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Old 04-08-2019, 09:48 PM #16
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10% rear and no issues with seeing night time
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Old 04-08-2019, 10:03 PM #17
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Here’s 20% on the front. Factory rear.
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Old 04-09-2019, 12:27 AM #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zw470 View Post
Are you guys sure the factory rear windows are 20%? Mine don't look anywhere near that dark


It metered out at like 23-24%


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Old 04-09-2019, 09:24 AM #19
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I did 20% front and 35% on the rear. It all ended up matching. Also did 70% windshield for UV protection and to keep the heat out on sunny days.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Knuckledragger View Post
I put 20% on my front two windows to match the factory rear 20%. It still isn’t dark enough for me. On sunny days, especially in the winter when the sun is low, you can see everything in my vehicle. I also don’t like the fact that the factory tint has a purple hue to it compared to the aftermarket tint with a green hue. It drives me crazy. When I get the time I’m going to run up to my tint guy to darken the rears.

Not sure what I’m going to do yet. I’m leaning towards 35% over 20% on the rears.

50% over 20% = 10%
35% over 20% = 7%
20% over 20% = 4%
5% over 20% = 1%
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Old 04-09-2019, 10:52 AM #20
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Original poster here. So i went with 20% all around, but my decision was easier in that the pro tint shop i used had 20% as the lowest tint for 3M Crystalline, which is what i went with. They had 4 "brands/levels" with Crystalline being the 2nd to the most expensive. I picked it for heat rejection, and even did the windshield with 70%, although learned immediately that heat rejection is a load of marketing crap. Might make a separate post on this entirely.

Anyway, 20% over factory is NOT too dark on the rears, I can see fine at night. I would have even gone darker, so 18% is indeed a sweet spot, and I can even see 10% doable! 20% in the FRONT is perfect, albeit illegal where i am. But tint decisions are not just willy nilly, there is a safety aspect....you don't want to be driving in your suburban neighborhood and not be able to see around you. I also took the guy's advice as he has been tinting for 30 years: if you go too dark in the back (limo) it feels you are driving around in a closet. All that said, I guess I can't complain.

Last point is it was definitely not cheap. I took it to the best reviewed Tint shop in Phoenix and indeed they were great but it came to $1050 (3M Crystalline) for those pricing out. (4/19) including front windshield.

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Old 04-09-2019, 11:04 AM #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zw470 View Post
Are you guys sure the factory rear windows are 20%? Mine don't look anywhere near that dark
I believe they are 30%
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Old 04-09-2019, 11:13 AM #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 97BlackAckCL View Post
I believe they are 30%
I would buy that. Here's a picture of my Charger. Not a chance my factory 4Runner windows are only 2% lighter than this.
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Old 04-09-2019, 11:27 AM #23
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Legal limit for front sides here is 35%, I've always done the rear to match so it's easier to see out of at night, and the rear sides 20%.

Nothing worse than having to roll down windows to see where you're backing into, at least the rear window does roll down on these things, lol.
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Old 04-09-2019, 11:28 AM #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 97BlackAckCL View Post
I believe they are 30%
Agreed. Factory is definitely not 20.

I thought it was 35 but I'm splitting hairs. I don't think I'd be able to tell the difference between 30 and 35 if they were not side by side.
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Old 04-09-2019, 11:44 AM #25
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the rear of a 4runner will measure out about 25% FVLT (final visible light transmission). Most people that install a 20% tint (not 15% or 18%) get the best results with matching the front 2 windows to the rear factory tint. IF, the 4runner had all clear glass, IF it did, and you installed the same film all the way around , except the windshield, the front 2 windows would appear to look lighter. This is do to the windshield letting in light into the front part of the 4runner. I explain it to a customer this way, "The further you go back in a cave, the darker it becomes."

