (Line & Load). If you have power there, do the same with the 'ECU-B 10A fuse'; GND the black lead on the NEG battery terminal, and touch the POS tip of the test light (or meter) on both tabs of that 10A ECU-B fuse; "that's got to be your trouble".

If there's NO POWER at both sides of the fuse (or Short-pin), then there's the problem source! If there IS POWER at both the fuse and short-pin, you have to check the ECU's ground source; located on the 'Driver-side Kick panel'! The ground for the ECU is labeled "F-1"...and serves GND-1 and GND-2 on the ECU... don't worry about knowing what to do with that, I'll help you if it comes to that, but you hardly EVER lose a ground like that, most likely the power supply! Let us know!

rig, cheers!

It's all good now, I don't know how but one morning everything starter to work, Thanks for all the advices
I guess it has something to do with the fuse connection looks like I got wet , previous owner maybe