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Old 04-22-2020, 09:03 PM #16
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Only place I feel needs the sound blocked is the rear from the TRD exhaust.
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Old 04-23-2020, 10:34 AM #17
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Most of what I'm applying is based on the information gleaned from the Sound Deadener Showdown (SDS) website, which still exists, but no longer selling anything. I had to source everything myself. Not a big deal.

One thing I wrestled with was SDS and other websites say it is a waste of time to put CDLs on top of the factory deadener. I disagree I still followed their formula for 25% coverage and disregarded the omission of CDL on top of factory deadener.

The other part that is kind of a bummer to OCD people like me is that there is no 'perfection' with this process. In fact, there's a lot of give-and-take and mostly compromise. For instance, the carpet has these plastic rails that have supports that extend inward from the sills about an inch from the clips. That meant I would have less coverage than I wanted with the MLV. I had to cut an inch off to allow for proper fitment of the carpet.

Also, you will have to do A LOT of 'test fitting' of your parts with the factory parts if you want it all to go back together again like factory. That means pulling the carpet out, fitting and trimming your CCF/MLF, putting the carpet back, pulling it out, adjusting CCF/MLF again, putting the carpet back again.

For the driver footwell, I had to remove MLV from under the left styrofoam footrest and since the firewall already has factory MLV, adding CCF and MLV on top only made the factory carpet not fit correctly. So I cut out too.

Oh, and I had to make cutouts for the seat mounts, so I just traced the carpet holes so the seats would fit like factory. Test-fitted everything. Over and over.

Again, an exercise in what is 'good enough.'


Some pics here
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Carpet removal and MLV install help request-roof_blank-jpg  Carpet removal and MLV install help request-roof_cdl-jpg  Carpet removal and MLV install help request-floor_blank1-jpg  Carpet removal and MLV install help request-floor_blank2-jpg  Carpet removal and MLV install help request-floor_cdl-jpg  Carpet removal and MLV install help request-passenger_floor_seat-jpg 
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Old 04-23-2020, 10:36 AM #18
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Carpet removal and MLV install help request-driver_seat_bottom-jpg  Carpet removal and MLV install help request-trans_tunnel_rear-jpg  Carpet removal and MLV install help request-driver_floor_seat_trans_tunnel-jpg  Carpet removal and MLV install help request-driver_door_sill-jpg  Carpet removal and MLV install help request-driver_floor_pedals-jpg  Carpet removal and MLV install help request-carpet_bottom1-jpg  Carpet removal and MLV install help request-carpet_track-jpg 
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Old 04-23-2020, 12:58 PM #19
Obi Wong Kenobi Obi Wong Kenobi is offline
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That’s impressive. Looks like a multi day project for sure! Have you put it all back together and seem a big difference in noise?
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Old 04-23-2020, 01:06 PM #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Obi Wong Kenobi View Post
That’s impressive. Looks like a multi day project for sure! Have you put it all back together and seem a big difference in noise?
Multi-day for sure! [Un]fortunately thanks to COVID-19.

No, the pictures depict current status.

I just finished the 2/3rds of the trans tunnel and the driver-side floor. Next are the front passenger and last 1/3rd of the trans tunnel. That way, if I do have to go somewhere, I can at least have all airbags plugged in. The rest can stay disassembled if necessary.

Not sure about the legality of driving with interior parts removed, but I don't believe it would be illegal?
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Old 04-23-2020, 01:28 PM #21
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Tips for the headliner:

It's a bit of a pain to fully disconnect the headliner. There are about 5 connections in the back near the liftgate. The 3 electrical connectors on the passenger side are basic tab press and pull to disconnect. On the rear driver side, there is a ground bolt and a connection to the rear window grid antenna you can just wiggle and pull. Disconnect all 5 before dropping the headliner.

If you do hydrophobic melamine foam as a sound absorber for the roof like I did, I recommend some sort of spray adhesive if your foam didn't come with adhesive. I cheaper out and got non-adhesive. I had to quickly go around and tack it up with a hot glue gun (last glue stick in the house) and then before they broke loose, but the headliner back up. I didn't feel I had time to take a picture, unfortunately. That's why that part is not documented.

Go around the headliner removing the oh-crap handles, the hanger hooks, overhead console, the sun visors, A-, B-, C-, and D-pillars. leave the center dome lamp for last. Also, the rear side windows have a trim piece that holds up the headliner just leave those on as extra supports for easy removal and reinstall of the headliner.

It's best to have another person there when you drop the headliner. to see where any connections/wires are hanging up or not.

TL;DR:

So I left the front airbag connectors connected. They intentionally make it hard to disconnect them, so I didn't. I disconnected the rear connections and dropped that end to the floor. The front of the headliner was held up by the steering wheel and a box on the dash to hold up the other end.

It's a pain to work with the headliner taking up the interior space, but manageable.
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