03-17-2019, 09:38 PM
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#1
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Inner Tie Rod Replacement
Instructions on How to Remove/Install an Inner Tie Rod on a 5th gen 4runner
1. Remove wheel
2. Loosen the jam nut on the outer tie rod end
3. Remove the cotter pin and castle nut
4. Separate the outer tie rod end from the steering knuckle
5. Back off and remove the outer tie rod end (Counting how many turns for reinstallation later)
6. Remove the clamps and boot for the inner tie rod
7. Turn your steering wheel all the way out to make the inner tie rod end more accessible
8. Using an adjustable plumbing wrench loosen and remove the inner tie rod (May require additional leverage)
9. Install the new inner tie rod using blue loctite on threads (Torque to factory spec)
10. Reinstall the tie rod boot using a zip tie to secure the boot to the steering rack and the original clamp for the outer portion
11. Reinstall the jam nut
12. Reinstall the outer tie rod end (Counting the turns you documented in step 5)
13. Reinstall the outer tie rod end castle nut (Torque to factory spec)
14. Install a NEW cotter pin on the castle nut
15. Tighten the outer tie rod end jam nut
My Original Post Below
Question: So I need to replace my driver side inner tie rod because of some play. Already ordered the OEM part but need to know what size wrench I need to use for the power steering rack to remove and reinstall the inner tie rod. I know you can use an adjustable pipe wrench for the inner tie rod end but you need a wrench on the steering rack side to prevent the torque being transmitted to the rack. Hoping folks on here have done it before. Any ideas?
Answer: You can't use a 1-1/16" wrench on the steering rack side. It's too small. Not sure what size you can use I just torqued the inner tie rod end on and off. No issues.
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'12 Silver 4Runner SR5: 14+ facelift, CBI front, CBI Rear, Warn EVO 10-S, ARB Snorkel, Baja Designs 30" S8, Squadron Sports, S2 Rack Lights, King 2.5 Suspension, OME 899, 33" Cooper ST Maxx, Full CBI Skids, Metaltech Sliders, GFC Tent, ARB Awning
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Last edited by Xtremluck; 05-03-2019 at 09:29 AM.
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03-18-2019, 01:57 AM
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#2
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Senior Member
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Xtremluck
So I need to replace my driver side inner tie rod because of some play. Already ordered the OEM part but need to know what size wrench I need to use for the power steering rack to remove and reinstall the inner tie rod. I know you can use an adjustable pipe wrench for the inner tie rod end but you need a wrench on the steering rack side to prevent the torque being transmitted to the rack. Hoping folks on here have done it before. Any ideas?
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Hi Xtremluck,
...it should be the same size as the original tie-rod. Upon removal of the old tie-rod, just be sure to count/mark the number of turns, write it down, and match the number of turns installing the new part! 'Best to you',
rig
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03-18-2019, 07:05 AM
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#3
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Autozone has a loan a tool with all the sizes and you can use a torque wrench on.
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03-18-2019, 09:27 AM
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#4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rigtec
Hi Xtremluck,
...it should be the same size as the original tie-rod. Upon removal of the old tie-rod, just be sure to count/mark the number of turns, write it down, and match the number of turns installing the new part! 'Best to you',
rig
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What you mentioned is the outer tie rod end. Will be following that procedure of course but am looking for information on the inner tie rod.
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'12 Silver 4Runner SR5: 14+ facelift, CBI front, CBI Rear, Warn EVO 10-S, ARB Snorkel, Baja Designs 30" S8, Squadron Sports, S2 Rack Lights, King 2.5 Suspension, OME 899, 33" Cooper ST Maxx, Full CBI Skids, Metaltech Sliders, GFC Tent, ARB Awning
Xtremluck's 2012 SR5 Build Thread
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03-18-2019, 09:42 AM
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#5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gt4r
Autozone has a loan a tool with all the sizes and you can use a torque wrench on.
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Yup, I also know that harbor freight makes tools as well for easy removal and installation. However, they only work on the inner tie rod itself. I need to know what size wrench to use to counteract the torque on the steering rack side.
You can see what I mean in this video for a Toyota Tacoma inner tie rod replacement:
Toyota Tacoma Inner Tie Rod Replacement
Looks like he uses an 1 1/16" wrench to do it so I'm going to give that a shot.
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'12 Silver 4Runner SR5: 14+ facelift, CBI front, CBI Rear, Warn EVO 10-S, ARB Snorkel, Baja Designs 30" S8, Squadron Sports, S2 Rack Lights, King 2.5 Suspension, OME 899, 33" Cooper ST Maxx, Full CBI Skids, Metaltech Sliders, GFC Tent, ARB Awning
Xtremluck's 2012 SR5 Build Thread
Last edited by Xtremluck; 03-18-2019 at 09:47 AM.
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03-18-2019, 11:43 AM
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#6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Xtremluck
Yup, I also know that harbor freight makes tools as well for easy removal and installation. However, they only work on the inner tie rod itself. I need to know what size wrench to use to counteract the torque on the steering rack side.
You can see what I mean in this video for a Toyota Tacoma inner tie rod replacement:
Toyota Tacoma Inner Tie Rod Replacement
Looks like he uses an 1 1/16" wrench to do it so I'm going to give that a shot.