A 25%-30% film matches the rear really well. It is easier to tell a true match by looking from inside to the outside if the tint really matches. If you would like your windows darker, I might suggest a 18%-15% on the 2 fronts and adding a 45% ( give or take a little on the percentage) to the rear of the 4runner. It will match really well front to rear.

Good luck to all.
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Old 04-09-2019, 11:44 AM #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rob_dixon View Post
Original poster here. So i went with 20% all around, but my decision was easier in that the pro tint shop i used had 20% as the lowest tint for 3M Crystalline, which is what i went with. They had 4 "brands/levels" with Crystalline being the 2nd to the most expensive. I picked it for heat rejection, and even did the windshield with 70%, although learned immediately that heat rejection is a load of marketing crap. Might make a separate post on this entirely.

Anyway, 20% over factory is NOT too dark on the rears, I can see fine at night. I would have even gone darker, so 18% is indeed a sweet spot, and I can even see 10% doable! 20% in the FRONT is perfect, albeit illegal where i am. But tint decisions are not just willy nilly, there is a safety aspect....you don't want to be driving in your suburban neighborhood and not be able to see around you. I also took the guy's advice as he has been tinting for 30 years: if you go too dark in the back (limo) it feels you are driving around in a closet. All that said, I guess I can't complain.

Last point is it was definitely not cheap. I took it to the best reviewed Tint shop in Phoenix and indeed they were great but it came to $1050 (3M Crystalline) for those pricing out. (4/19) including front windshield.
please either post here or separately regarding the marketing crap of the heat rejection... im about to get my windows tinted and would love to hear your thoughts on the topic
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Old 04-09-2019, 02:03 PM #27
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please either post here or separately regarding the marketing crap of the heat rejection... im about to get my windows tinted and would love to hear your thoughts on the topic
Sure man.

Save your money. I am going to call this "The big Tint lie"

This has to do with science I am very curious about. I get it. I do. But here is the marketing: "Light tint rejects 60% of solar energy and up to 97% of heat-producing infrared rays for the ultimate in comfort." "Reject heat" cooler car, etc.

In the installer, they have an infrared light behind the various tints. You press the button and feel the heat (or lack of) behind the tint. 100% convincing. This is REAL - your hand does not lie.

But in function, and in the science behind how heat actually builds up in a vehicle, it is 100% BS.

After tint, my truck is seemingly not 1 degree cooler than prior to tint. I am not one to fall for placebo affect easily. So I did a search and found some guy ran an actual experiment which proved my suspicions in a Tesla.

Experiment: 3M Crystalline Tint Makes ZERO Difference in Cabin Temp | Tesla

So basically I just spent just over $1K to have darker windows which I could have done for $350. I was expecting a significant different in temperatures. THAT WAS THE WHOLE POINT of paying premium.

If anyone can find another real world dispute of this (or explain) I'd love to see it. And before you say TIME may be a factor, I am talking literally minutes here in Phoenix before its intolerable, same as before - and it was only 82-85 yesterday. AND keep in mind compared to many vehicles our windshield angle to the sun is much LESS horizontal than most.

I'd love to see the industry have real world measurements in addition to all current stats: A chart of Degrees raised over time (e.g. 30 minutes) on a standard industry platform. But that might mean we see this "alleged" BS, so don't expect that. But I am just 1 guy.
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Old 04-09-2019, 02:48 PM #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rob_dixon View Post
Sure man.

Save your money. I am going to call this "The big Tint lie"

This has to do with science I am very curious about. I get it. I do. But here is the marketing: "Light tint rejects 60% of solar energy and up to 97% of heat-producing infrared rays for the ultimate in comfort." "Reject heat" cooler car, etc.

In the installer, they have an infrared light behind the various tints. You press the button and feel the heat (or lack of) behind the tint. 100% convincing. This is REAL - your hand does not lie.

But in function, and in the science behind how heat actually builds up in a vehicle, it is 100% BS.

