04-08-2019, 09:48 PM
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#16
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Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Honolulu
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10% rear and no issues with seeing night time
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04-08-2019, 10:03 PM
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#17
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Join Date: Jul 2018
Location: Minnesota
Age: 37
Posts: 39
Real Name: Ryan
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Here’s 20% on the front. Factory rear.
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2014 T4R SR5P. Level 8 MK6 -10 offset wheels. 265/70/17 BF Goodrich KO2's. Bilstein 5100's set at 1.75” up front + cornfed 1” rear spacer. AJT Key Fob. 20% window tint. AVS bug/ rock deflector. Gobi stealth rack. Pedal Commander.
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04-09-2019, 12:27 AM
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#18
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Join Date: Dec 2018
Posts: 52
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zw470
Are you guys sure the factory rear windows are 20%? Mine don't look anywhere near that dark
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It metered out at like 23-24%
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04-09-2019, 09:24 AM
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#19
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Join Date: May 2018
Location: SoCal
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I did 20% front and 35% on the rear. It all ended up matching. Also did 70% windshield for UV protection and to keep the heat out on sunny days.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Knuckledragger
I put 20% on my front two windows to match the factory rear 20%. It still isn’t dark enough for me. On sunny days, especially in the winter when the sun is low, you can see everything in my vehicle. I also don’t like the fact that the factory tint has a purple hue to it compared to the aftermarket tint with a green hue. It drives me crazy. When I get the time I’m going to run up to my tint guy to darken the rears.
Not sure what I’m going to do yet. I’m leaning towards 35% over 20% on the rears.
50% over 20% = 10%
35% over 20% = 7%
20% over 20% = 4%
5% over 20% = 1%
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04-09-2019, 10:52 AM
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#20
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Join Date: Feb 2019
Location: Phoenix AZ
Posts: 152
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Original poster here. So i went with 20% all around, but my decision was easier in that the pro tint shop i used had 20% as the lowest tint for 3M Crystalline, which is what i went with. They had 4 "brands/levels" with Crystalline being the 2nd to the most expensive. I picked it for heat rejection, and even did the windshield with 70%, although learned immediately that heat rejection is a load of marketing crap. Might make a separate post on this entirely.
Anyway, 20% over factory is NOT too dark on the rears, I can see fine at night. I would have even gone darker, so 18% is indeed a sweet spot, and I can even see 10% doable! 20% in the FRONT is perfect, albeit illegal where i am. But tint decisions are not just willy nilly, there is a safety aspect....you don't want to be driving in your suburban neighborhood and not be able to see around you. I also took the guy's advice as he has been tinting for 30 years: if you go too dark in the back (limo) it feels you are driving around in a closet. All that said, I guess I can't complain.
Last point is it was definitely not cheap. I took it to the best reviewed Tint shop in Phoenix and indeed they were great but it came to $1050 (3M Crystalline) for those pricing out. (4/19) including front windshield.
Last edited by rob_dixon; 04-09-2019 at 10:58 AM.
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04-09-2019, 11:04 AM
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#21
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Elite Member
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Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Pittsburgh
Posts: 5,689
Real Name: Chris
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Elite Member
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zw470
Are you guys sure the factory rear windows are 20%? Mine don't look anywhere near that dark
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I believe they are 30%
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2017 Nautical Blue SR5 Premium - Black Emblems, AFE 76mm TB, AFE Momentum GT Intake, URD MAF Calibrator, Borla Touring Cat-Back Exhaust, VR ECU Tune, RCI Skid Plate, Morimoto MLED 2.0 Headlight Retrofit, Morimoto LED Fogs, Eagle Eye Smoked Black Tail Lights, FyreFlys LED Interior, Meso Puddle Lights, Tinted Mirror Turn Signals, Smoked Amber Raptor Lights, Odyssey 34 Battery, 32" LED Bar with Rago Hidden Brackets, Rago Molle Panels, Side Shooter LED Ditch Lights, sPod w/ PowerTray, Raceline Matte Bronze Wheels w/ Cooper Discoverer RTX, CaliRaised Rock Sliders, BajaRack Full Length Roof Rack, Kenwood DMX1057XR, Infinity Kappa Door Speakers and 3.5's in dash, JL 8w3v3 in JBL Enclosure, Husky Weather Beaters, Blackvue DR900S Dash Cams
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04-09-2019, 11:13 AM
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#22
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Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: PA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 97BlackAckCL
I believe they are 30%
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I would buy that. Here's a picture of my Charger. Not a chance my factory 4Runner windows are only 2% lighter than this.
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04-09-2019, 11:27 AM
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#23
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Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Winnipeg, MB, Canada
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Legal limit for front sides here is 35%, I've always done the rear to match so it's easier to see out of at night, and the rear sides 20%.
Nothing worse than having to roll down windows to see where you're backing into, at least the rear window does roll down on these things, lol.
