I didn't realize that 50w make the lights brighter. I thought that having a bigger ballast would mean it would last longer than the 35w.

Well see how it comes out when I get them. Hopefully I dont get highbeamed for my lights being too bright.

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The guy from the store told me these bulbs wouldn't work with drl mode. But I never use it anyway so I dont mind.

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man, hustlin $1000 headlights every day.

OP: Yeah 50W will be slightly brighter and can change the temp of the bulb vs a 35W ballast. Just make sure to aim your headlights after you put the HIDs in.

Standard aim procedure off the top of my head is make sure you are on level ground and a wall. Pull upto wall 2 ft away. Mark center of your physical headlights on the wall with tape. Reverse 25ft. aim headlights 2 inches below your tape marks.

Wont get flashed.

Anyone running the Morimotos on a pre facelift early 5th gen? 2012 and looking for more light on low beams but have a more reflector set up than the newer 4Rs. Any experience?
Thanks
X

From my research, 4300K Phillips HID bulbs produce the most useable light to the human eye, 5000K will be whiter/bluer light but still a very good option.

I bought these https://headlightrevolution.com/2014...ed-headlights/

Watch their YouTube videos on the comparisons they've done. I'm quite happy with mine and they work as advertised.

I updated the low beams and high beams, haven't done fogs yet. But here is what I am running:

Low Beams: Morimoto 2.0 Stroke H11 LED's. Really like these so far. No drilling in the dust cap, all fits inside the light housing. Output is better than stock, nice crisp color. Bought from The Retrofit Source.

High Beams: DDM Saber 9005 50W LED's. These capture the power of the sun, the moon and the remainder of the galaxy and funnel it through the bulb...they are retina burning bright. Absolutely awesome light upgrade. Everyone who rides with me at night that has the opportunity to see the high beams thinks that I have a light bar. I disabled my daytime running high beams because 1) I think they look horrible, I really wanted just the amber running lights 2) these lights are way too bright to run full time, even during the day. Bought off Amazon.

Fog Lights: Will be upgrading to Baja Designs Squadron Pros...one of these days


Just my $.02, best of luck deciding!

I'm trying out 'Katana' H11 LED found on Amazon; they're reportedly quite similar to a popular v.4 option at a lower price point. So far so good I like them - bright with a clean cut-off. They do also fit behind the dust cover w/o drilling so that is nice.

I installed the Morimoto lights about a month or two ago and they came out nice. They are not by any means a light bar replacement, but it's an upgrade to the stock lights.

The HID headlights take a minute or two until they get to their full brightness but once they are warmed up they are real nice. The LEDs are instant and awesome.

My only concern right now is that the lights are hooked up directly to the battery. So I can turn them on at any time, even if the truck if off. And the truck no longer gives me a warning sound that my lights are on after I turn off the car and open my door.

Does anyone know how I can properly wire the lighting so that the warning comes on again?

They do not flicker.

What is the upside of the Morimoto's over any of the others like the Hikari? Reviews on Amazon don't indicate much, and overall reviews seem not so great. I want LEDs as to keep the dust cover intact. The Hikari's seem decent, but I can't seem to get them to align properly of having the cable pointing to 6 o'clock, with the LEDs facing 3 and 9. Any tips and comments appreciated.

I just installed Opt-7 6000k led kit for my low beams. They are a nice crisp light. Big difference over stock. Next up..... replacing the fog bulbs to match.


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Why not try the “H11 to H9 & 9005 to 9011” bulb conversion?
It’s inexpensive and it works well. Lots of folks have done it. And you won’t get flashed.
Here’s the thread where the photos are posted. Post 122 & 123.

How To: Headlight Bulb Conversion (H11 to H9 & 9005 to 9011)

This is the latest thread I'm seeing regarding headlight upgrades. I have a 2017 T4R here.

I've put different bulbs (Sylvannia SilverStars, 2Stroke LED bulbs, Phillips XTR HIDs) in my stock headlights before finally retrofitting projectors.
As of Feb 2020, the best and simplest retrofit I could find browsing & after talking with Caesar from Lightwerkz was the new Morimoto Bi-LED M LED 2.0. I was planning to retrofit some Lexus IS/GS350 projectors with DS2 HID kit but turns out these new LED projectors are brighter and wider than a D2S with 50w ballast. Output wise, lux is 471 a bulb? but I think the practical measured units for actual use are Candela at 73,000 for low beams.

Anyways, I'll let the pictures speak for themselves.
Baseline wall:


Stock halogen headlights with stock bulbs:


Stock headlights with HID kit:
Morimoto HID H11 kit: 35W Ballast // Upgraded Phillips XTR HID 4300k bulbs
(I realized upgrading bulbs and ballast output was a waste of $$ at this point after plateauing my output. Real increase needed to change out projectors)


Retrofit projectors: (Morimoto Bi-LED MLED 2.0)


I gotta say that it was a PITA and took me a full day to complete with experience. That permaseal Toyota uses to seal headlights is no joke.

Couple links I could find regarding them.
YouTube
YouTube



Pic is right before I retrofitted the MLED 2.0 projectors. Running HID system in the stock headlights. Never had any blinding people problems as I made sure to aim my pattern lower than usual.


Overall, I still need to do more driving with the MLED 2.0 projectors but happy with the output and width. The cutoff is so clean that I do miss the little upward glare from the stock projector for long drives

This is the exact thing I am considering to do right now. I ordered a new set of TYC headlights and plan on trying the retrofit myself. I have a few questions for you if you don't mind answering.

1.) Did you use any premade brackets to mount the M-LED 2.0 projectors to the headlights? I was looking at using these since it appears the mounting holes are the same as the Mled1.0

2014+ 4Runner MLED Brackets - Retrofit Brackets - Components

2.) What other wiring adapters did you need?

3.) Did you use a shroud to cover the sides of the projector and which one did you use?

4.) Did you use anything for the factory high beams?

I have a set of Lexus IS projectors I wanted to use and the only advantage I can see with them is the bulbs can be changed without taking the entire headlight apart again. If I was to use the IS projectors I cannot find any premade retrofit mounting brackets like the above.

The thing that makes me hesitate to go with the mled2.0 is the long term reliability is unknown. I watched a year down video of them and they appear to be a nice upgrade over the 1.0 and we'll made.