After tint, my truck is seemingly not 1 degree cooler than prior to tint. I am not one to fall for placebo affect easily. So I did a search and found some guy ran an actual experiment which proved my suspicions in a Tesla.

Experiment: 3M Crystalline Tint Makes ZERO Difference in Cabin Temp | Tesla

So basically I just spent just over $1K to have darker windows which I could have done for $350. I was expecting a significant different in temperatures. THAT WAS THE WHOLE POINT of paying premium.

If anyone can find another real world dispute of this (or explain) I'd love to see it. And before you say TIME may be a factor, I am talking literally minutes here in Phoenix before its intolerable, same as before - and it was only 82-85 yesterday. AND keep in mind compared to many vehicles our windshield angle to the sun is much LESS horizontal than most.

I'd love to see the industry have real world measurements in addition to all current stats: A chart of Degrees raised over time (e.g. 30 minutes) on a standard industry platform. But that might mean we see this "alleged" BS, so don't expect that. But I am just 1 guy.
Thanks for your input. I read the link you posted and while the initial experiment was decently thought out, there were a couple things missing.

One- the windshield was not tinted which as we all know, permits the most amount of light and heat into the car (depending on angle of the sun).

Two- the model 3 already has IR rejection built into their side windows so tinting those windows wouldn't really help too much with that specific car.

Three- there is a problem with the assumption of the experiment to begin with: that tinted car should be cooler after x # of time. While that assumption might be true for a short period of time, it isnt going to be true for an indefinite period of time. For example, you bring out both cars (tinted and untinted) and let them sit in the sun for 5 or 10 minutes. The tinted car should in fact be a bit cooler inside than the untinted one (assumed no IR rejection built in the glass already). However, if you let both cars sit in the sun all day, eventually both cars will be the same temperature inside. The takeaway is that perhaps the untinted car will take lets say an 60 minutes to get to maximum cabin temperature, the tinted car might take 75 minutes to get max temp.

so all in all, i don't think you actually wasted your money. what do you guys think?
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Old 04-09-2019, 03:00 PM #29
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I went to get my windows tinted for
My 5th gen 4Runner but the guy wasn’t able To do it, he said that the dealer tint had 2 layers wich made it impossible
To Do the ceramic tinting. He tried several time But it wouldn’t stay. Any suggestions .


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Old 04-09-2019, 03:08 PM #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mashalatheballa View Post
Thanks for your input. I read the link you posted and while the initial experiment was decently thought out, there were a couple things missing.

One- the windshield was not tinted which as we all know, permits the most amount of light and heat into the car (depending on angle of the sun).

Two- the model 3 already has IR rejection built into their side windows so tinting those windows wouldn't really help too much with that specific car.

Three- there is a problem with the assumption of the experiment to begin with: that tinted car should be cooler after x # of time. While that assumption might be true for a short period of time, it isnt going to be true for an indefinite period of time. For example, you bring out both cars (tinted and untinted) and let them sit in the sun for 5 or 10 minutes. The tinted car should in fact be a bit cooler inside than the untinted one (assumed no IR rejection built in the glass already). However, if you let both cars sit in the sun all day, eventually both cars will be the same temperature inside. The takeaway is that perhaps the untinted car will take lets say an 60 minutes to get to maximum cabin temperature, the tinted car might take 75 minutes to get max temp.

so all in all, i don't think you actually wasted your money. what do you guys think?

I too dont think its wasted money. I too have the 3m premium film and noticed an immediate difference. The only thing is I was not expecting the car to be cooler parked in the sun, rather the heat transmitted though the windows has been drastically reduced when in the car. Basically, I dont get as hot sitting in my car when its sunny. It was a big difference for me especially in the Summer. I dont have to crank the AC as hard to keep the car cool. So I think it was worth it. But seriously, Phoenix is like the surface of the sun hot so not much will help. My .02.

In Phoenix, well maybe one of these will help.

Lanmodo Portable Auto Car Umbrella (I'm not serious )

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