Originally Posted by WanderlostOverland

And, the original Post said lube and check torque. May have had to take off the skid plate, grab his torque wrench (that he paid for himself), look up the torque specs, then had to reinstall the skid plate.

It costs $$$ to have someone else do it for ya.

Originally Posted by John in NC

My prior post above-

Sorry I've offended some of you paying for work to be done on my car, maybe OVERpaying.
Sometimes this particular mechanic charges me less than what I think something should be, and sometimes he throws in some extras and doesn't charge. So if I got ripped a bit lubing the 6 zerks, I won't lose sleep.
I had the 4runner in getting some maintenance done/ synthetic oil change, and I mentioned the clunk and possible fix, and he went into some detail on what he would do, test drove it, and explained the process afterwards so I was satisfied it was done RIGHT, which from the threads on the subject is a win in and of itself. My clunk was gone. I'll pay a little more for the peace of mind that a job is done right.

Not everyone has/ wants a grease gun and tubes of grease, and not everyone gets a smokin deal every trip to the mechanics shop.

This mechanic has worked on 6 vehicles for me/ my wife and knows his stuff and takes pride in his work, there's value in that.
Sometimes I say to myself, "Whoa that was cheap!", other times I say to myself, "ouch that was a bit steep"... that's the way it goes, but our vehicles are well maintained so again, there's value in that for us and for future owners of our vehicles.

Originally Posted by redneckj

I understand how you must think that this is a rip off. It does seem a little high. I assume you have never worked at a dealership or been a flat rate tech before. When the job arrives at the dealership, the tech has to walk (sometimes far) and get the car. Then he has to rack the car. He then can perform said task using the grease gun that he bought himself using the tools that he paid for himself. After that he can can unrack the car, park the car and walk the paperwork and keys up to his service writer. The tech probably only would be able to flag .5 for that job. He would be lucky to be able to perform the above task in a 1/2 hour with all the running around.

Sometimes things are not as they appear. Just my 2 cents.

Originally Posted by Nick B

My dealer charges 20 bucks extra if you want the prop shaft greased .

Originally Posted by 1000MPH

I gotta admit it’s one of my least favorite things.
It takes me at least a 1/2 hr of laying on my back and that makes me nauseous in my old age.
Most of that time is cleaning up the mess I make.
I’ve since learned (finally) how to properly bleed air out of my grease gun so hopefully it’ll go faster next time.
All said, it’s still freaking worth it to know it’s been done correctly.

Originally Posted by 1jzgte

hows the 5w-30 treating your 21 mpgs? any difference?

Originally Posted by 2112 R

Apologies if this was already linked: HOW-TO: grease your drive shaft

That post has pics etc.

This single grease gun attachment is the real winner.
Amazon.com: LockNLube Grease Gun Coupler locks onto Zerk fittings. Grease goes in, not on the machine. World's best-selling original locking grease coupler. Rated 10,000 PSI. Long-lasting rebuildable tool.: Home Improvement

Makes the job take 5 minutes.

Originally Posted by ElectroBoy

One problem that I have with my two grease guns is that they always leak after months of storage so I wrap sheets of paper towel or rags around them and enclose them in multiple plastic bags.

Originally Posted by aemgh18e

https://www.princessauto.com/en/shel...t/PA0008540627

Is the shell S3 grease good for lube the propeller shaft?
25K kilometers, haven't done any lube.