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Old 06-07-2019, 11:55 AM #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CutthroatSlam View Post
Drilled rotors are much more prone to cracking.

That is correct, yet they are still more common than blank rotors on the track.
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Old 06-07-2019, 11:58 AM #32
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Originally Posted by CutthroatSlam View Post
Same brakes, two different vehicles with substantial weight difference between them. Comparing them is apples to oranges. Frankly, the 4Runner brakes are pretty damn good.


When the OEM Rotors warped at about 80K, I put Power Stop Extreme Performance drilled and slotted on the front of the 2014 4Runner. They warped within 20K miles. That said, I've had great success with Power Stop drilled and slotted on my Honda Accord, replacing cracked OEM rotors.

I installed AC Delco Severe Duty non-slotted on the 4Runner, only because the slotted were not available at Rockauto (BTW Raybestos Advanced Technology are the same rotor, same manufacturer) and they're still going strong with about 70K miles of use and no warping. These are the only rotors I recommend and were using the vehicle on extreme mountain grades where substandard rotors constantly warp under my wife's driving.

How does the vehicles weight translate to pedal feel?

Isn't there only 200lbs +/- difference between the two vehicles? That wouldn't be enough weight difference to see the kind of difference I feel between a brand new 2019 4Runner with 500 miles, and a 2018 Tacoma with 13k miles.


Frankly, the 4Runner brakes are garbage.
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Old 06-07-2019, 12:09 PM #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GripT4R View Post
How does the vehicles weight translate to pedal feel?

Isn't there only 200lbs +/- difference between the two vehicles? That wouldn't be enough weight difference to see the kind of difference I feel between a brand new 2019 4Runner with 500 miles, and a 2018 Tacoma with 13k miles.


Frankly, the 4Runner brakes are garbage.
You've been proven to not know what you're talking about.
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Old 06-07-2019, 12:37 PM #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CutthroatSlam View Post
You've been proven to not know what you're talking about.
Explain to me how a 200lb +/- weight difference between two trucks translates to a firmer pedal feel in the lighter truck, and a softer pedal in the heavier truck.

So you are telling me if I put a 200lb passenger in the lighter truck, the pedal will be softer?


Magically the hydraulic system will change due to a weight difference....


You've proven nothing...
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Old 06-07-2019, 01:01 PM #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GripT4R View Post
That is correct, yet they are still more common than blank rotors on the track.
I don't see a lot of 4Runners on the track. Different use case and many of those cars were designed with drilled rotors.

I was not happy with stock pads, as I had what felt like warped rotors early on in their life, and was most likely uneven pad deposits on the rotors. I am happy with the Akebonos and Centric rotors after about 10,000 miles which includes about 1,000 miles of towing a race car which weighs 5,000# on a trailer.
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Old 06-07-2019, 01:25 PM #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rb92673 View Post
I don't see a lot of 4Runners on the track. Different use case and many of those cars were designed with drilled rotors.

I was not happy with stock pads, as I had what felt like warped rotors early on in their life, and was most likely uneven pad deposits on the rotors. I am happy with the Akebonos and Centric rotors after about 10,000 miles which includes about 1,000 miles of towing a race car which weighs 5,000# on a trailer.
Thanks, but I think you may have missed the first half of the discussion.
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Old 06-07-2019, 01:56 PM #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GripT4R View Post
Thanks, but I think you may have missed the first half of the discussion.
Not trying to start a flame war here and I am not trying to attack you.

There is nothing wrong with blank rotors. My 24 Hours of Lemons race car and many dedicated race cars do just fine on solid vented rotors. I have done 24 hours straight multiple times without cracking a rotor. These races eat through normal pads like crazy and generate tons of heat, real race pads and race brake fluid are required.

Most of the times I have seen cracked rotors at races is when drilled rotors have been used on a car that originally came with blank rotors. This car is less than 3000# and 30+ years old, it does not go off road and it does not tow, so it is not a fair comparison to a 4Runner.

When I tow I worry about heat buildup going down grades in the 4Runner. I have never felt any fade with the stock brakes or the Akebono/Centric combo. Time will tell if this combo will last as long or longer than stock, which was less than 45,000 miles for me. I have never cared for the pedal feel either.

I have no experience with slotted combo or similar that you have suggested. Please try them and report back to the community your experience with them. Lot's of people like Stop Tech and Hawk, they seem like a good product. I am going to guess that it will not change the pedal feel much as I think most of that comes from the brake booster.
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Old 06-07-2019, 02:18 PM #38
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Speaking of drilled rotors... the ones you get off the shelf (online) are garbage compared to what real race cars use which are ones built at the molecular level (carbon) and the holes are formed with the rotor (no drilling involved). Drilled rotors tend to crack at the holes, why real race cars don't use "drilled" rotors.
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Old 06-07-2019, 02:49 PM #39
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I just did mine. New Raybestos calipers on the front, Akebono pads front, Wagner semi metallics rear. Centric rotors all around. Stops much more consistently than stock. No more of that crap where the brakes all of a sudden kick in at 1/2 pedal semi-panic stop and the ABS does too.
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Old 06-07-2019, 04:36 PM #40
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These Rotors:

More Information for RAYBESTOS 980160PER

More Information for ACDELCO 18A1615SD

These Pads:

More Information for RAYBESTOS SP976TRH

I'm sure Akebono's are fine, but I will note that the firm is currently in the Japanese form of bankruptcy reorganization. They lost their contract with GM which accounted for 1/3 of their revenue.
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Old 06-07-2019, 04:41 PM #41
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Before and after pics of my GMT 400 to GMT 800 brake conversion on my Suburban.
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Brake pad and rotor replacement that I recommend....-gmt-400-brakes-jpg  Brake pad and rotor replacement that I recommend....-gmt-800-brakes-ps-jpg  Brake pad and rotor replacement that I recommend....-gmt-800-brakes-jpg 
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Old 02-16-2022, 01:28 PM #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Texas_Ranger View Post
I replaced my rotors and pads 2 weeks ago and wanted to share my experience with my choices and results. I purchased AKEBONO pads all around and Centric Premium rotors. These have made a world of difference in comparison to stock pads and rotors. The brakes have a nice bite to them and have very consistent braking pressure while increasing brake pedal pressure. The stock brakes felt that they were soft with a 20% to 50% brake pedal push. So if your changing them, these worked wonders. These were from rock auto.com
I'm due for a brake change, how did this combo hold up?

Only asking cause I just warped my OEM rotors with Akebono pads.

I have used centric rotors before but they rusted and I hated that look. Also, these aren't that much cheaper than OEM so might just go back to that if the longevity/reliability isn't great.

Thanks!
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Old 02-16-2022, 03:02 PM #43
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For those who still believe real racer use slotted or drilled rotors:

Le Mans endurance racing Audi R8:



Indi:



Formula 1 (carbon fiber though):



Dakar Hilux trucks have solid rotors: no pic of that sry.
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