Agreed 100%. The brakes were never great, at best they were just ok. Just had the fronts replaced (with factory pads and rotors) thinking it would help, nope the pedal actually feels a lot worse now. I brought it back in saying there was air in the lines, and they begrudgingly re-flushed the brake lines, but the pedal feel still sucks! I will change the rears myself shortly with new pads and rotors hoping for some improvement, at least a slightly higher pedal height. Otherwise I will be looking for stainless steel brake lines too in the near future.

FYI my Camry had really shitty brakes too. WTF Toyota!?

Stainless braided brake lines, and Castrol SRF DOT 4 brake fluid should give a firm pedal.

I tracked my 14 Mustang GT on a road course in HPDE track days multiple times a year from October 2016 to February 2019.

You know what I never saw on a single daily driven track car, or high end race cars? blank rotors.(non slotted or drilled)

Nearly EVERYONE uses a 2pc floating rotor with an aluminum hat, and the rings are slotted, or cross drilled, or both. Why? Because they are an effective heat sink. Blank rotors crack in a few laps because they absorb heat and cannot get rid of it efficiently. Whish is why slotted rotors, and 2pc rotors exist.

My 14 GT had slotted rotors, and I used G-LOC R12 race compound pads at the track, and G-Loc GS-1 pads on the street which are a compound for autocross that work from ambient temp to 1,200.

It is proven that street style performance brake pad will out perform OEM style pads in almost every single way (except maybe dust).

Please stop spreading misinformation, someone may need this thread in the future.

I've hit 57k on my stock brakes. I was impressed with how long these OEM pads have lasted. I check them recently and feel like I should replace them before my Colorado trip next month. No squeaking but better safe than sorry, I guess.

Hard to stray away from the OEM pads and the rotors shouldn't need replacing unless you are getting some bad pedal vibration. Even then, getting the rotors turned will fix that.

ACT976 and ACT 606

ive had the slotted stoptech kit with pads in my cart all week... Dealership mentioned I need replacements.

I had stoptechs on my bmw and past cars and loved them.

What kind/brand of brake lube is everyone using? I haven't had a lot of luck with brake lube (for greasing the slide pins etc...). Either it dries out or swells the rubber seals. I was thinking of using this next:

Permatex 24129 Silicone Ceramic Extreme Brake Parts Lubricant

Thanks.

lube attracts dirt, which causes issues.

I have never used lube on the back of brake pads, or slide pins. Never once had an issue. I have never seen anyone, or heard of anyone at the race track using lube on slide pins either.

Misinformation?? Take your rookie Mustang back to your 2 car garage and come with me in the pits to some National level pro events with multi million dollar sponsorships. Next you're going to tell me you can't use anything but 0-20 oil in a 5th gen.

Yes....let the butthurt flow through you.

They come lubed though from the factory. The dealer uses lube on the slide pins too during servicing. Do you mean you don't touch them up during servicing? Or there is no lube on your slide pins at all?

FYI I don't lubricate the back of the pads or spring clips etc... either.

I have 145K on my 2014 ORP and am still on stock rotors/pads. Last service (140K), my pads were still in the yellow zone.

That said, I am starting to look at options for replacement, to perhaps improve overall braking capability.

Drilled rotors are much more prone to cracking.

sounds like some lube will be needed for that butthurt

Same brakes, two different vehicles with substantial weight difference between them. Comparing them is apples to oranges. Frankly, the 4Runner brakes are pretty damn good.

I have a 1999 K2500 4wd Diesel Suburban and the vehicle was horribly under braked. Pads on the front would wear out within 15K to 20K when driving up and down to our 2nd home up at Big Bear Lake (6,750'). I did a conversion to the next generation GM trucks front brakes with giant dual piston calipers and giant pads. Raybestos Advanced technology slotted rotors and Advanced Technology pads. Night and day difference in stopping power and pad wear.

On the 2014 4Runner the OEM Rotors warped at about 80K. I put Power Stop Extreme Performance drilled and slotted on the front of the 2014 4Runner. They warped within 20K miles. That said, I've had great success with Power Stop drilled and slotted on my Honda Accord, replacing cracked OEM rotors.

I installed AC Delco Severe Duty non-slotted on the 4Runner, only because the slotted were not available at Rockauto (BTW Raybestos Advanced Technology are the same rotor, same manufacturer) and they're still going strong with about 70K miles of use and no warping. These are the only rotors I recommend and were using the vehicle on extreme mountain grades where substandard rotors constantly warp under my wife's driving.

I always use Raybestos Advanced Technology pads.