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Yep, was going to link you to that video. I would think a 27 mm would work, quite possibly.
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03-18-2019, 11:16 PM
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#7
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Senior Member
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Xtremluck
What you mentioned is the outer tie rod end. Will be following that procedure of course but am looking for information on the inner tie rod.
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Hi Xtremluck... Great user name; wish I could claim the same, Lol!
The new Inner Tie-rod should be the same as the factory original (thread, diameter and length)! Also, why change the One tie-rod end when ALL 4 should have the exact same proportional mileage/wear on them; I only ask this because you have to align the front end after any component replacement? 'Best',
rig, cheers!
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03-19-2019, 08:48 AM
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#8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rigtec
Hi Xtremluck... Great user name; wish I could claim the same, Lol!
The new Inner Tie-rod should be the same as the factory original (thread, diameter and length)! Also, why change the One tie-rod end when ALL 4 should have the exact same proportional mileage/wear on them; I only ask this because you have to align the front end after any component replacement? 'Best',
rig, cheers!
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That's a fair question. I've already replaced both outer tie rod ends but only replacing the driver side inner because its the only one having symptoms of failure. I could replace both but Im trying to reduce throwing endless amounts of money into this thing and getting more life out of OEM components. At this point I think I literally have replaced most of the OEM front suspension :P
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'12 Silver 4Runner SR5: 14+ facelift, CBI front, CBI Rear, Warn EVO 10-S, ARB Snorkel, Baja Designs 30" S8, Squadron Sports, S2 Rack Lights, King 2.5 Suspension, OME 899, 33" Cooper ST Maxx, Full CBI Skids, Metaltech Sliders, GFC Tent, ARB Awning
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03-19-2019, 08:49 AM
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#9
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Ill be posting a step by step how to on this once I tackle the job this weekend. I have a feeling those who wheel their rigs will need to do this eventually.
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'12 Silver 4Runner SR5: 14+ facelift, CBI front, CBI Rear, Warn EVO 10-S, ARB Snorkel, Baja Designs 30" S8, Squadron Sports, S2 Rack Lights, King 2.5 Suspension, OME 899, 33" Cooper ST Maxx, Full CBI Skids, Metaltech Sliders, GFC Tent, ARB Awning
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03-19-2019, 03:42 PM
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#10
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You dont need another wrench. The 4runner tie rod is not the same as the one in your vid. I used this fj cruise video YouTube as a guide when I replaced my inner tie rod. The only difference is I didnt find a locking washer on the original inner tie rod.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Xtremluck
Yup, I also know that harbor freight makes tools as well for easy removal and installation. However, they only work on the inner tie rod itself. I need to know what size wrench to use to counteract the torque on the steering rack side.
You can see what I mean in this video for a Toyota Tacoma inner tie rod replacement:
Toyota Tacoma Inner Tie Rod Replacement
Looks like he uses an 1 1/16" wrench to do it so I'm going to give that a shot.
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04-20-2019, 10:21 AM
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#11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gt4r
You dont need another wrench. The 4runner tie rod is not the same as the one in your vid. I used this fj cruise video YouTube as a guide when I replaced my inner tie rod. The only difference is I didnt find a locking washer on the original inner tie rod.
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Thanks man I just received a new OEM inner tie rod. To confirm our inner tie rods do not have a locking washer? Most inner tie rods do but the factory manual seems to indicate we don’t. I was also surprised my replacement didn’t come with one.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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'12 Silver 4Runner SR5: 14+ facelift, CBI front, CBI Rear, Warn EVO 10-S, ARB Snorkel, Baja Designs 30" S8, Squadron Sports, S2 Rack Lights, King 2.5 Suspension, OME 899, 33" Cooper ST Maxx, Full CBI Skids, Metaltech Sliders, GFC Tent, ARB Awning
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04-20-2019, 01:33 PM
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#12
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Correct. I have a 2014 and it didnt have a locking washer. I used red loctite and torqued to spec.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Xtremluck
Thanks man I just received a new OEM inner tie rod. To confirm our inner tie rods do not have a locking washer? Most inner tie rods do but the factory manual seems to indicate we don’t. I was also surprised my replacement didn’t come with one.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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05-03-2019, 09:26 AM
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#13
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Ok friends I completed this job last night and it eliminated my steering knock!! Edited my first post with step by step instructions on how to do this. Enjoy.
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'12 Silver 4Runner SR5: 14+ facelift, CBI front, CBI Rear, Warn EVO 10-S, ARB Snorkel, Baja Designs 30" S8, Squadron Sports, S2 Rack Lights, King 2.5 Suspension, OME 899, 33" Cooper ST Maxx, Full CBI Skids, Metaltech Sliders, GFC Tent, ARB Awning
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05-03-2019, 10:11 AM
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#14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Xtremluck
Ok friends I completed this job last night and it eliminated my steering knock!! Edited my first post with step by step instructions on how to do this. Enjoy.
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Nice writeup. thanks for sharing- and I'm glad it got rid of your knock
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05-03-2019, 10:48 AM
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#15
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Booked marked for the potential future trail repair. I hope to never have to perform this on the trail, but I already have the spare parts and a now a quick tutorial. It was so much easier in the SAS days with Marlinks and such. Damn IFS
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