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'93 Toyota LandCruiser VX Ltd 4.2TD - 3X e-lockers, winch, factory fridge, 285/75/16E Duratracs, ICON Stage 1 3" lift, GTurbo Grunter Extreme
'04 Lexus GX470 Ultra Premium - Dobinsons 2F/1R lift, Tandem 612's w/ 265/70/17 Wildpeaks, XD HID lows
'15 Lexus GX460 - FJC 6-spokes w/ 265/65/17C Duratracs Weathertech HP & Canvasback liners
'15 4Runner Limited - 1" Cornfed level, 255/75/17SL Duratracs on FJC 8-holes, XD HID lows, Sprint Booster, Canvasbacks & Husky Liners - SOLD
'96 Toyota Hilux Surf SSR-G 3.0TD RIP - 265/75/16C Duratracs, '99 tall fronts, OME 906's rear
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04-09-2019, 11:28 AM
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#24
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Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Edmonton, AB, Canada
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 97BlackAckCL
I believe they are 30%
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Agreed. Factory is definitely not 20.
I thought it was 35 but I'm splitting hairs. I don't think I'd be able to tell the difference between 30 and 35 if they were not side by side.
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04-09-2019, 11:44 AM
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#25
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Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Washington State
Posts: 106
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the rear of a 4runner will measure out about 25% FVLT (final visible light transmission). Most people that install a 20% tint (not 15% or 18%) get the best results with matching the front 2 windows to the rear factory tint. IF, the 4runner had all clear glass, IF it did, and you installed the same film all the way around , except the windshield, the front 2 windows would appear to look lighter. This is do to the windshield letting in light into the front part of the 4runner. I explain it to a customer this way, "The further you go back in a cave, the darker it becomes."
A 25%-30% film matches the rear really well. It is easier to tell a true match by looking from inside to the outside if the tint really matches. If you would like your windows darker, I might suggest a 18%-15% on the 2 fronts and adding a 45% ( give or take a little on the percentage) to the rear of the 4runner. It will match really well front to rear.
Good luck to all.
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04-09-2019, 11:44 AM
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#26
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Join Date: Feb 2019
Location: sacramento CA
Posts: 34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rob_dixon
Original poster here. So i went with 20% all around, but my decision was easier in that the pro tint shop i used had 20% as the lowest tint for 3M Crystalline, which is what i went with. They had 4 "brands/levels" with Crystalline being the 2nd to the most expensive. I picked it for heat rejection, and even did the windshield with 70%, although learned immediately that heat rejection is a load of marketing crap. Might make a separate post on this entirely.
Anyway, 20% over factory is NOT too dark on the rears, I can see fine at night. I would have even gone darker, so 18% is indeed a sweet spot, and I can even see 10% doable! 20% in the FRONT is perfect, albeit illegal where i am. But tint decisions are not just willy nilly, there is a safety aspect....you don't want to be driving in your suburban neighborhood and not be able to see around you. I also took the guy's advice as he has been tinting for 30 years: if you go too dark in the back (limo) it feels you are driving around in a closet. All that said, I guess I can't complain.
Last point is it was definitely not cheap. I took it to the best reviewed Tint shop in Phoenix and indeed they were great but it came to $1050 (3M Crystalline) for those pricing out. (4/19) including front windshield.
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please either post here or separately regarding the marketing crap of the heat rejection... im about to get my windows tinted and would love to hear your thoughts on the topic
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04-09-2019, 02:03 PM
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#27
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Join Date: Feb 2019
Location: Phoenix AZ
Posts: 152
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Location: Phoenix AZ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mashalatheballa
please either post here or separately regarding the marketing crap of the heat rejection... im about to get my windows tinted and would love to hear your thoughts on the topic
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Sure man.
Save your money. I am going to call this "The big Tint lie"
This has to do with science I am very curious about. I get it. I do. But here is the marketing: "Light tint rejects 60% of solar energy and up to 97% of heat-producing infrared rays for the ultimate in comfort." "Reject heat" cooler car, etc.
In the installer, they have an infrared light behind the various tints. You press the button and feel the heat (or lack of) behind the tint. 100% convincing. This is REAL - your hand does not lie.
But in function, and in the science behind how heat actually builds up in a vehicle, it is 100% BS.
After tint, my truck is seemingly not 1 degree cooler than prior to tint. I am not one to fall for placebo affect easily. So I did a search and found some guy ran an actual experiment which proved my suspicions in a Tesla.
Experiment: 3M Crystalline Tint Makes ZERO Difference in Cabin Temp | Tesla
So basically I just spent just over $1K to have darker windows which I could have done for $350. I was expecting a significant different in temperatures. THAT WAS THE WHOLE POINT of paying premium.
If anyone can find another real world dispute of this (or explain) I'd love to see it. And before you say TIME may be a factor, I am talking literally minutes here in Phoenix before its intolerable, same as before - and it was only 82-85 yesterday. AND keep in mind compared to many vehicles our windshield angle to the sun is much LESS horizontal than most.
I'd love to see the industry have real world measurements in addition to all current stats: A chart of Degrees raised over time (e.g. 30 minutes) on a standard industry platform. But that might mean we see this "alleged" BS, so don't expect that. But I am just 1 guy.
