I fly drones for a living. I need to constantly charge the batteries and on large jobs I utilize a generator (if I need to continuously charge 3+ batteries). But many days, I just need to charge one or two batteries as I drive between jobs. I also need to have my RAM Mounted laptop stay charged all day.

Previous vehicle was a Yukon and I simply ran some 8ga. jumper cables direct from the battery through the firewall to the cargo area for a 1000W inverter. I would like to duplicate that setup as well as incorporate a 400W inverter mounted for laptop use. The battery charger I use takes 100-240V AC for input and output is 17.5V/13.5A DC. The laptop power block input is 100-240V ~1.5A and output is 20V ~6.75A.

Additionally, I would like to build my own sPod type setup (b/c who can afford $500?) to allow for control of the inverters, CB, and a light bar or two.

I am not opposed to going with a different battery setup than stock as may be needed. (FWIW, I typically leave the vehicle running all day).

Here's where my knowledge lacks, do I need a deep cycle Group 31? Do I need a dual battery setup? When running cable to the rear, do I need to bring a negative cable? Or can I simply run from inverter negative to the frame? Is 8ga. overkill for this? What are some solutions for future expansion? Am I an idiot for thinking I can build an sPod using this how-to?

Hi itsjaredj,

I've done a considerable bit of electrical mods on my 4Runner! First it was a set of "PIAA fogs". Then my "HUGE" subwoofer project,with dual 1200W (True RMS) amps, 4 fifteen inch drivers, then the "BIG THREE" cable size increase...etc! ...got bass?

Now in my case, I need an electrical system that is mostly used when the truck is in operation because I'm driving when my amenities are being used. So I needed a larger Alternator (double the output of the stock unit), which was 130A full output, so mine is now 270A!

But for a camper, running electrical loads when the vehicle is off, They need to have an electrical system that can run off of one "High capacity/Deep-cycle" battery for running the frig, the TV, stereo, lighting, and one battery for starting the truck to drive home... you follow(?)!

You sound like you'd need a Deep-cycle, High capacity (AGM) battery to run your extras with the truck off! There are many guys here that are using dual battery set-ups, and plenty of write-ups in our library to read up on the subject! I can leave you with some basic electrical write-ups that are still relevant even if you do add another battery to your truck: "See Below":

4Runner alternator upgrade (gen 5)

The BIG three; how it works

Getting more current from your stock alternator at idle

Switches, relays, wires... it's all Greek to me!

That should keep you busy for a while, lol! OH... and YES, you only need One HOT/POSITIVE cable to feed the Inverter in the rear, and use the same size cable to ground it in the rear cargo area; size is based on the total amount of amperage the Inverter can draw!

Figure on a 15' length of wire so make sure you add to the Gauge to compensate for the extra resistance due to length! And don't forget to use an In-line fuse no more than 6 to 8 inches from the battery to prevent any damage to the wire or equipment! 'Best to you',

rig

I was going to say larger-rated alternator as well. As well as second battery. That was all popular back in my CB days 20 or so years ago.

Are there 12VDC options for any of your now-AC-powered devices? Using an inverter is inefficient compared to raw 12VDC off the battery. That being said, a true sine wave inverter should (as I understand it) be both more efficient and have cleaner power than modified sine wave (typical consumer-grade inverter).

Another option that my old PD had done was programming the idle speed to be higher, say just 200RPM or so more. This helps keep the alternator going more at idle.

8ga is undersized for 1000W, but 1000W sounds overkill for your charging needs

Both your laptop and your drone batteries should be able to be charged via DC, you shouldn't need a an inverter

If you are only charging while the vehicle us running then battery size doesnt matter - unless you really are using large wattage for long periods that would overload the alternator in that case you'll need to do some math to figure out the storage you need.

P=VI and V=IR is 90% of what you need to know