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Last edited by rob_dixon; 04-09-2019 at 02:10 PM.
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04-09-2019, 02:48 PM
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#28
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Join Date: Feb 2019
Location: sacramento CA
Posts: 34
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Join Date: Feb 2019
Location: sacramento CA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rob_dixon
Sure man.
Save your money. I am going to call this "The big Tint lie"
This has to do with science I am very curious about. I get it. I do. But here is the marketing: "Light tint rejects 60% of solar energy and up to 97% of heat-producing infrared rays for the ultimate in comfort." "Reject heat" cooler car, etc.
In the installer, they have an infrared light behind the various tints. You press the button and feel the heat (or lack of) behind the tint. 100% convincing. This is REAL - your hand does not lie.
But in function, and in the science behind how heat actually builds up in a vehicle, it is 100% BS.
After tint, my truck is seemingly not 1 degree cooler than prior to tint. I am not one to fall for placebo affect easily. So I did a search and found some guy ran an actual experiment which proved my suspicions in a Tesla.
Experiment: 3M Crystalline Tint Makes ZERO Difference in Cabin Temp | Tesla
So basically I just spent just over $1K to have darker windows which I could have done for $350. I was expecting a significant different in temperatures. THAT WAS THE WHOLE POINT of paying premium.
If anyone can find another real world dispute of this (or explain) I'd love to see it. And before you say TIME may be a factor, I am talking literally minutes here in Phoenix before its intolerable, same as before - and it was only 82-85 yesterday. AND keep in mind compared to many vehicles our windshield angle to the sun is much LESS horizontal than most.
I'd love to see the industry have real world measurements in addition to all current stats: A chart of Degrees raised over time (e.g. 30 minutes) on a standard industry platform. But that might mean we see this "alleged" BS, so don't expect that. But I am just 1 guy.
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Thanks for your input. I read the link you posted and while the initial experiment was decently thought out, there were a couple things missing.
One- the windshield was not tinted which as we all know, permits the most amount of light and heat into the car (depending on angle of the sun).
Two- the model 3 already has IR rejection built into their side windows so tinting those windows wouldn't really help too much with that specific car.
Three- there is a problem with the assumption of the experiment to begin with: that tinted car should be cooler after x # of time. While that assumption might be true for a short period of time, it isnt going to be true for an indefinite period of time. For example, you bring out both cars (tinted and untinted) and let them sit in the sun for 5 or 10 minutes. The tinted car should in fact be a bit cooler inside than the untinted one (assumed no IR rejection built in the glass already). However, if you let both cars sit in the sun all day, eventually both cars will be the same temperature inside. The takeaway is that perhaps the untinted car will take lets say an 60 minutes to get to maximum cabin temperature, the tinted car might take 75 minutes to get max temp.
so all in all, i don't think you actually wasted your money. what do you guys think?
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04-09-2019, 03:00 PM
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#29
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Junior Member
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Join Date: Apr 2019
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Join Date: Apr 2019
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I went to get my windows tinted for
My 5th gen 4Runner but the guy wasn’t able To do it, he said that the dealer tint had 2 layers wich made it impossible
To Do the ceramic tinting. He tried several time But it wouldn’t stay. Any suggestions .
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04-09-2019, 03:08 PM
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#30
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Member
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Join Date: Apr 2018
Location: Massachusetts
Posts: 431
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Join Date: Apr 2018
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mashalatheballa
Thanks for your input. I read the link you posted and while the initial experiment was decently thought out, there were a couple things missing.
One- the windshield was not tinted which as we all know, permits the most amount of light and heat into the car (depending on angle of the sun).
Two- the model 3 already has IR rejection built into their side windows so tinting those windows wouldn't really help too much with that specific car.
Three- there is a problem with the assumption of the experiment to begin with: that tinted car should be cooler after x # of time. While that assumption might be true for a short period of time, it isnt going to be true for an indefinite period of time. For example, you bring out both cars (tinted and untinted) and let them sit in the sun for 5 or 10 minutes. The tinted car should in fact be a bit cooler inside than the untinted one (assumed no IR rejection built in the glass already). However, if you let both cars sit in the sun all day, eventually both cars will be the same temperature inside. The takeaway is that perhaps the untinted car will take lets say an 60 minutes to get to maximum cabin temperature, the tinted car might take 75 minutes to get max temp.
so all in all, i don't think you actually wasted your money. what do you guys think?
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I too dont think its wasted money. I too have the 3m premium film and noticed an immediate difference. The only thing is I was not expecting the car to be cooler parked in the sun, rather the heat transmitted though the windows has been drastically reduced when in the car. Basically, I dont get as hot sitting in my car when its sunny. It was a big difference for me especially in the Summer. I dont have to crank the AC as hard to keep the car cool. So I think it was worth it. But seriously, Phoenix is like the surface of the sun hot so not much will help. My .02.
In Phoenix, well maybe one of these will help.
Lanmodo Portable Auto Car Umbrella (I'm not serious )
Last edited by 4runr4eva; 04-09-2019 at 03:11 PM.
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